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toonces

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  1. toonces

    toonces

  2. Have a 2011 Grizz 700 and for the diff oil the manual calls for SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil. I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic but as it comes in two different weights I'm not sure which one to get....either the 75W-90 or the 75W-140. The 75W-90 is listed as GL-5 and is recommended for use in 'high-performance vehicles like SUVs, vans and light duty trucks.' The 75W-140 weight is also GL-5 and is recommended for 'high-performance vehicles including sport utility vehicles, vans and light-duty trucks.'
  3. Have a 2011 Grizz 700 and for the diff oil the manual calls for SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil. I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic but as it comes in two different weights I'm not sure which one to get....either the 75W-90 or the 75W-140. The 75W-90 is listed as GL-5 and is recommended for use in 'high-performance vehicles like SUVs, vans and light duty trucks.' The 75W-140 weight is also GL-5 and is recommended for 'high-performance vehicles including sport utility vehicles, vans and light-duty trucks.'
  4. Doing the first big maintenance on the old 2011 700 Grizz and have a couple q's. I've been told that Hondas take only a certain type of coolant and now I'm wondering about my Yamaha. Is there a certain type of coolant I need to look for or will general coolants be good enough? And second...I'm gonna use the No Toil stuff to clean and oil my air filter. Are there different types of No Toil cleaners and filter oils where I need to look for a specific type, or is there just one to get...the No Toil Evolution Kit? And if there are different types whats the type of oil No Toil makes that is right for my air filter? Thanks.
  5. Is it worth it to spend $57 on 3 magnetic Gold Plugs, one for my engine oil and two for my diffs? Do people really find metal filings on these things? Thanks
  6. Doing this for the first time on the old 2011 Grizz 700 and have a few q's? I've found valve clearance specs as such... Intake 0.09–0.13 mm (0.0035–0.0051 in) Exhaust 0.16–0.20 mm (0.0063–0.0079 in) If anyone can confirm that'd be great. I've been told to adjust the valve clearances to the top of the range in anticipation that they will tighten over time. This sound about right? Are these the only two o-rings I'll need to replace? Both #18s in the schematic... Yamaha ATV Parts 2011 GRIZZLY 700EPS 4WD HUNTER - YFM7FGPHA CYLINDER HEAD Diagram And finally, which of those two valve covers are the intake and exhaust? Also, was wondering about replacing my two gear box oil drain plugs and engine oil plug with the magnetic Gold Plugs. But at a price of $60 I'm wondering if they're actually worth it. Do people regularly find metal bits attached to these plugs? Thanks
  7. I'm wanting to run Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in the 700 Griz but I can only find it in either 0W-40 or 5W-40 weights, and the manual says it's ok to use everything BUT those weights...5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40 and 20W-50. Would it be ok to use the Rotella 5W-40 or do I need to stick to what's specified in the manual?
  8. What's a good fuel stabilizer to deal with ethanol in gas?
  9. What's the best way to fix this?... Best idea so far is to clean it all up, sand the bottom side real good and find a piece of durable plastic I can shape and form to the bottom, and sand it as well. Then hold it all together somehow and epoxy the formed plastic to the bottom side. After curing, drill holes on both sides of the crack and thread wire through like shoelaces for support, pull tight and tie off. Seems like I read about some kind of goop you could use in this situation but I forget what it was called. I believe it would take the place of the epoxy. Right now I need advice on what kind of plastic to use and how to source it, as well as what kind of epoxy. I'm all ears.
