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LMI

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LMI last won the day on May 27

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About LMI

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  • Location Sudbury, ON, Canada
  1. LMI

    2011 KQ 500 speedometer

    Does anyone know if this part he is looking for is also good for a 2005 KQ 700 ? In my case the odometer is not working, could be to hide the age of the bike, but would be nice to know how far down a trail I've been... counting stumps has proven unreliable...
  2. LMI

    2005 KQ 700 Fan Not Spinning

    Well... after all was said and done, I wasn't happy with the connection point. Still too much play to be reliable...I figure the nut, even with lock tight, would end up spinning off. I ended up welding the hub to the shaft... fek it. nice smooth even spin now. no wobble. no play. Was visiting my brother over the weekend, an industrial mechanic, and brought the fan with me. He had a MIG. After a few wobbly pops, lots of discussion, trying a few things... the welder was a good choice. if it breaks now... its going to blow apart into a million pieces. I'll take in on a local run to give it a whirl before hunting season. Opens in 2 weeks. This chapter ends.
  3. LMI

    2005 KQ 700 Fan Not Spinning

    Needed to find a little time to execute the plan, so last weekend found all the bits I needed. Here is what it looks like. Pin hole went well. my hack saw wasn't wide enough for the pin, so I resorted to a grinding disk mounted on a drill. The pin groove you can see is a touch off center despite my efforts to keep it centered. if it wobbles too much I always have a second chance, I can make another groove 90 to the first and try to better center it. In the other pic you can see it all seated together. A new problem surfaced. the fan's hub collar, you can see it is a few mm off of the motor spindle.... when I took this out the fan only had a couple of mm of clearance on the rad side. So I was a little concerned about that so I cut the hub groove a little deeper.... now unfortunately what happens is when I tighten up the nut for the fan motor shaft it bottoms out before snugging the fan on the pin and it is a little sloppy. So my next plan is to mod one or 2 washers as spacers allowing the nut to tension up the fan. If my rad clearance is insufficient, I think I can add some washers to the rad mount bolts to stand it off the rad a little more. I don't even know if I am working with stock parts on this. certainly the fan assembly mount frame is stock as it lines up and the fan motor appears to be stock as the mount holes line up to the frame, but I won't know if the fan is stock. It may have been a replacement or something. Wish me luck
  4. LMI

    2005 KQ 700 Fan Not Spinning

    So I've noodled on this a little and here is my plan of attack. I'm going to drill a hole in the fan motor shaft perpendicular to the shaft and insert a steel pin. Then I am going to notch the fan hub across the center hole. Basically create a cam. Then apply lock-tite and a nut. The fan should be held securely between the perpendicular pin and the nut. now when the shaft spins the fan has to spin with it due to the pin. As long as the nut stays put, the ping shouldn't slip out of the notch. It's similar to a spin cast fishing reel, I have some where there is a cross pin to keep the spool from spinning and the drag nut keeps it all together. There is enough of a notch on the shaft to be able to grab it in a vice without wrecking the threads. Then it is a matter of trying to free hand drill a perfectly perpendicular hole (I think we all know how that will turn out) on Lord knows how tough a steel shaft. For the hub notch maybe a dremil or ort sort of rotating mini tool, or those little reciprocating saws not sure what they are called but blade slides back and forth like barber clippers. worse case is I take a useless fan and shaft, and drill a no so perpendicular hole (can bend pin to compensate I guess) and the fan wobbles touch until I can adjust.
  5. LMI

    2005 KQ 700 Fan Not Spinning

    So here is what I have. I applied direct battery tonight and it made the same noise no spin. removed the front rack, front body, and removed the fan assembly. Once out the fan just fell off the shaft. Looking at it briefly it just seems to have lost the nut. however looking at it more closely, with the fan shaft hole seemingly non-circular and the cam like part of the motor shaft, I am beginning to think the whole thing should be cam'ed and that the CAM is stripped. Anyone know how this is supposed to look? Can't tell from the Bike Bandit diagram. Am I pooched here? Do I have to replace the entire assembly? As you can see it has already had some work done there is a rough cut rubber gasket under the motor casing. Let me know what you guys think.
  6. LMI

    Help with 2006 Suzuki King quad 700

    I run a 2005 KQ 700. Ryan did you have luck on closing this one out? In case I need it for the future!
  7. LMI

    Suzuki King Quad starting issue

    Actually now that I have posted that pick, would you mind posting a pick of yours including your battery tie down bracket. apparently I should have one.
  8. LMI

