pastorjeep

I have not been able to look at it this last week. Hopefully I can do some more test that you guys suggested in a day or two. Thanks

The orange wire has continuity and 1 ohm. I will test the signal on the CDI pin in the morning.

Yes, I tried both regular AC volts, and AC milli-volts and get nothing. Also tried DC volts just for the fun of it but manual says AC.

Yep, that is what I am talking about. Look in my picture and you will see 3 in the upper left corner.

I have 3 coils (photo above) and tested all three. The primary on all 3 was 0.01 so I think my auto ranging fluke was ranging in the 200k setting. The secondary coil was between 6 and 9k on each of them. It looks like they are good. Thanks for the straight forward questions. It is helpful to go through the basics step by step.

The stator is installed and it is producing about a 1/2 volt AC. The 1999-2001 Bear Tracker wiring is different from the 2002-2004 like mine. I will check the wiring on the switch. Thanks

Thanks for the input. The pickup coil has a range of 197-231 in the manual and mine is at 218, my primary coil is at .2. So according to the manual they are both in spec. I also checked AC voltage and it was in spec for another page I read. I am getting nothing at the orange wire going to the coil primary. I put my fluke on AC milli volts and get nothing. So no signal from the CDI? I have an original CDI and a fleabay CDI. What are the chances both are bad?

Need a little help fixing a no spark issue. 2002 BT with the 2 wire ignition switch. I have 4 stators and 2 CDI's and 3 coils to test. The new stator reads 218 ohm, and .2 ohm, the one that came out of it reads 50K and .2, the other is 132 and .2. All of the coils are 0.00 ohm, and there is no way to test the CDI that I know. I have also confirmed the replacement stator pins match the factory locations. I did try to test milli-volts at the coil to see if it was getting any signal from the CDI but nope. IDEAS?

I ended up needing to put new one way bearings in the clutch and starter. It runs great even though the counter shaft stills sounds crunchy.

I got the engine broke free and I am going to fill the crankcase to the top with gasoline and let it sit for a day and then drain it before putting oil in. I am struggling with a flare up of diverticulitis right now and can only work for short spurts. Hopefully Monday I will get the swingarm installed and get the wiring straightened out and try to get spark and maybe a first start. 🙏

Ok guys, I am a glutton for punishment! I picked up this 01 2wd Rancher because the plastics looked good on the marketplace. It has been sitting in the guys back yard for 10 years. The original engine blew and they swapped in an electric shift 4x4 engine. 😒The engine is locked up and was full of water. The wiring is hacked where they tried to get it to run and the rear end needs new swingarm bearings where they left it laying on the ground in the woods for 10 years. Has anyone here ever did the engine swap? First thing is to straighten out the wiring and get the engine free to see if I can get it to crank over. I have swingarm bearings ordered and a new ignition switch. So hopefully I can at least roll it around soon. 🤣

In the video I am reaching down and shifting by hand. The speedo goes up to 4-8mph while revving. I ordered the bypass in this video.

Thanks for the encouragement. I decided to just buy the ECM bypass shift kit. For only $20 it was worth trying. It will retain the push button shifting and the only down side seems to be harsh shifting if you don't come completely off the throttle. Plastics have been cleaned, racks sanded and painted, all the lights working, and a new seat cover. It was missing the fuel tank and used ones are $200, which is what I paid for the quad. So I just installed a little one I had from a 110cc chinese machine. I will probably end up selling this as a running parts machine or someone could pop for some new front palstics and a fuel tank and have a decent Rancher. Question: Why would the speedometer show MPH going up while revving in neutral? I thought the speedo was tied to the speed sensor on the output shaft?

499aec99-4f5d-40e8-afa5-bf19507b95b1.mp4 3a74ae66-9aac-4645-b7e3-60f41f412795.mp4

It seems that the ECU may be bad. When i turn the key to the on position the gear indicator blinks five times. It I do the test procedure (hold buttons, turn key on, release buttons, press and hold buttons for 3 seconds) I get 1 blink, five blinks, and five blinks which I am interpreting to be code 11. That is the test procedure, but when I simply turn the key on normally it blinks five times continually.

The starter solenoid came in today but I was busy at the office all day and then had to go tonight 3 hour drive to pick up a 2001 TRX350TM to rehab, that will be another thread. I was able to use paint striper on the plastic and get it pretty clean. Tomorrow I have a busy morning (podcast filming on Tue/Thur) but should be home by noon or 1 and will hopefully take it for a test ride. I did ohm test the shift motor tonight and got 13 ohms. I need to see what the acceptable range is. I don't here anything at the motor so I will test voltage while hitting the shift button as well. Thanks for the encouraging words! VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

How do I get it to stop showing the previous post when replying? VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

Hope to take it for a ride tomorrow. Looks like I probably need a shift motor. VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

How do I clear the codes? VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

It looks like I probably need a shift motor? I will check the wiring to the motor tomorrow. VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

Just a little update for everyone. I traced all the wires repairing any cut wires along the way. The two main power wires from fuse box and the fan wires were cut. The carb heater wires are cut but the harness plug is there. I don't think I need it right now. The starter solenoid wires broke off right at the body of the solenoid with not enough left to repair, new one should be here Monday. Took me a while to find the coil wires as they were under the rear frame cross member. I installed a new coil, ignition switch, multi/shift switch and a battery today and turned the key and the dash lit up! Yes!! The shift indicator was flashing as was the clock. Jumped the solenoid to see if I had spark...nope. Removed the ECU and cleaned all connections and heated it with a heat gun hooked it back up and spark! Poured a little gas into the carb and boom she runs!!!!!!! I did the code check and I am getting code 5 and 11. I am amazed this thing cranked right up. My son and I looked at each other in disbelief, Lol. VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

Thanks for the reply. These are the kind of thinking I need. I know that I have always done resistance test on stators on the past but it seems that voltage tests are the new thing. That would tell me if it is actually sending a signal and not juts passing the resistance test. I did check the orange wire from CDI to coil and the the common ground shared by the regulator and CDI as well as the coil ground. As stated earlier I added a ground wire to the engine because Yamaha doesn't use one. Right now getting a service manual is not an option.

What is the AC voltage that should be coming from the stator and trigger coil?

I began to wonder if it was a ground issue, so I ran another cable from the frame to the engine.