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MarkinAR last won the day on September 22

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About MarkinAR

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  • Location Little Rock, AR, USA

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  1. P1619 is just related to oil change. Looks like the throttle cable housing is just broke so i'm sure replacing the cable will resolve it. But that's just a guess.
  2. SunF makes a great knockoff of the big horns at a fraction of the price. That tread pattern is one of the best all around performing tires out there.
  3. How is the battery? Seems like some of the Yamaha's use the battery as a capacitor, essentially lowering the system voltage to 12ish volts. Without a battery or with a bad battery it may be dumping 14-17V into the system and burning components. If the battery isn't the issue then I'd shuck the plastics and start running down the wiring harness from the battery forwards. It's either a jump in voltage or a direct short to ground that's burning the CDI. Curious though why it wouldn't pop a fuse if it's a direct short...
  4. There are really only 2 ways to toast a CDI and that's a bad regulator or direct short somewhere in the harness.
  5. Rick's CDI is the best for Honda by a mile, maybe google and see if there is one for yours? Otherwise good 2nd hand OEM from ebay or new if still available on Partzilla, Babbitts etc. The chinese cheap ones are just terrible. I've had good luck with good 2nd hand OEM parts on ebay.
  6. Most likely CDI. Normally when you get spark when releasing the start button that's not actual spark but instead is residual voltage bleeding off from the starter circuit. You can always try baking the CDI for 5 minutes or so at 250 and see if it'll start then. CDI's usually go bad when the ceramic in the capacitor gets cracked and it gets a bit of moisture. If it'll start after that, you know it's the CDI and time to get a new one. Don't buy the cheap $30 chinesium one though, those are only about 2 out of 10 good new in box.
  7. @Gary Korneman Makes a good point here. I have seen a few ATV's that have a reverse rev limiter and sometimes that causes some really odd issues. Might look into that and see if your machine had it and how to bypass it to rule it out.
  8. If it's like the older big bear i had, there is a linkage adjustment on the shifter. For some reason the shifter and clutch adjustment are on the left side on some Yamahas. Might adjust the linkage so it's a bit tighter and see if that does it. Then try clutch adjustment. If all of the above fails, I'd lean towards a shifter fork worn smooth out and need replacing. But this is all just guessing though to give you something to troubleshoot. Can you push the shifter down and hold it and get it to disengage gear? I had one do that once. Never got into it though to work on it. Ended up selling it as is.
  9. Yes. hold the throttle wide open and yank it a few times.
  10. good investigative work! I use Babbitt's or Partzilla to find the part number of what i need and then search ebay, amazon, etc and usually find it quite a bit cheaper than dealer. Just have to dig through the diagrams and find what you need.
  11. maybe Babbitt's online or rocky mountain ATV for OEM.
  12. About any coil wire should work that is long enough. Usually you can unscrew the plug boot and unscrew the wire from the coil and replace it. I've used skinny auto plug wires before. Anything that will fit into the plug boot and has a good thick silicone shield.
  13. Great work, quite the improvement.
  14. Pretty sure that's the spring for the decompression mechanism. Without it, the dowel just bounces up and down in it's hole....not a great idea. It's probably pressure specific also, so you probably need the OEM spring.

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