    Suzuki King Quad starting issue

    I also have the 2005 KQ 700. I am not sure if this is the original grounding location, but this is where mine is. Its right there in the batter area the yellow wire.
  9. LMI

    07 Kingquad 450

    Not familiar with the KQ 450 unit, but on my KQ 700 there are topics about the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). not sure if it applies to your bike though. They talk about jumpering pins on the diagnostic port to display on the LCD the position sensor being either above or below or on target. Something I still need to check on mine so haven't been through it myself though.
  10. I had a cracked spark plug on a mower that would do something similar, except run rough once warm. replaced the plug and problem eliminated. from the removed plug and charring it looked like it would intermittently fire in the cylinder but sometime arc along the body.
  11. Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile. When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end. When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing. fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day. What I know. Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin. When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad. now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out. But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year. Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives? I even thought large computer case brushless fan. smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300. They run standard 12v DC. Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
  12. This is good info. I just tried to back my LTA-700 KQ out of my shed and the batter was dead as well. Now, much longer than your few days, but I wouldn't expect a brand new battery to drain even after a couple of weeks. I'll have to try what you did to see what I have going on if anything. It was dead a week ago I put a trickle charger on it for a couple of hours and it did start right up, I let it idle another 2 hrs or so as I shuttled wood from my pickup to my wood pile and then put it away. a week later it was dead again. This time I charged it over night and I set the battery and it fired right up. volt meter was acting a little strange … across the battery terminals was reading 20v, then it just started dropping 19.7, 19.2, 18.9, 18.7....did have the patience to see where it bottomed out. Changed the batteries in the VM and no change.
  13. When I clean a pickeral I make the following cuts. * angled but verticle from belly to behind head. * from behind head to rear dorsal with knife ripe only following the rib cage not cutting through it. * at rear dorsal penetrate knife through along spine exiting in bottom center line tail side of the anus * follow spine to remove fillet to tail. * back to head of fish, feather (follow ribs) our the rib cage. Remove fillet from carcass. * skin the fillet. * at this point laying the fillet flat running you hand along it you will still feel bones. These can be removed by making a VERY narrow V out of the fillet just above and below the lateral line about the length of the rib cage This leaves the fillet looking “forked” at the shoulder to about half way back on the fillet but boneless. ive seen other techniques that seem to be faster where they slab off the side ribs and all lift the first few ribs and pull them out which also removes these additional bones, then skin it. It seems way faster. I tried but seem to rip off too much meat
  14. They call em snakes, hammer handles, spawn of satan... the poor Northern Pike. They are somewhat slimy, they have a stronger flavor than pickerel, and the bones... If these things were boneless there would be none left on the planet I am certain. There are boneless filet techniques for Pike but I think the main reason people can't take them apart is because they don't know how they are put together. Learn the lore of the pike and it will open a new world. Regardless I love Pike and I think they are an under utilized resource. Ground pike balls are not the only way. Especially pre-May opener, or even may opener (we had snow last year) when the weather is cold, one of the ways to get around all the bones even with the boneless techniques is to cube the meat and make soup. Here is my recipe In a large pot cube (1/2" x 1/2") 4 medium potatoes and 2 large carrots. Coarsely slice 1/2 a large white onion. Cube up 2-3 stalks of celery ( I like to use the celery core, it tends to be a little bitter to eat but has the leafy sprouts that act with a parsley). If I use the core I add 2 more stalks, otherwise 3. Fill with water (to a point where it won't boil over)… yeah I know not that accurate but its a bish recipe... we don't measure Black pepper to taste 2-3 heaping table spoons of powdered chicken broth (this is also the salt, I don't add salt) bring all to a boil and simmer until potatoes an carrots are tender add cubed pike meat, and raise temp until it is all at vigorous boil (the pike will be easily cooked by this time. In a small bowl crack 2 full eggs and coarsely wisk it with a fork and drizzle into the boiling water remove pot from heat and serve (warn starving bush guests not to melt their face on the nuclear soup) This is super easy for camp, potatoes, carrots, onions, celery (celery less so) can keep for a long time. The powered soup broth is shelf worthy. We use potable water we cart in. Just need the fresh pike. Enjoy.... I do !
  15. LMI

    Maiden Run

    will do … the wally batch from opening day cleaned and eaten. the follow day wife and I, those are cleaned and frozen. We went out again this morning and but only got 1 (eaten for lunch), think they are moving into their post spawn locations now, 3 days of 20 C temps and bright sunny days... Where I am Northern Pike are open all year round so I was out Friday trolling for some large pike, caught a couple of small ones... turned them into a soup... I'll post the recipe in the other forum.

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