Chris41586

That's sounds like a good way to set up. I definitely need to be Methodical and clear an area. I took the time to label everything I've done so far with the clutch, and even labeled the screws to which hole, because I saw they're different lengths.

Does anyone know which manual is the best to use to crack the case on a 2008 Suzuki LTZ400? What I think is the general manual I found online, is a little hard to understand, unless you know what you're doing. I'm starting from scratch without knowing anything about quad mechanics, and need to split the case to change out third gear. I've heard that the OEM manual is the best and most detail, but what about Haynes or Clymer? Can anyone tell me if they have experience with these? I'd rather pay for one I can understand, vs a free one that is like reading a language I can't understand.

That's a piece of third gear broken off. I have to split the case😢

Quick update. I just pulled the clutch cover, and the first thing I see, is a chunk of metal floating around. Haven't found what it's from yet, but hopefully nothing serious. Obviously not good though

So here's what's weird, I wanted to see what difference it made by tightening the clutch as well, and I could tell immediately that it's an issue being too tight. It wouldn't go anywhere until I let completely off the clutch. So I loosened it as much as I could again, the same place I had it when I just messaged you before, but now it seems like it's shifting hard all around. Even trying to get into neutral, it's hard to shift, and then goes right to second. So I have to turn it off, and then immediately goes into neutral easy. I don't get it. I for sure need to pull the clutch apart and check it out huh?

Wow, I didn't realize I'm getting help from a guy halfway around the world! Haha, well I definitely appreciate it. I might be tripping, or maybe a coincidence, but I thought my clutch adjustment was already loose, so I looked it up. The manual says between .4 and .6 inches, so about a half an inch. Well it was only around a quarter inch. I loosened it up as much as I can, and it's right under a half an inch. I went down the street, and it worked! But then... It worked off and on. I don't get it. Maybe I need to figure out how to loosen it just a little more, or it just happened to work, and I still have to take it apart. I wanted to try that beforehand, so if not, I'll rip it apart tomorrow. It's nighttime here, so I'm tinkering in the porch light. I'll let you know what I figure out

This kid is saying that sometimes it's a result of using the "wrong" oil, along with natural wear. Well, remember my first post here, was about the owner using 5W instead of 10W? That may be the issue, although I guess I'm not sure. Something I just thought about

Not sure if this will post, but here's the video I was talking about if you want to check it out.

Hey Mech, so I don't see any adjustments besides the cable, so I YouTube some clutch videos, and you're right about it being the clutch I was talking about, and not the gears. I'm not familiar with all the parts and how they function just yet, so sorry if I'm hard to understand or not explaining well. Anyways, I just watched a couple videos on clutch replacement, and they tipped the bike on the side to avoid draining the oil and coolant, and opened the clutch case to replace the spacers, along with what I assume are the clutch disks? They had little grooves and had to fit in there in a certain way and order. Is that what you're saying to look at, and if so, what am I looking for? Maybe I should just change them out if I'm going to open it up? The part I said the guy filed before, was in that box I believe, but it wasn't the disks I don't think. I feel like it was what the disks slide onto. I'll have to find the video again. BTW, are you in New Zealand?

Hey Mech! Sorry, I've been really busy with work lately, and doing side jobs as well. I haven't gotten a chance to look deep into it yet, but I did start it up several times and go down the block. The times I speed up fast and hit third at higher RPMs from second, it seems to go in, but still a little rough, and still doesn't want to go when I'm just cruising from second. I had seen a video the other day, where a guy was talking about little grooves being worn into the gears and getting them stuck. He gently filed the them down and it fixed the issue, but he didn't show exactly what was taken apart. He tipped the quad up on the side a little so he didn't have to drain the oil, and it seemed simple, but other things I've seen about tearing it apart said it was going to take hours just to get into it. I need to watch it again and see what exactly he looked into. The issue you just talked about, what do I look for to see if that's the solution? Honestly, I only messed with the adjustment for the clutch on the handle bar lever, but nothing else yet, so I can't rule that out quite yet either. I haven't found many good videos on how to actually maintenance quads yet. I did adjust the chain yesterday because it seemed loose (had a little over 2" of play) but that didn't help. Hmm, maybe tomorrow I'll get a chance to look into it more. Diagnosing the issues was never my strong suit in mechanics haha. Once I figure it out, I can change things, but I really have to learn how everything works together, and then I'll know what's not functioning properly.

Sounds like a great childhood! Minus the loss for your family. Unfortunately I know all about losses as well, but instead of letting it defeat me, I use it as drive to do/be better. Yep, the idle goes right back down after hitting the gas or letting off when riding and coasting while holding the clutch in. I'm also baffled a bit if it has to do with rolling, because as you said, everything is pretty well protected. I'm gone 14 hours out of the day right now during the week, because I'm doing a job two hours away and ten hour shifts, so I'll keep doing research and tinkering as I can. Biggest hurdle for me at the moment, is knowing what parts are what, like another language haha. I'm a union carpenter by trade and love to work with my hands, but haven't played with mechanics too much just yet, but definitely determined to figure it out!

