Machias_Mike

Amazon stator and gasket came today. Gasket was in a weird perforated vaccum sealed thing. Ripped it trying to get it out but it luckily was on the top so used a bit of gasket seal. No oil in pull starter casing, 20-30 drops in the part of the case with stator. hardest part was scraping old gasket off of bottom part, required lots of patience (red circle) The new amazon stator didnt line up. The 'wire keeper' screw was in wrong hole (see pic before i moved to the hole to the right), moved it to open hole to the right. It fit but still didnt sit flush (theres a 'slot' for it on the cover). Removed screw and it fit. Prob not the best solution but with 3 screws in stator and the 2 pickup screws holding the stator wires im not sure there is way for the wires to come loose. didnt use the included pickup and wire, kept original. Other than that it lined right up. Wires were correct length and grommets fit tight in case, 3 wire electric plug fit (came with female end so you could replace that too but didnt use). Now showing 13.5v - 13.2v when reved up (was 13.1v - 12.5v) Ac 35v - 60v across all 3 wires (low was 15v on 2 of them before) .8 across all 3 wires (2 showed OL before) Time will tell if it fixes the issue but at least i still got the original 30 yo stator to throw back in.

Thanks for the replies. It seems the stator is failing. Its really more of an annoyance than anything but hoping to have the time in the next week or two to replace stator. Thinking of going with one from amazon. Reviews look pretty good and $45 for a stator and gasket with 4.5 star reviews. Seems like a no brainer, am I wrong to try it?

Readings are stator unplugged near near pull starter. The ohm readings say two of the three legs of stator are bad based on the manual (.1 - .7 ohms is good). Does the combination of the OL on the two legs and lower voltage the same two mean its going bad? It still has voltage but shouldnt they all be the same?

Battery is less than a year old but is an amazon weize brand. Seems to work ok. I can use the winch quite a bit with the atv off before the battery is too dead to crank. The only symptom seems to be that the charging system only puts out enough to just keep battery at whatever charge it is already at but never seems to have a net gain even after running for a while if that makes sense. Maybe my expectations are too high and im just used to my yami 9.9 outboard that seems to be able to run two downriggers pretty much constantly as well as electronics while charging battery trolling around at 850 rpms. I did try keeping the machine running while using winch and it seemed to help a little but hate to have the atv idling for so long. Checking AC on battery shows .06 volts.

Hi all, Just looking for a second opinion before I start ordering parts. It looks like from the below tests it must be a failing stator. Background - quad runs fine but when I use winch it will drain battery, I can then pull start but even after running for 20 mins if I turn it off, battery still dead and does not seem to get charged at all. Voltage at battery after charging using trickle charger is 12.5. Start up and voltage shows 13.1 at idle, if I rev it up voltage drops to 12.5. LED lights also flicker at night even with fully charged battery. Really more annoying than anything and if it is stator I prob will not change until it becomes more of an issue or maybe during next oil change. Thanks for looking, appreciate any replies! Stator plug and letters show how I tested. [ ] A [ ] B C [ ] Checked resistance on stator (manual says .1 to .7) A = .7 B = OL C= OL Voltage idle and 3/4 throttle A = 31/55 B = 15/33 C = 15/32

Just thought I'd throw this out there. Been wanting a water resistant box for my machine but googling it came up with a ton of really expensive things. Not sure why I never thought of this before. Bought a craftsman toolbox from lowes for $10. drilled a couple holes in it and ziptied it to existing rack. Super solid and works like a champ!! The other mesh basket was something i bought on amazon for a bicycle, lol.

Just want to close the loop on this. My machine has been back up and for 4 days with no issues. Reverse works as intended and when I am moving I can confidently downshift without worrying it will go into reverse while moving. Yup the little knob kind of sucks when you want to quickly go into reverse but totally worth it to know the machine is safe. I will add for anyone else that is looking for a gasket for this that I ended up buying both gaskets and found although the below part numbers are different and show for different years on the parts diagram THEY ARE IDENTICAL. You can use either of these gaskets on a 1994 klf300c 4x4 GEAR CASE (bevel gear/sub transmission) 11060-1229 (early-98) 11060-1714 (99-up)

So ebay used parts came today. A lot of extra parts for reverse knob system but the ones I needed were in there and seemed to fit. Ordered on Tuesday, delivered on Thursday! HOLDER,NEUTRAL SWITCH 13091-1443 PIN 92043-1287 SPRING 92081-1763 Got them installed and it seems to work as it should, no way to really tell until I get the gasket and put it back together. Partzilla still sitting on my order... Says "Available 4/1." At this point i cancelled all the items but the bevel gear gasket. I just ordered it on ebay as well so prob be here before partzilla even ships it. They wont get any more of my business. Totally BS that they show items in stock when they are not. Much easier, faster and cheaper to order on ebay at this point. I guess we'll see in the future if I need something but at this point they are not going to be the first place I look.

Well bad news from partzilla. They said “HOLDER,NEUTRAL SWITCH 13091-1443” is on back order with no eta. I called them and they said mfg has none and they may come but I should look on eBay. Looked on eBay while on the phone and found a single new one. Guess who the seller was.. partzilla. I asked the rep how they could be selling the same item on eBay if they don’t physically have it and they really did not have a response. That’s a pretty shitty practice if you ask me and I would totally give bad feedback if I ordered it from there and they could not meet “expected delivery”. Anyhow, found the last used one (combined with a lot of other parts I don’t need) on eBay for $45 and ordered so there is still some hope. Quad is in pieces in the middle of the garage waiting on ground shipping

Another thing i will add is you have to remove the nut on the bevel gear to get the bevel gear bearing holder out as the gasket goes behind it. I tried to 'hold' the gear and remove it (for about a half hour) with a breaker bar and screwdriver in the teeth of the gear. Finally i was like, "maybe i should try an impact wrench". It came right off with the impact. I didnt hose up any of the gears but was close with the amount of torque that thing is on with. The book suggests removing the right side of the case and holding the primary and secondary gears with a $100 'gear holder, special tool'. Luckily the impact worked and I did not have to dig into the right side. The break is in line with the both of the machined holes (or maybe it is cast) in the piece. Must just be the weak point and i can see how if you were really mashing on it into reverse without turning the knob that it puts a lot of pressure on that area.

