Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello Team!  Hopefully someone can help me.  I've been to the Suzuki forum and its pretty dead.  I should have been on this site a while ago as I own a Canam, Hondas and a RZR!

Anyways issue is the ATV won't start.  Friend gave it to me to try get running.  They installed a Amazon carb and machine did the same thing.  This machine has 1100 miles and is not beat.  Appears to have led a gentle life.

So the first thing I did was ask for the original carb.  They do have and brought it over.  But first I changed out all the old gas and put new in.  Got it to start but would not idle.  But could ride it around yard.  Its a manual, went through all 5 gears.  Runs like normal but would not idle.

So I got a Shindy rebuild kit and rebuilt the original carb.  Reinstalled and almost the same thing.  Starter spins and it tries to catch but doesn't until it does.  Then it seems to run ok.  Idles high but after a while it will go down.

So I take tank off and give a very good cleaning.  Took off the fuel petcock.  All looks good.  No fuel in the vacuum line so I believe its working as it should.  Cleaned carb again.  Adjusted valves.  Did not need.  Reinstalled everything and same exact thing.  Spins like a maniac for 10 or more seconds before it will start.

Spark plug is black.  Brand new one too.  I checked the spark and did not see any.  Googled how to do it and I was doing it right, tried again, now I have spark.  Hmmm.  Kept checking and always had it.

My battle plan now is to clean the Amazon (Chy-na) carb and install that one.  If it does the same exact thing I'll figure its not the carb.  If it does something different this will tell me nothing as I don't trust the Amazon carbs!

But now I've read that these models Eigers have issues with the fly wheel magnets coming loose.  And affecting spark.  Anyone know if this sounds right?  Maybe if the spark is out of time it makes it harder to start but once started the running engine can overcome that?

Oh yeah, compression is 130, spec is 142.  Not sure I trust my Harbor frieght compression tester though.  I'm bringing it to work to get the gauge calibrated.

Sorry so long winded but I like to give all the details I can for the people in the know!  Anything anyone can suggest I do?  Thanks for your time!

Edited by Sled Dog
Posted

Have you checked the air fuel screw to see how its adjusted? Black plug is rich and given it's hard to start I'm betting it's over fueling trying to start. Chinese carb doesn't prove much bc they are so poorly set up sometimes they just won't run. Could also be valves slightly tight or timing a tooth off. 

Posted

Thanks for the reply!  I have it adjusted 2.5 turns out.  I've also had it adjusted all the way in and it runs the same.

What puzzles me is when its running, it runs strong through all RPM.  But its hard to start.

Posted

So today I put the Chy-na carb in. Same thing but worse! Would turn over fast and only start if you gave it throttle. More throttle than you should have to. Would not idle at all. 

So I put the original back in. Same thing, hard to start, have to give throttle but now it idles. Rode it around yard through all the gears, full throttle 5th gear, plenty of power. 

I don’t know what to check next! I’m kinda at a loss. Not sure if it would run so well if the flywheel magnets are loose. battery holds charge. All lights work fine. Don’t want to tear side of motor off for no reason. 

Frustrated...

Posted

Yes it is part of the carb. It unscrews from carb and there is a needle.  I think it has been replaced. The ATV will start with no choke. But hard!  Even when engine is warm it starts hard. The choke appears to slide and move as it should. 

I don’t mind taking things apart but I don’t know what to take apart or check!!!

Posted

Timing being off can cause all kinds of issues. My son's 300 would run perfect up to 60% throttle and then die off. Timing was 2 whole teeth off. Pretty good chance it's off and causing the issue. That is assuming you adjust valves correctly to spec. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Admin
      View File 2013-2016 Polaris RZR 570 service manual
      Download the 2013-2016 Polaris RZR 570 service manual PDF for complete factory repair, maintenance, troubleshooting, and diagnostic procedures. This comprehensive Polaris RZR 570 repair manual covers all major systems including engine service, EFI fuel injection, transmission and clutch repair, drivetrain maintenance, suspension, steering, brakes, electrical troubleshooting, wiring diagrams, torque specifications, and factory maintenance schedules.
      Designed for RZR owners, mechanics, trail riders, racers, and DIY enthusiasts, this factory-style service manual provides detailed step-by-step instructions and diagrams for maintaining, troubleshooting, repairing, and rebuilding the Polaris RZR 570 side-by-side UTV.
      Topics covered include:
      Polaris RZR 570 engine repair
      EFI fuel injection diagnostics
      CVT clutch and transmission troubleshooting
      Drivetrain and differential service
      Suspension and steering maintenance
      Brake system repair
      Electrical troubleshooting and wiring diagrams
      Oil change procedures and maintenance intervals
      Torque specs and factory service data
      Polaris RZR diagnostic procedures
      Popular related searches:
      2013 Polaris RZR 570 service manual PDF
      Polaris RZR 570 repair manual
      RZR 570 wiring diagram
      Polaris RZR torque specs
      RZR 570 clutch problems
      Polaris RZR maintenance schedule
      Polaris UTV factory service manual PDF
      This Polaris factory repair manual is ideal for owners looking to maintain, troubleshoot, repair, or upgrade their RZR 570 for trail riding, recreational off-roading, hunting, racing, and utility use. Whether you're performing routine maintenance or a complete rebuild, this manual provides the factory information needed to keep your Polaris RZR 570 running at peak performance.
      Submitter Admin Submitted 05/30/2026 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By LMI
      Hi all.  New to the forum & quads.  Seems like a great place full of info.
      I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700.  I need a battery.  I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types.  I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire.  RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140.  Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
      from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS.  How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
      And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
    • By Jdeaton011989
      Hi all. I have a timberwolf 250 2nd that will not start.. I thought it was out of time bc the guy I got it from said it just quit on him. The tensioner had a nut welded to it and it was like2 teeth off. I installed new tensioner and chain and it still will not start. It has fire and it will not hit off brake cleaner. It has compression. Haven't put a gauge but I'm sure it will crank and run with what it has. I double checked my work and it's still in time. Spot on. Both valves move. I'm about to put a feeler gauge on them and I'll cone back but other than that any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...