Jd101506

2 hours ago, Savage3 said:

There is the problem sir! Take solenoid off the vehicle, bench test.

When power is applied, you should have continuity between terminals.

When no power is supplied, you should not have continuity.

In short, either solenoid is welded or you have constant power in that circuit.

First step, bench test solenoid.

 

I have to go to work Boss. If this doesn't make sense, search you tube for bench testing a solenoid.

 

I'll check back later.

I went end to end and I checked my wiring while I was bored. Everything seemed fine, I didn’t find anything pinched or exposed or anything. This quad sat in a field for a very long time outside so I wouldn’t be surprised to find corroded or damaged electrical bits. Amazingly all the headlight, tail light, buttons, etc all work. 
 

So question. Testing both terminals like in my photo before it should yield NO current while running? Or while off? It’s odd because the starter works when I push the button and I can hear it clicking when I push the button. But I do have voltage running, on or off. I’ll bench test it tomorrow. 
 

I pulled the carb tonight and stripped it down. Noticed worn seals and all that, cleaned the hell out of it and reinstalled. Same low low idle, double checked all my lines and such as well. Definitely will need a rebuild kit or a new carb I think. I changed all my vacuum lines regardless with no change. It does ride around though as long as I’m throttling up though. Ha. 
 

added a video of turning off the quad. Ironically when I took this video it idles perfectly and then konked out when I blipped the throttle. 🙄

1 hour ago, Savage3 said:

Yes sir,

Sometimes, the wires go through the neutral switch or other safety switches after pushing start button. 

We may have to narrow it down.

In my humble opinion, it would be a good idea to start with checking power at the solenoid.

Current should only be at the (hot) or "S" terminal on the solenoid while pushing the starter button.

Once the engine is running and you are no longer pushing start button, there should be no power on that circuit.

If there is power while engine is running, then we simply work backward through any safety switches to the starter switch.

It appears, either the contacts in the solenoid are getting stuck or one of the switches has a direct short.

 

Alright. I finally got my tires and ran it around the yard a bit. This thing is just fun as all get out. Definitely need to address the carb being dirty but it went! After I got back from ruining my lawn, I pulled my multimeter and took this reading: 

the solenoid terminals read that off or on, running or not. 

Ok!  

Will check and report back.  So oddly, and I can't make sense of this, ever since I "lost" the ability to turn the fourwheeler off with the key, its been running really odd.  It'll startup great, and it will run for about 3-5 seconds then its like someones letting the air out of a balloon... It slowly loses RPM at idle.  I can throttle up and it throttles up evenly and instantly, no hesitation or surging... then as it comes back down to idle it will slowly die again.  No chances were made to the fuel system, pump, carb, or anything but for giggles I made myself a auxiliary tank and I mainlined fuel directly into the carb bowl... Same symptoms with the fuel tank + lines.  Its really strange.  I've tried resetting the carb idle, and the mixture screw, the mixture screw makes ZERO difference, it'll just start smoking more as it richens up... If I bump the idle speed screw up it'll stay running.  

Before I had this issue the bike would start and idle forever without complaint.  Hell it sounded better than half the fourwheelers I had.  Since that time I changed the plug to a new one (Same plug, same gap, just new), changed the oil and filter, and swapped the tires.  I also cleaned out the airbox since it was a little funky.  

I doubt, but I can't rule out they are connected but this slowing-idle-to-inevitable-death situation started the same time the fourwheeler not turning off started.  Just as another piece of information. 

I'll test for battery on the S terminal and I'll start tracing wiring tonight.  

Thanks everyone!

8 hours ago, Mech said:

I have several diagrams.. 

Have a look at how many wires are coming out the back of the switch, and their colours.

If it has five, two are for turning the power on to the accessories, two are for shorting the ignition..  The ignition kill pair might not be switching, or they have a break in one of them.

I think that your switch might be like this one. The  wire colours may be different.

output.pdf 37.21 kB · 0 downloads

This is awesome! I’m having a hell of a time finding the repair manual for this LT300 here but I was able to find every other Suzuki model… 

I’ll pull that switch and check the runs between. Thank you! 

I’ve been trying to find the correct service manual here actually. It’s a 1987 LT300E. I haven’t yet found the correct one in downloads. 

Yep! 

Hi all-

I’ve got a LT300e that I’m working on.  The last two days I noticed as I’ve been testing it, it won’t turn off with the key. The kill switch still works to turn it off, as does everything else (lights, neutral light, reverse, starter, etc). So I guess I’m taking votes on what to do here… Ignition the issue? Wiring grounding issue somewhere? 
Not sure where to start so any help would be appreciated! 

Hi all,

working on a 1987 LT300e, and I’m looking for the service manual. I know this quad is a little different than the Kingquads and the service manual doesn’t really apply. For instance the kingquads need 3.3-3.7 quarts of oil, this calls for 1.6. Again, differences that add up over time. I didn’t see the service manual here on the site in the downloads and wondering if anyone has a copy? for some of the mechanical stuff I’m fine with the king quad but some of the technical stuff I want to be sure I get it right. 
 

thanks! 

After digging in a bit. 
 

realize that these are all controlled by vacuum created by the engine cranking. My pump still won’t pump fuel but I know I can get fuel from the tank. I ended up ordering a new fuel pump to test out and see if that immediately fixes the issue. 

Had a similar problem with my 335 actually. The hotter plug did help but I don’t think my issues were as drastic as yours. Would foul and run a little rough between oil changes. Dropping down a plug helped. 

This was such a cool read. Thanks for sharing! 

This was helpful for me as well as I’m gearing up to check mine. Thanks! 

Update again and solved. (Mods didn’t approve my post until I solved it. ) 

shims on the shoes were completely stuck to the inside of the drum. Managed to unstick with some time, PB blaster, and a little help from my friendly map torch. 
 

managed to also rescue the cam actuator for the brakes. I thought for sure it was done for but man the map torch came through again. 

Update: Still stuck after sitting all night with some PB blaster.  I'm trying not to hurt it, but again, I want to be sure there isnt a bolt/nut holding this drum in place somewhere?  I didnt see one, but since I can't turn the drum I can't see the entire surface inside.  

Sounds silly, but how exactly do these pumps work? I’ve got one in my LT300 that’s bad. It won’t delivery any fuel to the carb but I can push air through the lines, and I can blow bubbles into the tank from the fuel pump as well so I know it’s the pump that’s not working. Is there a better way to test it? I don’t know enough about it to say yay or nay. Thanks! 

Hi all! I’ve got a barn find LT300 with a frozen rear drum. I’ve just about done everything to get this thing off aside from a torch. I don’t have access to the service manual as yet but I assume there isn’t a locking screw somewhere? 
 

I hammered it. I pulled on it. I pryed on it. I soaked it in PB blaster. It’s just about done me in. I soaked it good and put a little pressure on it with my jaw puller to see if it loosens up overnight. Again, this bike was a barn find so I’m not entirely shocked but I wanna be sure there isn’t something I missed. 
 

thanks! 

Sweet!  Thanks all for the 300 Quadrunner manual! 

Is it only when you are at idle?  If you blip the throttle and downshift does it do the same thing?