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Similar Forum Topics
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By crankin
I have a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4. It used to start right up. Then all of a sudden it wouldn't crank. I have a schematic for it so I started tracing the problem. I had no power at the starter solenoid. According to the schematic the power comes from the neutral switch and through the starter circuit cut out relay. I cannot locate the cut out relay on this machine.. If I apply power to the relay it will crank with the start button.
The neutral switch is hard to get to with all the brackets on this thing. I did find out from all my research that if I apply the rear brake lever it will start.
Does anybody know if the cut out relay exists and where it might be found?
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By Zrach
I wanted to share a successful workaround for a "no-spark" issue on a 2009 LT-A400.
This is specifically for cases where the CDI has been diagnosed as faulty, but the age or condition of the machine makes the cost of a brand-new OEM unit hard to justify.
Note: This modification compromises the factory “no-start” circuits.
On some malfunctioning CDI units the internally damaged circuitry is only partial.
Feeding full time power to the Parking Brake pin, the unit is triggered to bypass the internal fault and produce a healthy consistent output to the Ignition coil.
The Modification
See the second diagram attached below for the wiring specifics.
The Result:
The machine has clocked over 1,000km since this repair and is still running strong with no ignition dropouts.
⚠️ IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNING ⚠️
Please be aware that this modification compromises the factory safety "no-start" circuits.
The machine will now start in gear. The safety interlock involving the handbrake is no longer functional. The machine can move unexpectedly if the starter is pressed while in gear. Proceed at your own risk. If you sell the machine or let others ride it, ensure they are fully aware that these factory safety buffers have been removed.
Faulty CDI Workaround.pdf
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By PupATV
Hey guys! I am new here to the forum and need some help getting my Polaris 325 Magnum 2001 Running.....So I got it for free and it has never run quite right...I put a aftermarket carb on it last year and it was running fine but it only went like 20 maybe 25mph max......But then the needle and seat sealed leaked within a yeah and it flooded it REALLY bad so I changed the oil because it was full of gas. So then I put a genuine Polaris carb on it and I have it set to all the factory specs, but it was still not running right....So I replaced the ignition coil and the spark plug and that solved one of the problems I had (It would bog down and stop running when i would go up a hill) But it still didn't have that much "Punch" to it like my Kawasaki Prairie 300 ans Suzuki Kingkuad 300.....So I replaced the CDI but it's still not running right! It's acting like it rich kinda....So it runs mostly okayish when I have the airfilter on but the top of the airbox off but as soon as I put the airbox lid on it like REALLY bogs down and wants to stall really bad. I have the carb at the factory specs and it has a pretty new fuel pump so I have no ideas whats going wrong! It still nly has a top speed of only about 30-35mph and it sounds like it's choking the whole time! Thank you for sticking to the end, and I hope you guys can help me!
-PupATV
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By bhristianzx12
I have acquired a free 92 Polaris 350L 4X4. Ive replaced carburetor from ebay, replaced spark plug, im trying to pull start but sounds like it doesnt want to fire. Spark is a bright orange spark (checked with spark plug tester), replaced plug, pre mixed gas from an external gravity feed tank. Compression test good. Anyone got any recommendations for me?
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By fwsamm
Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
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