  10. Got my first quad this past fall a 2011 Grizz 700 EPS, and now that spring is getting close I'm thinking about getting back to work on maintenance stuff. So couple questions... 1. What are some regular maintenance points that are done in the spring on these machines? and 2. What are the regular maintenance points that are done every so many miles that I should look to do? Other than changing out a torn CV boot and cleaning some crap out of the air intake foam in the fall I really haven't done anything to the Grizz. So not knowing its maintenance history I'm assuming it's due for everything...all fluids changed out etc. Oh btw it's only got about 750 mi on it right now. Thanks I'm all ears
  11. Is there such a thing as a battery blanket made for ATV sized batteries? I've also heard of a battery 'plate' which I assume would be put directly under the battery. If someone could point the way to either of these much obliged. Also, maybe any other ideas on how to keep your batt warm that would go directly in the battery compartment? Trying to avoid just throwing a tarp over and putting a space heater under. Need an option with lower wattage consumption. thanks
  12. My mother has just developed a fairly serious case of sciatica, which is a condition where you have some serious leg pain as the result of a pinched sciatic nerve. One of the exercises she does in physical therapy is simply the therapist holding onto her foot and pulling away from her hips as she lays on her back on a table. To replicate this exercise at home they have recommended an inversion table (where you turn upside down and hang from your feet), but since she's not too keen on this idea I'm trying to figure out how to replicate this exercise...which is where the idea of a remotely operated winch comes in. I don't really have a wide range of knowledge when it comes to what equipment is out there that can help me accomplish this goal, but I'm not too shabby at designing things and since I just installed a superwinch on my grizz this is the first idea I've come up with. Basically I'm imagining using some kind of winch whose rope would be worked through a pulley system that would end attached to a shoe which Mom would put on, lie down and use the remote switch to gently stretch the leg. - Winch (if an ATV winch) would be powered by a 12v car battery hooked up to a trickle charger - Safety mechanisms would include... - a light switch dimmer inline between the 12v battery and the winch so speed can be adjusted. - possibly using one of those stretchy rubber exercise resistance bands in the line segment to regulate and ease the pulling - a remote power cut off switch paired with the remote 'in/out' switch Honestly I could just go ahead and make this system myself, and I'm fairly sure it would work, but I thought I'd bounce this idea off a mechanically minded community to see if there are any ideas how I could improve on the design. Since I'm only familiar with ATV winches at this point that's what I've imagined using. But if anyone is aware of a 110v based winch that would be more appropriate, that would surely help in simplifying powering the system since it'll be located indoors. Only requirement for the winch would be that it would need both an in and out function operated by a remote switch. And since the winch would only need to pull between 10-20 lbs it wouldn't need to be nearly as beefy as the ATV type. Sorry for the long write up here but I'm certainly glad for your time and open to your opinions and suggestions.
  13. Long story short ... I'm installing a winch on a 4 wheeler and need to find a bolt just like this one except it needs to be 1/4" longer. Sorry the pics a little out of focus due to distance. It's a 5/16-18 3/4" bolt with a hex head that says E-G 10.9. I searched ebay using the best criteria I could and didn't see anything similar after searching through literally the first 1000 hits. I believe the 10.9 expresses a high strength that I'm really not that concerned about. The replacement doesn't need to be as strong. Anybody have a suggestion on where I can find something like this? If all else fails I can try to do the connection differently but for now I'm just looking for as close a replacement as possible.
  14. Putting in a SW Terra 35 and I've decided the crimp I'm looking at here isn't something I can reproduce so I need to figure out who to take this wire to get the end put back on after I get it shortened to where I need it. Never having delt with wires this big I have no idea who I could go to just locally to get this done. What kind of (electrical?) business would deal with stuff like this? .
  15. Just got this harness in today... It's pulls off 2 power wires from my 12v aux and I'm wondering exactly what would the top two connectors be called... What would these connectors be called if I walked into my local Radio Shack and tried to describe it to the kid there?
