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Kawinoob

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Everything posted by Kawinoob

  1. I know you meant no offense by it. It’s sure is a good reminder anyways. I think sometimes it’s easy to forget we are prone to mistakes. sorry about the lack of updates guys. We just bought a new car so I have been busy dealing with that and haven’t had time to look at the 4 x 4 lately.
  2. Should add I am a diesel mech. Very positive it is put together properly. However, I am asking to see if there is something about these that I don’t know like are they full time 4x4 with switch on? Does the 4x4 only operate when the rear tires slip? However if normal function is always on with activation then I can lift the front and look for 4x4 lockup. I am certain it is most likely electronic. Probably a coil.
  3. Not sure where to start with 4x4 inspection. I tried to drive over a long the other day and noticed that the front wheels were not engaging. Recently had the differential apart front diff coil measures at 25 ohms. Everything looked pretty good. I also repaired the pigtail for the front differential connection. I replaced the Sprague cage with an aluminum one and all the bearings in the diff. So, as it sits. My 4 x 4 switch works as far as I can tell. My gauge cluster shows 4 x 4 I just have no engagement. Any suggestions on where to start?
  4. Replaced the u-joints and put a new badlands 3500lbs atv winch on her this weekend! I have new upholstery/seat foam on order, custom made with an extra 1/4 foam sewn in the cover. Pretty excited! Will be using it to plow this winter and as a toy on the side to go tackle some trails.
  5. Just got it out today for the first time. Rode great and not bothering with jetting because it felt great. Are these Hilliard differentials normally whiny upon deceleration? It only makes noise when it is below 5mpg to a stop. I should also add that it has an aluminum sprague cage instead of plastic and new bearings/seals.
  6. That is charging voltage, 14.7 is as high as that should be. Your issue lies somewhere else, I would purchase/obtain a manual and follow the diagnostic route set forth by Polaris.
  7. I have a champion in it now, I think I’ll switch to an iridium after it’s dialed in. I like having less stress on the ignition system! Lol that plug is brand new… I think you’re right as far as just needing to adjust the needle. It’ll be a week or so before I’m that far though. Thanks, I like to think I pay attention most days! 🤣
  8. Duly noted. I will keep this in mind for the coming weeks. Still have a lot to do before riding. Front diff Rear torsion bushings Exh. Rocker Reupholster seat Front cv shaft
  9. I feel like when I rev it out, it is shorting itself in the top. It’s not hitting rev limiter as far as I can tell. However, it’s hard to tell when you aren’t riding lol. Can’t says it’s Faulty without a load. I am 0-1800ft elevation
  10. Well I’m not going to close this case yet. I still have the diff to rebuild and a test drive to do. Finished the rear end and new tires for the front. Waiting on a drive shaft for the front and the exhaust rocker. Changed all Fluid and filters, greased her up. I think I might need to size up the main slightly. I need to know what max rpm for this machine is though. Service manual does not say as far as I can tell.
  11. Yeah seeing it for what it is usually take some time unless its very obvious. Glad you all could talk me through it! I was very sure it was a carb issue as well myself. Not having enough fuel and being properly jetted never made any sense lol.
  12. I figured it out 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 The carb vent tubes were ran down the PVT intake and as a by product it was stealing vacuum from the carburetor. I pulled the vacuum vent lines out of the PVT and “voila” no more “lean” condition. This had me thrown for a loop because the plug color was so perfect. Also, the kill switch needed a clean up and I bought an eBay one. No more touchy kill switch. No electrical problems as of right now. My exhaust rocker was damaged though as if someone had done a cam and not replaced the rocker. Ordering today. Woohoo!!
  13. I guess I should add I am a diesel mechanic for the daily. I have checked what I believe to be the simple things first. Carburetor disassembly/reassembly was meticulous. I think I am worried that either 1: I have port spark under throttle 2: This is a bad carb right out of the gate
  14. Will not maintain an rpm at given throttle above 3000rpm. Rpm’s fall and rise slowly as if fuel level drops and then catches up. Very distinctly lean, bogs with a lot of throttle and then catches up. However…the spark plug is dark brown…that indicates an otherwise rich condition.. Tank vent is good. No emissions equipment. No air cut valve on carb.
