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It's time to replace the shocks and struts. Looking for some stiffer springs than the OEM as I use this for farm work and I put heavy loads on the rear and haul small trailers frequently. I've seen a couple aftermarket offerings that say they're 10% or so heavier duty. Any other options for something a little stronger / stiffer? Thanks.

The saga of the fan continues. The Pin attempt in the fan shaft failed. I then moved on to trying to weld the fan hub to the fan shaft. I took it for a run the weld broke. Now it was truly F'ed. To recap the dealer price, they want $400 + CND for a replacement fan assembly. I searched all sorts of after market places and no one carried one. Ebay had some used ones but they were $120 USD + Conversion rate for something as old as what I have. I went to Amazon and eventually settled on this. amazon link What I found... and was amazed... was that the fan mounted to the Suzuki fan assembly bracket. I was prepared to manufacture my own mount conversions... It also came with "Harpoon mounts" (nylon zip tie like things that go straight through the rad. Anyways it mounted to the original bracket. It fit perfectly. Cut the electrical plug off replaced it with the Suzuki... all good. Let the quad heat up, thermo coupler kicked in the fan circuit, polarity was right... all was good.... Fan is under the circuit fuse rating. so I finally have a solid fan solution. $34 CND vs $400+ CND

Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile. When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end. When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing. fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day. What I know. Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin. When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad. now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out. But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year. Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives? I even thought large computer case brushless fan. smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300. They run standard 12v DC. Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?

View File 2004 Sportsman 600 700 Service Manual This is a Polaris service manual for a 2004 Sportsman 600/700 Submitter John Miele Submitted 08/31/2018 Category Polaris ATV  

View File 2009-2012 Honda MUV 700 Big Red 700 Service Manual 2009-12 Honda MUV 700 Big Red 700 Service Manual Submitter flyinbrian365 Submitted 08/28/2018 Category Honda UTV  

View File 2007 Polaris 700 800 x2 EFI Service Manual 2007 Polaris 700 800 x2 EFI Service Manual Submitter ktxl Submitted 08/08/2018 Category Polaris ATV  

I need some advice on my 700 kingquad. I recently went out into some deep water (not sure if this is the issue or not) I did not submerge past the seat all the way, however I did wheelie out of it with the back end submerged for 5 seconds. I realized after I did this that you could hear the engine going up in rpm's but there was no power to the wheels after a point. You could only hear the whailing of the engine. Could someone lead me in the right direction... basic knowledge would be to check air filter, belt housing for water, spark plug. Otherwise I am at a loss. Thanks in advance!

I'm going to check the valve clearance on my 2011 Grizz 700 for the first time and I'm also wanting to check the timing, but I'm not sure how to do it. What tool (light gun?) do I need for this job and how is it done?

Feul pump went out. Replaced. At times quad cuts out like its not getting gas. Saw article on new pump needs to be calibrated. Told how to go into a service mode. Does not tell how to calibrate after going into mode. Can anyone shed light on this procedure.

HELP, i have a 2009 yamaha grizzly 700 yfm7fgpy special edition with a defective fuel pump and am wanting to know how to test it to know if it is defective or not

I recently picked up a king quad 700 that doesn't run in the hopes of getting it running by spring. It had been previously taken apart some and a few pieces are missing in the engine, but the frame is complete and in good condition. The motor will need a piston, rings, cylinder, cams, and a few misc parts that are missing. Also the cases will need to be split to remove the pieces of piston that are in the crankcase. The piston blew up at high rpm and did a number on the cylinder so I'm trying to find out if it would be worth rebuilding this motor it buying another engine to swap in. There may be more damage to this engine that I can see so I was wondering how bad the insides of it could be considering it destroyed the piston. I have found a motor for 1200 plus 200 shipping, the only problem is I don't have that much now and I would have to save up a while before being able to afford it. Any suggestions appreciated.

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Just unboxed the SW and I'm trying to figure out where some of these parts will be installed. For the most part everything seems straight forward but I'm having trouble deciding where these should go... Piece on the right is the solenoid (and is maybe called a 'contactor' in some of the utube install videos i've seen) and piece on the left is the circuit breaker. Best advice I've gotten is to install both of these 'under the hood.' Here's mine... I was hoping to convey a better sense of the space in there but a pic doesn't seem to be doing it really. Anyway the plastic piece that covers all this lies fairly close to the top of everything leaving not a lot of extra room. There's a slim chance I can find a solid piece of something in there to mount the smaller circuit breaker piece to, but far as the larger solenoid piece goes there's only one place I can possibly see it going, and that's in this hole here that goes back just behind the battery... But because it's going back in there so far there's no way of securing it to anything. Best idea would be to get everything generally in place and installed wire wise, then wrap the solenoid in layers of thin sheet styrofoam like material I've seen in packing materials. Wrap as much as possible and slide back into the hole for a snug fit. And if a solid mounting option under the hood doesn't present itself for the smaller circuit breaker piece I suppose it could be installed the same way. Don't like the idea of things shaking around in there but as long as there's no problem with the solenoid wires touching the styrofoam wrap I figure I can just keep a close watch on how the wrapping is wearing and replace when needed. Now onto where to mount the remote plug-in socket... Any suggestions? And last I need to identify a switched power wire somewhere under the hood on the old '11 700 Grizz to hook into. Can I get a good description of this wire or maybe a picture to be sure? Install manual says to use a wire coming from the 'vehicle ignition key switch.' review... 1) Any alternative suggestions as to where to mount the solenoid or ideas on wrapping it up and mounting it in the hold? 2) Ideas on where to install the remote winch plug in port? 3) Idea where to tap into a switched power line under the hood? Picture would be helpful. .

Good Afternoon! Woke up this morning to these pictures, how difficult a repair is this? I think this is just a seal? How do you get the driveshaft out to replace it? Sorry this is my first issue with this bike, trying to keep the cost down.