BillR94

Yes, i saw that one as well. I was going to buy it but I did not know if the part number not being exact would make a difference. Hence my inquiry. Thank you for looking tho

Yes, but it is not available.

I bypassed the ETC, That was ruled out. I am currently looking for a limiter to try.

I suspect this bike may have a bad speed limiter. The part number for is 4060204. I found this one on ebay but it has a part number that is 1 number different. (4060203). It has the same LR44-2 and says its for a 94 Magnum 425. Will this one work on my machine or do I absolutely have to have the 4060204? Your advice would be appreciated. Thank you https://www.ebay.com/itm/326817022020?_skw=Polaris+speed+limiter+LR+44-2+4060204&itmmeta=01KF74RJDTYSQNAP11RNJHCRQQ&hash=item4c17d00044:g:IRYAAeSwfO1o7eFo&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAO7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fp%2FPZwHFglDA7v--td9bxBP05QJN8jM6A97tWp7MfGdxP%2Fo9vRaFVpxhV0%2B86jsb4r1WPwXcF%2FLp132KMxBdyLCSwt%2FtSvxD4%2B2RhmZOKzQYHqX0tNsUT1cqqf1TT0TxauZTveHSqgA8UlZ3Qb3ALQlGIIFiaiXjpWNHwRUnyNGKvI5gDVtbwv7eIrkF8m42Bvb75n4dwn0jTJyLPLZveJMPDcjlyHha0wv1Q1JbVnF%2FxxfSi2ros0dbFHRLsBpdH0TT9LNoSTtump3ZDZ%2BA9xqfasfcwHrDJzDX2BDC9Jx8NZeI%2B3mcvOJ7H8qPpwW7OY%3D|tkp%3ABFBMhKfi5Plm

Thank you Dave, That is one hell of a library!

Today, I put an OEM carb on it and it did not change/correct the issue. I am now convinced that this is NOT a fuel/carb issue. I also do NOT think it is a timing issue. I am leaning toward electrical so I have a couple of wiring questions. Since I replaced the stater to get spark back (as you may recall, a no spark issue was the original problem) I think it might be related to that. I discovered that the bike is losing spark AFTER it starts. Plug1 picture shows a 3 wire plug with a empty slot. The other side of the plug has 2 black wires going into it opposite side of the empty slot. Picture 3 shows a black wire that I found hanging coming off a black box (I don't know what that black box is for) . So, I thought that that hanging black wire goes into that empty spot on the plug. When I plug that hanging wire into that open slot, the bike loses spark completely. Picture 2 shows a brown wire pigtail that is part of the stater wiring harness. It was plugged into one of the wires going to the headlight. That seems odd to me., So my questions are: Where does that brown wire go? Where does that black wire go? If it goes in that plug, why am I losing spark completely? I put in an aftermarket stater cuz I couldn't find an OEM one. Could it be the wrong stater? and lastly, If you were going to replace a stater, is there a specific brand/manufacturer I should get? Please include link if you can. Thank you

As I stated earlier, I have done all that. In fact, multiple times. I have checked timing marks, cam lobes, valve clearance, checked for clogged exhaust, bad grounds, carb, shut off switch, throttle safety, fly wheal woodruff key, timing chain, compression, leak down, stater, coil, CDI, crank gear woodfuff key, carb boot etc etc etc... no joy!

I'm not ready to part it out yet.

No. its just me. I don't know any local mechanics that are familiar with this bike. I appreciate your help tho. I'll just have to do more research (or part it out).

I guess I don't understand. How can the timing be 180 out? I have the timing marks on the crankshaft lined up with the case. I have the two dots on the cam gear lined up at the top of the gear, I have the piston at top dead center. I checked the woodruff keys to make sure they are not sheered, The timing chain is tight, and I have the timing marks on the stater lines up with the case mark. If the timing was 180 out, it would not run at all...... wouldn't it? Can you please give me more info on how it could be 180 out and how to check it? I'd be glad to check it and get back to you.

I then looked at the de compression mechanism install procedure in the book. I took it out and reinstalled it just as the book says. The leak decreased considerably but I don't understand how I got 200 psi. No change, it does the same thing. (sigh)

I just redid the compression test. With the throttle fully open (cuz I knew you going to ask me if I opened it) it was 200 psi. I then did a leak down test and it is leaking badly from the exhaust. I loosened the valve adjustment on both valves several turns and although the leak subsided, it did not stop completely. Would that be a de-compression issue or hopefully your not going to say bent exhaust valves!?

yes, both ways have spark. You can see it run for a short time in the video I posted yesterday

But if I unplugged the connector and there is no change to the issue, would that not mean the switch would be ruled out? Or am I missing something.?