  16. Just unboxed the SW and I'm trying to figure out where some of these parts will be installed. For the most part everything seems straight forward but I'm having trouble deciding where these should go... Piece on the right is the solenoid (and is maybe called a 'contactor' in some of the utube install videos i've seen) and piece on the left is the circuit breaker. Best advice I've gotten is to install both of these 'under the hood.' Here's mine... I was hoping to convey a better sense of the space in there but a pic doesn't seem to be doing it really. Anyway the plastic piece that covers all this lies fairly close to the top of everything leaving not a lot of extra room. There's a slim chance I can find a solid piece of something in there to mount the smaller circuit breaker piece to, but far as the larger solenoid piece goes there's only one place I can possibly see it going, and that's in this hole here that goes back just behind the battery... But because it's going back in there so far there's no way of securing it to anything. Best idea would be to get everything generally in place and installed wire wise, then wrap the solenoid in layers of thin sheet styrofoam like material I've seen in packing materials. Wrap as much as possible and slide back into the hole for a snug fit. And if a solid mounting option under the hood doesn't present itself for the smaller circuit breaker piece I suppose it could be installed the same way. Don't like the idea of things shaking around in there but as long as there's no problem with the solenoid wires touching the styrofoam wrap I figure I can just keep a close watch on how the wrapping is wearing and replace when needed. Now onto where to mount the remote plug-in socket... Any suggestions? And last I need to identify a switched power wire somewhere under the hood on the old '11 700 Grizz to hook into. Can I get a good description of this wire or maybe a picture to be sure? Install manual says to use a wire coming from the 'vehicle ignition key switch.' review... 1) Any alternative suggestions as to where to mount the solenoid or ideas on wrapping it up and mounting it in the hold? 2) Ideas on where to install the remote winch plug in port? 3) Idea where to tap into a switched power line under the hood? Picture would be helpful. .
  17. Long story short I had to disconnect my right front caliper to do some other work and now that it's all back together I need to refill and bleed that brake line. First time doing this and to the best of my knowledge the only two 'line ends' I'll need to work with are my right handlebar reservoir and the bleed valve on the caliper itself. Considering the caliper I took off are there any other parts on the bike besides these I need to be concerned about? Now insofar as back bleeding vs. top down bleeding goes...I understand that since bubbles rise, only doing a top down bleed leaves open the possibility of leaving some bubbles in the vertical brake line. But since the bleed valve on the caliper is an inch or more above where the banjo bolt brake fluid lines comes in (on my bike anyway) you would have to do at least some top down bleeding to make sure all the bubbles escape from the caliper out the higher positioned bleed valve. Together these two ideas imply that it might be best to do both some top down and bottom up bleeding. Any thoughts? Anybody have a somewhat educated idea of how quickly air bubbles rise in the vertical line between the caliper banjo bolt and the handle? If they rise slowly enough seems like it would be possible to bleed the whole thing by doing only a top down.
  18. Man I clicked through all 500+ pages of this digital service manual I have for my 11 Grizz 700 and nowhere is this torque spec. So frustrated. Here's the bolt... It's what I'm calling the 'lower brake pad bolt' on the front wheel of the bike. Here's the schematic...it's #15 bottom center... Not a huge deal but if you happen to know where to find this spec without too much trouble I'd appreciate a hand with this one. A link to the graphic or info would be nice too. .
  19. Recently did a boot swap on the old 700 Grizz and found a boogered up thread on the top knuckle ball joint. Can I just order the part and replace this piece myself or does this have to be done by a prof. mechanic? What tool do I use to get it out? Some kind of press maybe? .
  20. Thanks LT. I've read a couple suggestions to use two hammers but I just couldn't visualize the technique so in the end I opted for a tool from Harbor Freight called a ball joint separator I think. Worked like a charm.
  21. '11 700 Grizz here and I'm in the middle of disassembling one of my front knuckles to do a boot replace and I've most def reached a stopping point. So far I've got the caliper off as well as the 2 castle nuts for the knuckle and the 1 for the steering arm, but for the life of me I can't separate any of those joints the castle nuts were securing. I've beat on all of them using a big rubber mallet with no luck at all. Is there something else holding these joints together I haven't found maybe? My next ideas are to try to detach the shock from the lower control arm so maybe that'll give way a little easier, as well as letting some PB blaster soak into the joints before pounding on them again. Thought I should ask on her first before using the PB though. Last time I had to separate a joint like these was on my '96 Cherokee replacing one of my steering linkages. Had to get a special 2 prong fork tool to insert into the joint and pound away before it came apart. For some reason I don't think that'll be the answer for this one though. I'm all ears.

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