  15. My stator lead were fried at the 16 pin connector for the power control module at an earlier point. I haven’t noticed any weird functions however.
  16. No I have not, please give me some direction here. What should I check and where? I just got a manual and repaired a LOT of wiring and have great running lighting at the moment. However it is all converted to LED lights (less draw).
  17. Okay so. I still have an issue with fuel/spark/air and not sure which. VALVES JUST ADJUSTED AND CHECKED FOR 3rd TIME 🙄 Air filter is new and no holes in air boot/air box cover. I have a new plug and the bike starts easily. I stripped my plug wire back a little for better connection. I have a new fuel pump and a brand new Mikuni BST34. I moved all the jetting to stock for my elevation main 167 idle 42 choke 160. I swapped my needle and emulsion tube over because they were different as well. Float height is also good. Petcock is rebuilt and has good flow with a new filter and fuel lines. I am still running lean, and I can verify this by choking it and it runs better. Will NOT maintain rpm at constant throttle. VERY CONFUSED AS TO WHY WE ARE HERE LOL ****before anyone suggest a re-jet this is at Polaris’s recommended jetting via the manual for my elevation**** Am I possibly looking at a CDI?
  18. Well stil waiting on my fuel pump. So no progress there. I did however replace all the suspension bushings! The list is getting smaller! Yet still so much to do..
  19. I bought an OEM carb direct from a Mikuni importer. $200 instead of Polaris’s $500+ It’s the proper carby all I had to do was jet it properly for this bike
  20. Yeah I ripped the side of my diff off... I got a new housing coming and a new LH cv shaft. So, it does run with the key switch as of right now. It idles and starts very easy…one slight catch. It throttles up erratically and will not maintain rpm. Valve lash got set already and we have great vacuum and a new carb. I am a little fat on my main jet, but my pilot is a 42. I jumped the main to a 180 from 167 and hardly a difference. Also, it has fresh ethanol free 91 octane gas. I am thinking the external fuel pump took a dump due to the slight fuel trickle that I have out of it. Im not sure if the 2006 had a cam problem like earlier years, but I checked it as well and no visible sign with the valve cover off at least from what I can tell.
  21. The bendix is bad hence the grinding. Already ordered one. Think I found my culprit, incorrectly wired key switch. Kill switch and key switch now operate in unison and kill functions as they should. I can’t attempt to start it until I get the bendix and put the flywheel cover back on. On a separate note I bought a brand new mikuni for it and it was running like s*** bogging and hesitating. It idles and starts great but does not want to rev up and cuts out as if it’s lean. Bought two size up main jets for it and will find out tomorrow if we are good. Next it’s my suspension bushings, ball joints, front tires and fluids. I also have a STUCK, STUCK, STUCK left front cv shaft that I am sure will break the diff case if I remove it. I did manage to remove the right cv shaft after 3 days and upon pulling the cover found nothing of concern. Thankfully. Pigtail for the 4wd was broken and I had to fix it today. So hopefully she works fine after I get that cv removed and anti-sieze the end for any future replacements.
  22. So title tells all. achine was sitting for two years untouched. I will post a picture with diagnostic path so far. Replaced defective start solenoid, starter grinding but engaging. Replaced all wiring in #1 splice with dark green, brown and red/white wires. Checked all other junctions. Pull start works phenomenally and starts instantly. Kill switch does absolutely nothing, but the key will stop the bike and allows it to start. Replaced key switch and pigtail at key switch. As of now all lighting is functional (was not before fixing it) The Good: -has new spark plug -valves were adjusted -key switch -wiring appears in order after repair -display functioning -new battery -always starts easily on pull rope -etc switch -pulsar coil - ignition coil I am replacing the bendix due to intermittent failure and gapping the pulsar tonight. Also, replacing battery cables and unplugging kill wire from cdi to isolate. Replacing battery wires to starter and ground cable.
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