I'm not sure either. nut no matter what I do with the switch (plugged in or not) it has no effect on the issue.

Yes, I get it Dave. In fact, I went over the timing ( removing the valve cover, side cover, recoil, flywheel, stater, stater cover) and checked the marks and aligning them a total of 5 times. Piston at the top. But if it was 180 out, it would not run at all (would it). In the video below, I disconnected the exhaust in case it was clogged and causing the issue. I tried another known good CDI. I took apart the kill switch and cleaned it. I removed the starter solenoid and cleaned all the connections and the ground. I went through all the wiring for the CDI. coil. stater to make sure they were connected and grounded where needed. Still no change. It would not surprise that it is something very simple, or even something dumb I did but for the life of me I have no clue what it would be. Currently, I am looking for an OEM carb and stater to try. Hopefully a local person will let me borrow them for testing purposes. I'm running out of idea! Correction, I AM out of ideas!

I unplugged it completely and it did not make any difference. I also took the kill switch apart and cleaned it with no luck. I have tried everything I can think of and everything that was suggested and this bike will not run. I just don't get it!

Thank you Sha35297, Gwbarm This bike is a little different than the one shown in that video. I know they perform the same task but I did manually separate the contacts and the problem is still there. Is there a way to bypass this switch or temporarily disconnect it for testing purposes? It looks like it is working correctly but I am not sure. Isolating it from the system would confirm if it's the problem.

Yup, tried carb spray directly into the intake. Same issue. Only other thing I can think to try is a leak down test but not sure that will show anything. The previous owner said the machine would start and run fine before the stater went out. But I have to try it!

I have checked and double checked timing. It is spot on. The timing chain is tight. The spark plug is new. I have tried removing the filter and placing my hand over the intake. There is strong suction and the engine will fire when I do that. It just does not stay running. As I said, I have tried 3 different carburetors because it DOES seem like it is not getting fuel ( and/or losing spark) and all three carbs have the exact same results. That just seems suspect to me. I am trying to find an OEM carb to try out but don't want to spend $250 for a part I am not sure will address my issue. Its hard to "borrow" one. I keep thinking it is a simple solution I am missing but I am at a loss as to what that might be or what else to try.

I tried your suggestion this morning. It DOES have spark when I pull it over manually. Would a bad stater cause this issue?

No, I never thought of that. I will try it today. Thank you. What would cause it to do that?

I have tried 3 different carbs so far. All non OEM but one of the carbs I borrowed from a running ATV. The issue remained the same no matter what carb was used. It does not rev up at all. The best way I can describe what is is doing is imagine starting it (and it starts) but immediately turning it off. No matter where the throttle is at, it does the same thing. Its like it loses spark just after it start. Now to be clear, I DO NOT know if it is actually losing spark, I'm saying it acts like it. I tried a spark tester and it has a nice strong spark but I can't tell if it is losing spark under compression or not. I spoke with the previous owner about this and he says that the machine ran fine , started fine, and were riding it around when it lost spark. So the only thing that has changed is the replacement of the stater and pickup coil. It is an aftermarket stater so is it possible, I got a bad one? I have no idea. I am going to borrow the stater from the same guy I got the carb from to see if that is the issue but I am not holding my breath. I'm going to attach a video but it is hard to hear clearly that it fires a few times then dies. I am pretty much out of ideas.

Yes, I have used a battery charger, and a car battery with jumper cables. The battery is fairly new. It made no difference.

I picked up this ATV that had no spark. The previous owner said he was driving it and it died and would not start. He discovered it had no spark. He replaced the CDI and the coil with no luck. He got tired of it and I bought it. I replaced the stater and now it has strong spark. Now, it starts for a second or two then dies. It will not stay running. I have checked the timing and it is spot on. The valves are adjusted correctly. I see no warn issues with the cam. I put the original CDI and coil back on it. Same problem exists. Compression is at 65 psi (has decompression mechanism), I took off the muffler in case the issue was clogged pipes. No change. I replaced the spark plug. No change. The carb was an aftermarket so I put a Niche carb on with no change. I bypassed the fuel pump and that did nothing to solve the problem. I don't know if this is a carb issue or an ignition issue. I am looking around locally for an OEM carb to try out but not sure that will fix the problem. Can anyone help me solve this problem. I am running out of ideas. Thank you for your time Bill