Quantcast
Jump to content

MarkinAR

Members
  • Content Count

    515
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    35

MarkinAR last won the day on April 2

MarkinAR had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

128 Excellent

About MarkinAR

  • Rank
    Experienced Contributor
  • Location Little Rock, AR, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have an old 24" 3/8 extension that I use as a long punch and knock the caps out with a BFH. It's crude, but works.
  2. I'd lean more towards the Outlander. They will haul ass and still have fenders to keep you from getting hosed every time you jump off in a mud hole.
  3. Float valve not sealing properly in the float seat. Is it a chinese clone? Those usually have hard rubber and can cause all kinds of issues. Try taking the float valve out and polishing the seat with a q-tip in a drill and a touch of carb cleaner and hopefully it'll seal.
  4. I gave up on Partzilla last year and buy new parts from Babbitt's. I get them in a couple days every time. Can Am parts I usually get from Can Am Guy. Partzilla went to crap due to massive orders during 'Rona builds last year and have never recovered.
  5. You did on the Kodiak so it's possible you have to on the BB.
  6. Glad you're getting it moving forward. Always use an impact to break the clutch nuts BTW. It takes very little hammering from an impact but tons of slow torque with a break over bar. Hardened steel in the threads just behaves that way. You're very likely to break something with a break over bar and rarely likely with an impact taking it apart.
  7. Pretty common for that reverse lockout to grenade and parts disappear. Not sure where the weakness is there but most of them do that. Glad you got it worked out and moving towards repaired.
  8. You're right there, the rebuild kits are non existent. There are still a few new 424s from wide open for the rancher bodies but no rebuild kits.
  9. You're right, I forgot that 1st to reverse really is almost a half shift. I can't remember for sure, but I think the cam for the reverse lockout is on the clutch side and if so, you should be able to get at it just by removing the clutch cover. There's probably a service manual in the downloads section of this forum. Just check the minimum qualifications to be able to download.
  10. If not swamped, most all of the Japanese motors before the early 2000's will almost run indefinitely. I've seen old Hondas that the rings are so gone they look like a fog machine but still run like a top. Been playing with a BRP lately and while the power is a blast, it's just not a Japanese machine. It likes to kill it's own parts regularly.
  11. In the last year I've bought a couple ATV's and a Nissan Altima that were all great machines...but were suffering from severe lack of maintenance. Why is it so hard to just check routine wear items? Grr.....
  12. Pretty common to bypass the neutral safety switch because it can be inconvenient to have to click back down to neutral to hit the start button. In mud bikes (every Honda 300 or 420 i've owned) I always bypass the neutral safety and reverse lockout because it SUCKS to be in a mudhole and struggle with the shifter and reverse lockout. On the bayou though, I "think" reverse lockout is cam driven on the side of the motor internally and pretty common for that cam to rotate and lock itself out. If it were mine, I'd prefer reverse lockout always be bypassed, but there is a danger there. If yo
  13. If the 2nd replacement was OEM, was it used OEM? Pretty unusual for an OEM reg/rect to not last forever, but anything is possible. I'd check the stator phases and make sure they're all within spec.
  14. Check the oring between the intake manifold boot and head. I had a Bayou 220 that had the same issue and out of curiosity I tried a new oring and that was it. Looked fine, but must have had a flat spot.

×
×
  • Create New...