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By Frank Angerano
So i took a road trip today to look at a Suzuki Eiger! 2006 in perfect condition other then the fact it starts for 30 seconds and shuts down.
Its been sitting for about a year in a shed.
It has a plow and a winch included!!!
Got it for a really good price and all looks good so far.
By Dwight Williams
I have a 99 Kodiak 400 4X4 that I picked up for $300. The previous owner had modified the foot shifter by welding a piece of rebar to it so he could hand shift while plowing. As you can imagine, the allows for much more torque on the shifter than it was designed to have, and he broke the stopper off of the the shift mechanism. No big deal, I ordered the part and put it back together, went through the carburetor and off we go, it runs pretty good.
The first thing I noticed is that when I put the shifter all the way down it goes into reverse, I'm supposed to twist a knob to get it to reverse but this seems to be disabled. Also, once in reverse, it's a bugger to get back out. I have to hold the shifter up, then quickly back down and up again to get it to come out. All forward gears work fine, clutch is tight, no problems.
The reverse cable and lever are in tact and seem to move freely.
My question is this: What does one normally have to do to get this thing into reverse? I assume put it in neutral, twist the knob, kick the shifter down. Does the brake need to be applied? I'm not sure what's going on here, I suspect it's been 'modified' as it goes into reverse without the proper precautions, just not sure if the mods were external on internal.
When it is cold outside, say 35 deg F and colder, it is very difficult to shift to Reverse from neutral. Engine temp doesn't have an effect. I apply the brakes hard with the hand lever and the foot pedal. In another post I read that high idle can affect shifting when the engine temp is warm.
I will try it with lower idle speed once I find the screw. In the interim, can you tell me if there is some sort of adjustment for the shifter?
By Adrian Ciotinga
I recently picked up an ‘07 KFX 700. All was going well, rode it about 40 miles, when it started bogging at low speeds. If I kept the revs higher, I was just fine. Also, a persistent issue since I picked it up is the fairly difficult start (but it is abnormally cold right now and the quad is jetted for the dunes at summertime).
Regarding the complete lack of idle, I have to rev it a couple times to get it to idle after starting it, after which it’s 50/50 whether it remains idling. I don’t have low fuel, but all of this began after I rode it pretty hard and the radiator fan kicked in. Might be overheating, just wanted to hear your opinions.
By Scott Sirr
I need to figure out how to clean/fix or replace my neutral switch assembly On my 2008 Yamaha big bear 400 as generally the neutral light doesn’t come on when it is in neutral. To get it to come on I have to wiggle the foot shifter and hold it in just the right spot.
I have googled it and can’t find much on the 400’s. I can’t find a service manual online and the parts manual is super vague.
I think it is in the right side engine cover area, but not certain.
Any help would be great. thanks
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By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike/ATV. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
Hey guys, I've had my grizz for about 2 years now, and I'd like a louder, more aggressive sound. Any de-baffling methods or things of the such that I should know about? Thanks guys. Any recommendations for any aftermarket silencers that sound really good are welcome
I have a 2001 wolverine just replaced woodruff key because it sheared off. Now i hear a knocking, clunking sound at lower rpms. Haven't driven it in quite a while so I'm not sure if this was a normal sound before. It seems to drive and perform fine. It has me stumped.
I came upon a cool simple sound system called the [bold]Firehouse Technology "Trail Thumper"[/bold] that easily connects to my ATV and for its size really has great sound....its all self contained, I did not need to wire anything or provide power, puts out enough sound to ride or when taking a break enjoy some tunes...and also will charge my cell phone as its battery serves as a back up battery for smartphones....(kinda a cool extra) I have seen the system that mounts to the front of the quad but just wanted something that was easy to take on and off the bike....thought I would share. Here is some video of the product.....comment or opinions?
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