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fbiondip

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Posts posted by fbiondip

  1. Ok make an old school trick to discard possible trouble  sources when igniting motors. Pour a dab of fuel through spark plug hole, screw the plug back in and whith full open throtle try to start it over.Now if that doesn't work ,now you know fuel is not the issue ,it's got to be a spark problem ,  keep on posting the results I'll be aware of your findings. Good Luck !!

  2. Maybe the float level was right when you first took it appart, it may have been dirt not letting the float needle to shut right , try to readjust  float level as it was before blow all passages with air and it should work fine again.caburetors are happy when  cleaned thoroughly . How's your spark plug you haven't mention it through out the entire post they're also happy when cleaned or much better when new. Nice ride BTW,that frame looks neat!!

    • Like 1
  3. If I were You I would stay with Honda. I was a BRP mechanic for quite few years and  I can tell you need a dedicated scanner to fix & clear fault codes, changing ECMs,,instrument clusters etc.  they are no easy cake in terms of maintenance  they use OBD II system which is fine but the trouble is getting into the system due to propietary software that costs thousands not hundreds to scan.besides proper training using that software,Japanese rigs are as powerful as canadians but way more reliable and overall more affordable. I hope this give you an idea of what to look for your next ride .Cheers!! 

  4. It depends on the combined overall weight (Pilot + machine) and the terrain you plan to ride into if you are planning on a tarmac ride I'd rather use close to 14-15 psi

    but if you intend to ride on mud,sand or snow I'd go to the 5 psi side of the spectrum .Low pressures increase grip, High pressures increase tire duration. Nice rides!!

  5. I think you have a variator issue if it runs fine when jacked up and boggs down when sitting on the ground your variator is stuck in high gear mode , a thorough revision on the variator weights and proper belt positioning should solve your problem also check rear clutch spring is in good condition they often brake causing the problem you describe Please keep me posted Good luck!!

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  6. Why do you have to bump start it? does the starter work right or not ?.  assuming you have an undamaged battery,if the starter is not beeing powerful enough you could have  a charging problem that's causing   a decrease in power delivery . as mentioned in the previous post the fault is not the valves rather than  an electric one. 

  7. Water dipped patterns give you a more radical look for your ride with multitude  of designs to chose from and,if  as you say it's cheaper albeit faster than painting the whole thing (three times , one for each layer) I'd go with the former.The only  hard thing is placing the patterns  the right  way because they are very delicate and prone to slip, tear or blur if you're not careful enough when getting the piece out of the bath. I'd recommend you to take a look on youtube videos on how to accomplish the task, there are plentiful of them so you don't loose your time and money .Best of lucks !!

  8. Great explanation I would only like to add how that hose valve You talk, is opened  so the spark that ignites the fuel can be generated, Thistask  is performed by the the pickup coil, a  little magnetic sensor  mounted very close to the magneto/rotor .The purpose of this coil/sensor is to send a voltage signal  to the cdi module (also known as ECU) for  spark to ocurr. Everytime the magneto/rotor tab(s) passes by the pickup coil ,there is a variation in  pickup coil magnetic field  producing a voltage change  going  the ECU , this  voltage variation is also known as Hall effect.  usually on the 0 to 5 V range  .The ECU receives this voltage and sends  the ignition coil a signal to generate a spark  at the designated cylinder. But this is  very curious here, because that signal instead of beeing a voltage is just the opposite, It is the suppresion of  voltage sent to the ignition. coil primary winding  that forces the  magnetic field  inside the ignition coil to collapse ,thus producing a high voltage and a spark in the secondary winding which is connected directly to the spark plug. In other words the signal  sent from the pickup coil to  ECU/CDI  grounds  the ignition coil primary circuit , making the  already existing magnetic field inside the ignition coil  to collapse,  creating  a very high voltage inside the secondary winding ,(usually in the 40.000 V range), which jumps to ground via the plug and  so the spark is created.

      Pickup Coils are also known as transducers.These elements convert one type of energy (in this case magnetic) into another (commonly voltage variation).Transducers are  very useful to measure different variables like position, temperature,light,proximity etc.beeing  the more common sensors used in vehicles for their versatility and simplicity.

  9. Estimated Friend old two strokes manufacturers used to recommend 25:1 even 20:1 fuel to oil ratios but that was when 2T oils were in their early development phase and there were no EPA regulations..nowadays oil manufacturers recommend 50:1 f/o ratios. That is 2% oil in volume (in other words 2 liters of oil for every 100 lts gas).Depending on the oil manufacturer ,there some that even recommend lower f-o ratios like 1.75% .it all depends on what kind of use you intend for your machine  and the smoke ammount you (or your neighboors) are willing to accept .On the safe side if your bike is air cooled a 50:1 (0r 2%) ratio should be fine with no issues whatsoever for a healthy  and prolonged engine  life , then see if smoke is acceptable for your taste, if too much you can lower it down to 1.75% provided you use ONLY high quality API-TC oil suited for your engine, whether is air cooled or water cooled . Synthetic oils are best but pricier, if you can afford the cost you can't go wrong with them,Good luck with your choice!

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