Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
Several months ago, I finally got around to fixing the bayou. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel selector switch, hoses and fuel filter, and she ran great. Only had 2 minor issues since then where, at higher speeds, it acted like it was choking out when I let off the throttle.
Lately I've noticed if I let it go for more than a week, it almost drains the battery dead trying to start. I initially thought battery, but after inspecting I found very little if not any fuel flow through the line until it starts and runs.
I'm a little baffled and don't have much time to mess with it as most my free time right now is spent on getting my rv up and ready for hunting season in the next 3 weeks. So any help on quick diagnosis checks would be helpful. Otherwise I'll just keep starting it every 3-4 days to keep things primed until I'm done hunting.
Oh, and another question on a different topic. Does anybody know what the mounting brackets on the front rack are for? I'm referring to the 2 angled metal tabs with threaded holes that are located on the left, near your knee when sitting on the quad?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Just picked this up at a yard sale, runs and drives..color coded wires for battery were backwards, Meaning a red wire was used for negative and a black for positive....
Upon bringing it home decided to boost the battery and walked away giving it a small charge prior to starting it..came back to find battery slightly smoking and my Green light for power (neutral) was no longer lit up...Still starts when i pull start it with key on.
Turn key on and no starter spin up, no lights
Id like to get my Electric start working, What could be the problem, Where does one start.
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
I am looking to see why my 2005 Grizzly 660 won't crank. I have set the valves but suspect a loose timing chain.
When working to remove the valve cover I found a "cap tensioner case" - parts #25 - #299 on Babbitts site.
The cover seems to bridge the valve cover and the cylinder head. What the hell is it and what surprises will I find if I remove it?
Uncharted territory for me.
By Richard Western
I am hoping someone might be able to help me out. My Kawasaki 300 4x4 has an issue where it doesn't seem to want to go into neutral and also it will shift into reverse without using the lockout knob.
If anyone can suggest what to look at it would be very much appreciated.
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.