If I'm going to have to dig into this bike too figure out what's going on, do you think the clymer manual is more in simple terms? I found the Suzuki manual in PDF, but it doesn't actually show you how to take it apart

Sounds like your son is lucky to have a cool dad! I messed with the clutch adjustment a little on the cable, but didn't make a difference. I actually don't think it's the clutch, just because it's not doing it in every gear. Then again, I really don't know how the components function with each other just yet. I read something about a bent tooth or fork somewhere, but not sure which part I need to check. BTW,I appreciate the input you've given me throughout our exchanges!

Google says a manual clutch

Mech, hope the weekends good! I haven't ridden ATVs all that much, but I had a dirt bike for a couple years when I was ten, and had a jet ski as a teen, so I related the shifting and the leaning to being able to ride and push my weight around. New bike is fast though! I'm not sure which clutch, but maybe I can look it up. I read somewhere that another person was having the same issues, and they weren't changing their oil enough. They said it's ok when they first change the oil. I still have the new oil in from when I bought it, but it is at the bottom of the stick (I wanted to get a little use from the oil before I dump it). This morning I'll fully change it and take her out to see if that helps.

I just got a Z400 and took it out for the first time. Seemed to run really well without issues until after I has ridden for a bit. So real quick, I've never owned and barely ridden a quad before. First time riding I got a little ballsy and started doing donuts. Was doing well until I let off the gas too soon by a little hill, and didn't turn quite enough. I went sideways on the hill and rolled her😅. Well I didn't roll too hard, and pretty much just into the right side, and the front brake and throttle pushed down a little, so I had to adjust them back. Shortly after that, I noticed it wasn't going into neutral without screwing around with it, like it kept passing it right to second, and then riding, it doesn't want to shift into third. I tried and different speeds because I thought maybe the rpms have to be up, and it did go in, but didn't seem to be at a certain rev point or speed. Once I get to third it goes right into fourth and fifth. Has anyone else has this issue, and do you think I knocked something out of wack when I rolled it?

Cool, thanks Mech. Definitely makes me feel a little better after having to drop so much money at one time, between the bike and safety gear (just a helmet, gloves, and goggles for now). Ready to ride this weekend!

That's what I want to do, because synthetic is also quite a bit more expensive, but can I still do that AFTER he's used synthetic? Of course I want to go back to regular

Not that I know of. The guy at the store today was saying the "4T" oil is for bikes with a wet clutch, and whatever else it lubricates, and that's why you use that instead of regular oil

The only 5W-40 they had was $18 a quart!😒 You're right, at that price I can just put new oil, but don't I have to use only synthetic from now on since that's what was in there? If so, that's a bummer, because it's twice the cost. Hopefully I can go longer in between changes then

What about the 10W part? Only reason I'd use that over 5W, is because when I do an oil change, I'm gonna use 10W, and right now I don't need a whole quart, so half of the 5W will never get used

New bonehead here figuring out the trails! Just got a 2008 Suzuki Z400, and the guy said he just did an oil change, but needs a little more because he was letting it cycle through before topping it off. He says he used ATV Power SAE 5W-40 Synthetic 4T Engine Oil, but the manual just says use 10W-40. He lives a couple hours away, where it's a little bit colder, so I'm assuming that's why he used 5W instead of 10W? Anyways, I only need a little bit more oil, and since it's already new in there, can I put the 10W in and let it mix? Also, does the brand being the same matter at all? I haven't gone out and looked in person yet, but actual ATV oil seems a bit expensive compared to just getting some standard oil at AutoZone, and the online manual I found isn't that clear on options. I'd appreciate some feedback and experience in this area, as well as the best place to get oil and filters when it's time. Thanks in advance!

Yep, looks like a great all around toy, and I've read a lot of articles praising it as such, so happy with my find! Well, I guess I'll know for sure Sunday when I see her in person haha. It's located a little over 4 hours away, but the guy agreed to meet me halfways. I told him that I sure hope it's as nice as it seems, because that's a far drive for nothing! Now I need a starter dirt bike for my 8 year old, that is cheap enough for when he bangs his way around learning haha

After lots off looking at the market and what's available at certain prices, I found a 2008 Suzuki z400, that looks new, has both sets of tires for trails and sand, and only has 87 hours. Everything still stock. He's asking $4,500, which is a little more than I wanted to spend, but the bikes I'm seeing for the same price have a good amount of rust and are older and beat. The market sucks right now, but I guess all I can do is take the best I can get

Do you think the 400-450 range is appropriate for all around fun?