Quantcast
Jump to content

MarkinAR

Members
  • Posts

    544
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    38

MarkinAR last won the day on September 17

MarkinAR had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

MarkinAR's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

133

Reputation

  1. If it fired on carb cleaner then it's a fuel delivery problem. It really should run for a second or two on carb cleaner...if it doesn't do that, then I'd suspect fuel being an issue as well as intake in some fashion whether it's a bad intake boot, sticky valve, broken timing chain. Lot of possibilities.
  2. Nothing rips like a 2 stroke wound up tight. I've looked for a decent 250r forever around here and the 3 i've found in 2 years folks wanted a mint for. One day....
  3. Usually if there is a mismatch between CDI and harness, it has to be all of one or the other. Also, stator may differ since it's a different wiring harness.
  4. The sound doesn't go away with RPM, it just gets faster than the ear can easily hear. Man, that sounds bad. I'd take a look at the timing chain if it has one...not real familiar with that motor.
  5. My guess would be you almost have to take what you can get on that machine. Since it's not super popular, there probably isn't the aftermarket support of say a HL1000 or Outlander.
  6. Choke cable into the carb body maybe? It's been a WHILE since I had one of those carbs apart so I can't remember.
  7. @Finnforest It's fine to run the same size tires front and back. If you were to run it on pavement for miles the ratio difference would become an issue over time, but for a 300 that will never be fast or used for long distance highway travel, it's fine.
  8. Stator output is not constant as it is RPM dependent. Likely minimum would be at or above 12V with high RPM pushing it to quite a bit higher with the regulator keeping the system around 13ish so it doesn't burn the electronics out.
  9. Love the intelligent banter above on CDI's. For a simpleton like me, I'll distill it down: If everything else tests good, it's a bad CDI. There's no at home test for an average DIY guy like me to conclusively test a CDI....so all things ruled out, it only leaves one option. Occam's Razor, if you will.
  10. There's not much of anything you can't do yourself with a little time and research. Good work.
  11. @SashaGraves21 If the noise seems to be in the general tire area I would suspect a bad wheel bearing. Bearings heat and expand under use so that probably explains why you hear it after riding a bit. But that's just a guess.
  12. Ended up trading this one as it sat for a 9mm. Not a bad trade having only $50 in it. As far as an ignition switch, I'm not sure. Lots of Suzuki's had them, but that's about all I can remember in older stuff. Newer Can Am's have a 3 way but that's a chipped key that requires an ECU. I would bet something like the link below would work, but can't confirm since I don't have either available to check. https://www.hqpowersports.com/p/ignition-key-switch-1987-1995-suzuki-lt-80s-lt-80-s-atv-new/
  13. Could be a bit of water in the gas or trash in the throttle body. I'd drain the tank and refill with fresh non ethanol gas and see if that helps. Then move on to cleaning the throttle body. Might also take a look at the plugs, they may just be coincidentally crapping out.
  14. I put a 2x6 about 3 feet long on the bead with one end on the ground and drive my truck up the board like a ramp. Usually pops the bead right off.
  15. Sounds like the o-rings in the MC aren't sealing completely and letting a bit of pressure escape back into the reservoir. Had a MC on a Chevy do that a while back.

×
×
  • Create New...