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Hi All, I've been going through the manual trying to get the charging system on this old LTF230 to work properly, and ran down sections 8-6 through 8-11 in the manual; http://www.crservice.dk/Suzuki%20ATV/LTF250/LT-F250_01E.pdf#G2.1000137 I checked the resistance of the generator coils, verified they are within range, checked the open-circuit AC voltage of the generator and found it to vary between about 24-60V on all three legs, and then replaced the regulator/rectifier. When I tested the new regulator/rectifier, the tester probes give me the correct voltages doing the diode test. However, when the engine is running and rectifier attached, it heats up and at an idle produces around 9VDC, but when I rev the engine it drops to around 1VDC and heats up, as most of the energy appears to dissipate as heat. I am testing the DC output with only the 3 wires from the alternator connected up to the regulator unit. Is this a bad regulator/rectifier, or do I need to connect the negative to chassis ground and positive to the battery terminal before I see something around 13V from the regulator? I took off the cover and removed the stator coils, they are in perfect shape and this is not the issue. Also, I have hooked the battery to the starter relay, when i click the starter relay closed the starter motor will turn when it is removed from the engine, but when installed it does not have sufficient force to turn the crankshaft of the engine but simply makes some noise and vibrates. Should I replace the starter motor or take it apart to inspect the brushes? I'd like to get the charging system and starter motor to work; as I'm tired of cranking over the engine by hand. Thanks in advance!

2000-2001 quadmaster 500 LT-A500 ohoh....bought a a new voltage regulator from ebay and it solved a hard start problem. I have only been starting it and not riding it as it was a fixer upper for bro-in-law. Today he came down to pick it up and we went riding up and down the street to find the thing smoking so bad that it nearly caught fire. Do you guys think it is just a cheap voltage regulator and should use the true OEm regulator OR is there is something else that could be cooking these? The original burnt up too. What could be causing these regs to fry? UGH