Joeguy

Hmm i guess check compression if you got a gauge. You trying to use starting fluid with gas still in carb and lines hooked up?, if so then maybe its flooding and you should try draining carb and turning fuel off then pull sparkplug and give it a few pulls to get some gas out, then try starting fluid again. Also good time to see if spark plug is fouled and gapped right.

Seems to be the cable, eerything else seems to work fine but i have to go to max adjustment for the cable to work right and it sticks so i have to like manually re center it every shift. Tried to run a bunch of oil through it but didnt do much for it.

I saw some recommendations on other posts about cable adjustment and also double checking to make sure that the pinch bolt is tight so its not slipping around on those splines going into the transmission, probably gona have a go at those tomorrow.

It was only top end but i coulda messed up some linkages while doing it. I can take a video of it if that would help. I should probably post about that rebuild sometime too i did it on a pretty cheap budget.

After i did my rebuild it seems to not want to shift well. I think the cable is alright, and when it does shift its nice and solid. I have to basically use my hand to shift and i have to pull or push it very far, like max travel, to get it to shift. I also tried adjusting the clutch set screw. Any ideas where to go next, or maybe i should just grab a new cable to try.

I think easiest thing is to make sure you have good gas and the proper octane. I have had stuff do that with really old gas before. Probably something more ignition related though.

Well now i got what i believe to be an intake leak, my rebuild kit said it comes with a new o ring but i didn't see any that fit really, only 1 seemed close and it was a bit small. Tried to make my own gasket outa gasket paper, but doesn't seem to be working well, only runs with enrichment on and also does this. Guess the carb comes back out again for the 100th time lol. VID_20251222_170215339.mp4

Update-so ya the valves were wayy too tight, adjusted em and now i got ALOT of compression. Sure hope i can get this electric start working now because thats going to be really rough to pull start every time ha.

Did a top end rebuild, honed .010 over, new piston, rings, valve seals, etc. When i re assembled i only had like 30 psi of compression but then after it sat all night i now it seems to have gained some somehow, there is much more resistance pulling it over and i even got it to fire for a few pops. Issue i got is that it makes a loud squeak noise through the intake i believe (goes away when throttled so something with carb area) and it seems to not want to run well. I took head cover back off and timing seems fine so im not sure if something is sticky and that's why i got some change over time or maybe the valve lash is messed up after doing all this, i did get another cam for it but i wouldnt think it would make enough difference to need to re lash. Any insight on next step would be appreciated, i will be looking up how to do lash on these because it is a very weird angle to slip a feeler gauge in. Actually cam is slightly off now that i look at the picture, thought it was good while looking in person. Hmm.

Well i found em but rebuild was a fail anyway i guess lol, got like no compression. Ill have to make up a separate post and maybe get some help wit it.

I randomly got the urge to rebuild my quad and seem to have lost my nuts and washers for mounting the head somehow. Has anyone replaced them with just some normal hardware from a local store and had luck? Really im just worried about the washer thickness and the depth of the acorn cap nuts. I found some used sets on ebay but they want like 20+ dollars for em and then id have to wait for shipping aswell, trying to get it done before we get too much snow. I am also just going to keep looking around as i know i have seen them recently, i just must have moved them to keep em safe one day and forgot where i stuck em.

Ya from what ive seen most are .020, should clean up way before that but ill take it all to em.

Im just going to gamble on the bottom end because im lazy and it feels ok i believe, might be a waste of money but oh well. I didn't notice that the rebuild kits say what the bore should be till i just looked so ill get that done, luckily my buddy can get it done cheap for me. Hopefully be getting it back together after that, and we shall see if my cheaping out is going to work ha.

Also dumb question but how much space should there be between the piston and the walls of the cylinder? Like if i buy an oversize piston should i get it bored out to like maybe 5 thou larger than the piston? Im just not sure how tight of a fit it is supposed to be.

Well i changed the filter when i first got it and i did not see anything but i guess ill have to drain it and check it all again. Do you know where the sieve is at on this? If not ill take a peek through the manual.

Doesn't appear to be lifting i think some chunks got in there. Rocker has a small mark on it, i think i can feel a small something there but nothing i can like catch a fingernail on or anything.

Man now i just noticed i need a camshaft ha, just keeps on adding on. Some how did not notice this till today when i was wiping everything down.

I measured with just some cheap bore gauges and my digital calipers so its not the best measurements probably. Ill see if my buddy that does ID work can bring me better stuff to check.

Hmm i guess ill price out a local shop then, to bad i quit my other job that had a Sunnen or id just do it myself. This was a really cheap purchase and the quad is kinda beat up so im not too keen on spending a bunch when i could just sell the parts off this one and put that money + repair/parts bill and get one that already runs. Been a fun experience so far atleast, and learning.

Ok well i checked the bore over and got a roundness of like .0015 and a taper of .003. That ring does not seem to be a ridge its more of an undercut and it seems to be like .002 deep but im only checking with some cheap bore gauges so its kinda hard to tell exactly. The bore was at 2.601 inches and the piston was 2.586 inches. So would you recommend that i try to clean that ring up a bit with my hone or would it be ok as is.

Ah damn i only tested at tdc, its like .100 side to side at that point if that matters ha. Ill have to check again properly tommorow. I did hone out the cylinder a bit today and it seems like it cleaned up well except for right at the top there is a bit of an indent, ill have to get my bore gauges and check and see how much it actually is aswell as the rest of it.

Also anyone know why the 2nd ring and the piston were like shattered into pieces?

Wish a top end rebuild kit wasn't like a hundred bucks. Im going to do so actual testing and measure on that rod and see how its looking because honestly it feels smooth and doesnt have much play if i like pull in and out its just side to side. Never done much engine work except like weedwacker and tractors so im gettin a bit more involved here.

Well got bored today and tore into this thing finally. Bad news, we got damage. Also, ya it at least needs a bearing in the bottom end. What a nightmare to get this thing apart, i do not enjoy working on this thing at all. I am not excited at the though that now i would need to pull the engine to fix it so i think it might just be junk time. You guys think its worth the time and money at this point? It seems pretty beat to me. 20241124_170300.mp4

Same, i got it because of price and ive beat on this battery using to on my go kart, motorcycle, and now the atv lol. Still kickin, will definitively buy more so i dont have to use 1 battery and swap it between everything. Ive got about 3 years on mine so far.