goatman

I wound up making a smaller air intake hole and kept trimming the hole larger until it wouldn't choke itself out and solved the problem

heres a short video

i took both ends off and tapped it on with a piece of wood but you could leave one end on and just drill a new exhaust port in the bottom of the can

bottom of the tail pipe was rusted out and the little nut also ripped off when i tried to undo it. a 540 ml soup can is the same id as the exhaust pipe od and the soup can has ridges to make it a tight fit a little bit of a mickey mouse fix but it works

it has the right 5d40 jet needle. the jet needle has 5 grooves for the clip its supposed to be in the 4th groove but nothing says groove from top or groove from bottom, tried them all and its at the 2nd from top of carb or 4th groove from bottom. the battery was brand new when i tested the running voltage before so it was sucking some voltage topping up its charge. right now its 14v at motor hot idle and 13.7v under throttle. i think its supposed to have 160 psi compression and its at 110 psi, like i said im just going to be happy with how it is

the head lights are not hooked up right now, at idle it would show 13.5v and when revved the volts would drop to 13.1v. coil pick up was 120 ohms(100 to 200), the 3 yellow wires 0.6 ohms (0.1 to 1.0). ignition coil primary resistance was 0.5 ohms and secondary was 19,800 ohms (12,000 to 20,000) i was going to have a good look at the jet needle to see if there is a number on it and to move the clip to different positions

checked stator, coil pick up and coil they all checked out just fine taking off in high it feels like it wants to lift the front tires off the ground its a 1998/27 year old machine, im just going to call it good enough. thanks for your help

went to 0.006 on the exhaust valve didnt do much of anything except a slight ticking sound

a person mentioned to me it sounded like the exhaust valve isnt completely seating. ill increase the exhaust gap a little more tomorrow and see if that helps.

yes, i can accelerate through the throttle, before at 1/4 throttle it would bog out so if i wanted to move the quad in high gear it would stall so then i would shift into low to get it to move, now you can see it powers all through the throttle and i can move forward in high gear. ill play with it more tomorrow. when the throttle is pinned it sounds like a rev limiter to me

this is where the quad got stuck on the van

i compression tested it with the carb off 110 psi do they have rev limiters?

the foot shifter cable came in from amazon that measured 26.77" and it fits. cam lobes in right direction?, i didnt look at the lobes. i made sure the "A" stamped on the cam was in the same position as it was when i took it out. -A- guess ill find out soon enough

i cleaned the head gasket up, got all the black compound they use off it and sprayed it well with copper, the head gasket didnt blow, lapped the valves and got all the carbon off them. they spin nice and are not sloppy, timing chain tensioner seems to be working just fine. got it all back together just waiting for the Permatex Ultra Black to set up on the head cover. i wanted to take it up to a mining claim i have this weekend, hopefully this works and ill see if i can do a proper compression test with throttle open

if i understand correctly, the flywheel is fixed in place by a keyed shaft, the coil pick up is fixed in place. theres no adjustments that can be made in the gear case. the cam shaft is in time with the flywheel, no adjustments can be made, mechanically the engine is in time. so what you are saying is the cdi is pooched? thats the only thing that says when to fire the spark plug correct? so at about 1200 rpm we should have 10 degrees btdc to fire the plug and at full throttle about 30 degrees btdc, i understand that i saw in the manual that they said the throttle needs to be open to compression test it, i did not do that it was still blowing air out the intake at about 2000?rpm i still think there is a valve problem today will be my last day of working on it, if it doesnt work, it can sit for a month while i wait for parts and spare time

ill look at it tomorrow to see if ill re-use it. im in Canada, parts arent readily available and to get gaskets will cost as much as a top end rebuild kit from ebay USA. ill probably slap it together and if it doesnt work ill order a top end rebuild kit.

this ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/154318957476

im in Canada, the only gaskets i could find was a top end rebuild kit. cylinder, piston all the gaskets for about $1000 cad delivered. if lapping the valves works ill bring in a top end kit from ebay in the USA, theyre only $200 cad delivered. ebay is also Namura brand https://atvcylinders.com/en-ca/products/1991-2000-suzuki-king-quad-kingquad-300-cylinder-piston-top-end-rebuild-motor-engine

the headgasket looked they just used permatex ultra black. would you spray the steel gasket with copper coat instead of the ultra black. i realize there is an o-ring on one of the studs that needs ultra black but for the steel gasket id rather copper coat it than use the caulking

got it off, lots of carbon but when i sprayed cleaner in the valve ports nothing leaked out. got some paste coming from amazon to lap the valves and put it back together.

i checked that by spraying maf cleaner around everything while it was running to see if it would rev up but no leaks. i just did a compression test with the valves backed off and the psi was jumping from 35 psi to 50 psi. im thinking it needs new intake valve or something. im just going to tear into it and see what i find.

the white and black came out by the speedometer and connected to an orange wire that goes into the left hand controls, off/on, start and lights. i plugged them together and nothing happened. im starting to think the intake valve is toast. just going to go recheck the gap. right now it starts and idles, give it half throttle and it blows air out the intake by the gas tank and will die if i dont release the throttle. its not back firing. i can get it to go full throttle and its sucking a ton of air through the intake. its such a pita to try and set the gap on these things, getting ready to lose it on this thing lol

by carburetor theres 2 wires, 1-orange wire that is a female barrel connector and a white wire/black stripe male barrel connector. they could plug into each other but they werent connected so i didnt, i just put some heat shrink on the white/black connector. looking at wiring diagrams there is no white/black wire anywhere saying what it is theres something else i just clued into. someone painted the motor black do you think its possible that the paint is making the motor run hot causing a lean condition?

need to buy a timing light with a digital display that shows rpm/degrees the cdi is what adjusts the timing, correct? INNOVA 3568 Digital Timing Light, Timing Lights - Amazon Canada

went looking for a cdi tester and the suzuki pocket tool is $700, not doing that, they say you can only use their tester and not a normal DMM??? lowered the clip to the 5th groove on the needle, exhaust was hot right away and throttle crapped out. moved the needle clip to the 2nd groove from the top and throttle was alot better, still getting red exhaust under throttle though. ill try the top groove tomorrow.