Got my book yesterday and decided to dive in. This is def not something someone not mechanically inclined should attempt. I probably had to remove 75 nuts and bolts to get the bevel gear off. The front driveshaft (propeller) came right off. The rear required putting a jack under the motor and then removing the lower trailing arm mount and upper shock mount. I could then move the left tire and left side of the rear back and was able to get rear driveshaft out. Saw on a youtube video that the its easier to remove motor mounting bolts and move motor forward an inch to get the bevel gear off. Def a good idea to get a piece of cardboard and punch holes in it and put the bolts in so you know where they go during assembly. As far as manuevering the motor to get the bevel gear out I had to remove the skid plate, put a jack under the motor, remove all motor mounts and then lift the motor about a half inch. I then took a spreader clamp and pushed the motor forward about 3/4 inch and was able to jimmy the bevel gear case off. I also had to tap the bevel gear with a wood dowel on the top and bottom (from the other side) to get the gasket to break loose. Pic 1 is of front and rear driveshaft removed, motor mounts removed and all (most) bolts out of bevel gear. Pic 2 is of bevel gear case removed Pic 3 if of 'reverse stopper' behind the neutral/reverse switch. As you can see the stopper is broke in half. Looking at the exploded parts view I was also missing the pin and spring that go with it. The must have fell out and went out with a previous oil change as I could not find them. Pic 4 is a close up of the broken reverse stopper. Here is a parts list of what I think i need and ordered yesterday HOLDER,NEUTRAL SWITCH 13091-1443 PIN 92043-1287 SPRING 92081-1763 GASKET,GEAR CASE (early-98) 11060-1229 OR 11060-1714 (99-up) I could not find 11060-1229 so I ordered 11060-1714. Im hoping they are the same through the years, partzilla shows a different part number for klf300c up to 1998 and then a different one for 1999 and on. I looked at about 50 side by side pics before I said screw it and ordered. Will know if it fits hopefully sometime next week. Hoping this fixes all the issues I first stated and the machine is safe after this (albeit with the annoyance of having to use the reverse knob). More to come!

MarkinAR, Thanks for the reply, I do appreciate the input but for a newb like me this is really an annoying thing and a safety issue. The real issue I have is that there is no neutral most of the time. It goes from 1st directly to reverse. i.e. I think I am in second (but actually in first) and go to downshift to first and it throws it into reverse. Its actually really hard to 'find' neutral as you have to go all the way to reverse and barely lift up, almost like a half kick, any more and it goes into first. Still havent decided 100% that i am going to dig into it as it looks like both front end, rear end, exhaust and engine all need to be loosened to get the bevel gear cover off but its really something i would prefer to have working. If its something i can do in a weekend I think its worth it. Still having major trouble finding the gasket though. None of the online diagrams i see for the 300 4x4 have the gasket shown as far as I can see.

Hi there! We just bought 4 acres and needed a work rig for moving stuff around and blazing trails. Been looking at buying a quad for a long time and finally got the opportunity. Found a very good condition 1994 Kawi Bayou 300 4x4. Runs great and seems to be in great operating condition with one little thing. The unit seems to have an issue with reverse. Previous owner did tell me about it and its totally usable but the issue is annoying enough that I want to try and fix it. Im pretty mechanical oriented so don’t think this will (hopefully) be too much of an issue. I bought the kawasaki shop manual on ebay and should be here next Friday but wanted to get a head start on it. The issue seems to be similar to this post but I think may be more mechanical than just the switch. https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14281-1994-bayou-220-neutral-safety-switch/ Here goes! Neutral light is always on when key in on position I found that the green wire coming out of the block from neutral switch is grounded to chassis. When plugged in to switch light never turns on no matter what gear its in (and wont start). Machine can go from 1st directly into Reverse if you don’t feather it. This is the part that that makes me want to fix it. I feel like its dangerous and could possibly do some damage. It usually takes 3-4 tries to 'find' neutral. The reverse turn knob seems to be operable and cable is connected and operates the reverse 'selector' when turned. Springs back when released both at the switch and at the 'selector' inboard of the shifter. When in reverse the red reverse light does not illuminate Based on above and looking at the post above it seems that this would indicate that the reverse stopper is 'broken' and rotated in an 'in gear' position. I see a few posts on here where people have said it can crack. If I plug the green wire back in and turn machine to 'on' I can move the shifter through all gears and the neutral light and reverse light stay off. Again, to me it seems that the 'reverse stopper' is probably broken, stuck where the switch thinks its in a forward gear and the shaft is probably just spinning inside it. Am I on the right track here? I wanted to get a head start on this and looking at parts diagrams it looks like the part number for the 'reverse stopper' is 13091-1443, found one on ebay for $30 shipped. I hate buying parts before tearing it down but if this is the likely culprit I would take a $30 gamble to buy it so I can have it on hand when the manual arrives. The other question I have which I hope is an easy answer is none of the parts diagrams I have found show the bevel gear gasket part number. Can anyone tell me what the part number is for this? Many, many thanks for the info and I promise to post pics once I have it apart.