goatman

the e-clip is 7mm id, the shifter linkage is 8mm od and the e-clip fits into a groove pulled the cylinder head cover and the timing marks on the cam are where they are supposed to be so it hasnt skipped a tooth. so now what? Trouble shoot the cdi?

the shifter cable was missing along with the e-clip and cotter pin for the gear shifter when i got it the tires were low, there was no battery, couldnt get it in neutral, had no ramps and 2 of us were trying to manhandle it in i picked it up with an old GMC Safari mini van that has a 2 inch ball hitch on it and when i went to take the hitch off, its rusted/seized into the receiver i was standing in the back of the minivan lifting up the front of the quad while the other was trying to push got the front tires onto the bumper and stopped for a breather, the quad rolled back off the bumper and you would not believe what happened the 2 inch ball got wedged in between the front diff and that little cross bar in front of it, it would not come off the Quad was stuck on the hitch i unbolted the front diff but when i went to slide the bolt out the front diff shifter cable was in the way so i pulled the e-clip, removed the cable to remove the bolt then was able to raise the diff enough to get the quad off the ball. lost that e-clip then we got smart and put the quad in as* first.

the auto parts place didnt have metric e-clips so i got 2-1/4" e-clips (6.35mm) theyre a touch too small so the e-clips are 7mm id e-clips the 32-1/2" shifter cable for the foot/gear shifter is about 5-1/2" too long, i think its actually for the front diff but who knows I found another one that is 26.77" long, hopefully this one works https://www.amazon.ca/Dudubuy-Transfer-Suzuki-QuadRunner-58690-19B01/dp/B08HT1NXW9/ref=sr_1_4?crid=294WRWPZW1XGP&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cDCzGlS7Ur4Ze4geSINGRxOXLeRqM6yH-dDCtAvEfx_bBt8Xq_4fDItSRZax4iSArn7VUOaFQEJmJSTIYRZo72ltWGImeW2D0N3AR-NH0xPPcGGXbD4rlGczw17Q4--tApY3WQWiRlE3t89efOqJDrLcB3kJYAmD-NhuVqyN0UonpPJi97KJdWWIIlcS3WD4mDW52FLNBZ9oIowxgnMdcDC4dJPGRCU89MZVdvSrEzEmRupT3WvcejKBZFilv8Qfep3EbcPgXIgrEriyvSKf-hHJvPyfYFu4qPRWKacAZJU.sfPZ5ExAIseOwNcWknbvnx64Gad2XBZ97clOBUtqSbU&dib_tag=se&keywords=suzuki+king+quad+300+shifter+cable&qid=1753292881&sprefix=suzuki+king+quad+300+shifter+cable%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-4

the amazon shifter cable came in. Im missing the E-clips on the front diff cable and the gear shift cable. the linkages are 8mm OD. cant get my calipers in those spots but was thinking of getting the 6mm id x 0.8mm thick e-clips

yes, ok. i was looking at the manual and some youtube videos and not seeing anything that could be adjusted. ill look at it tomorrow and hopefully theres some 5 or 10 degree marks on the flywheel that can be marked with paint.

ok, i have and know how to use a timing light, didnt know they were used on a quad. ill go back into the manual at the stator section and figure it out. thanks

Timing light? i went looking and it seems you line up the crank at TDC (compression stroke), like when doing the valve gap, then make sure the cam sprocket marks are level with the head. the recoil only had 2 bolts holding it, someone else was in there messing around and most likely why the exhaust valve was so far out i need to pull the cylinder head cover to verify the timing chain has not skipped a tooth and check the cam/timing chain tensioner while im at it?

the clutch was out of adjustment, bottomed the adjustment screw and backed it out 1/8 turn. still hear the ticking. went to the pull chord side and could hear it over there also. grabbed the impact and pulled the cage off and fired it back up. Oil was pulsing/spraying out like the crankcase is getting pressurized by the piston on each stroke so i need to check the intake valve gap again

the exhaust valve had no gap so i adjusted that, started it up and it ran like crap. pulled the carb again and recleaned it. moved the jet needle clip from the 3rd groove to the 4th groove from the top. fired it right back up, idles good, throttle works right through range with no issue. had the throttle pegged for about 30 seconds and the exhaust started to glow red again. really should get a new plug before i try to tune the carb anymore. got a ticking noise at the back near the clutch, hopefully it can be adjusted away, dont remember hearing it before adjusting the valves, might need to go and double check the intake valve clearance

yes, i had to do 10 posts in order to download it from the forum.

found skidoo guys talking about the grooves, its grooves from the top. the colder the air the thinner the air, groove 1 is lean and groove 5 is rich im running lean on the the 3rd groove so will try 4th groove to richen up the mixture in the 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle range to see how it works. higher elevations have thinner air like colder temperatures have thinner air ill keep you posted

mikuni bst31ss carb for the lt-f4wdx, jet needle clip position is supposed to be in the 4th groove. is that 4th groove from the top of the carb or 4th groove from the bottom? no mention of what each groove means in relation to the operating elevation. hopefully i can find a manual on the mikuni bst31ss carb

the foot gear shifter cable was missing and found one on Amazon.ca suzuki part number 58880-19b11 by some weird company name Dudub??, its 32 inches long. a Youtuber said it was 27.5 inches long but its all i could find and hopefully it works. hopefully now i can downloaded a manual lol. Ill keep you posted how i solve this one, any help is always appreciated

i will be checking the exhaust valves clearance and the intake valve clearance at TDC

the pet cock seems confusing as in there is no fuel shut-off. Ive been running it on the Prime setting and then plug off the vacuum line at the carb and pet cock, then on should actually be off???

took some map sensor cleaner and sprayed all around the carb while it was idling to see if it revved up from a vacuum leak, seems fine

right now Iam at 600 foot elevation but the Quad is going to be living at the 3000 foot to 4500 foot elevation. the needle has 5 grooves and its my understanding that each of those grooves could be used for different elevations but cant find a free service manual to look it up til i get to 10 posts here

are the Nichi rebuild kits any good? i dont think they have spring, washer, o-ring that is missing

ordered 2 bottles of Pinesol and will be pulling the carb and putting it in the ultrasonic cleaner using the pinesol and ill see whats missing

i set the pilot screw at 2-5/8 turn and the needle clip is in the middle of the 5 rings. went looking for diagrams of the carb and i noticed there is supposed to be a spring, washer and o-ring on the pilot screw. I dont remember seeing them when i had the carb apart. do you think the lack of o-ring on the pilot screw would cause a lean mix? im going for 10 posts

checked the voltage at idle and under throttle 13.5 at idle and it drops to 13.1v when i hammer the throttle. regulator/rectifier seems fine

quad is a new to me freebie, pulled carb and cleaned it. got it running and idling nice but mid throttle it craps out and will go down to almost a stall, i release throttle and it just sits there idling away happy as a pig in poop. i was thinking fuel restriction then i noticed the exhaust glowing red in the sunlight. so its running lean