What is with the Justice System???
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By Ajmboy
So we are almost a month into winter and I've been so busy working on my house that up until today, I didn't realize that we just haven;t gotten any real snow yet to warrant putting the plow on my grizzly. So that got me thinking, what are the latest plows out there and what ATV plows are the best? I've got 2 snow plows for my grizzly, a quadboss pile driver atv plow set up and a snowsport ATV plow. They are both a bit dated now and I tend to stick with the snowsport due to ease of use and I just like it so much. So if you have a plow on your ATV, please let us know what it is and post a picture with your atv/plow would be awesome. Would also like to know what you like and dislike about it.
This is back a while when I did a write up on these 2 plows.... in 2009 I got the snowsport and in 2012 I got the quadboss.
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By mywifeknowseverythin
For those of you who are into coffee, I found this little article that might interest some of you.
I admit it. I am a coffee snob. I try not to be obnoxious about it, but let the record show: I enjoy a really great cup of coffee. But pay $4 a cup for it? No way. Even snobs have their limits.
Over the years, I’ve learned that a really good cup of coffee has less to do with money and more to do with knowledge and care. In fact—and this is the amazing thing—the more I learn, the less I spend.
BEANS. Purchase whole bean coffee as soon after it has been roasted as possible. Freshness is the key to a superb cup of coffee. Purchase in small amounts—only as much as you can use within 2 weeks of being roasted.
RATIO. The perfect ratio of coffee beans (prior to grinding) and water is: One-half cup whole beans to 8 cups of water.
GRIND. Grind your beans as close to brew time as possible. A burr or mill grinder that crushes the beans is preferable to a blade grinder that cuts them. Once ground, coffee should be used immediately.
WATER. If your water is highly chlorinated use bottled or filtered water. It must be right at 200 F, just short of boiling temperature, when it hits the dry grinds. This is critical to creating a great cup of coffee. Consume immediately.
STORE. The enemies of roasted coffee beans are air, moisture, heat and light—in that order. Keep your beans in an airtight container that is not close to moisture (sink, dishwasher), heat (oven, stove) or light (countertop). Do not store your daily coffee in the refrigerator or freezer because contact with moisture causes it to deteriorate. For larger quantities of roasted beans that you cannot use within 2 weeks, wrap in airtight bags and store for up to a month in the freezer—making sure the beans are completely protected against moisture. Once removed from the freezer, do not return.
BUY. Most supermarkets offer high-quality, roasted coffee beans for $.60 to $1 per ounce ($9.50 - $16.00 per pound). Ouch! Discount warehouse clubs like Costco, Sam’s and B.J.’s have considerably less expensive coffee at about $9 a pound for name brands like Starbuck’s and Peet’s. Still, that’s too rich for my blood.
ROAST. I roast my own coffee for two reasons: It is infinitely better tasting and half the price. I purchase green coffee beans by mail order for about $4 - $6 a pound, depending on current conditions and variety. I started out roasting in a popcorn popper (West Bend’s Poppery II is ideal) and have graduated to a small coffee roaster. My favorite resource for everything from roasting instructions to green coffee beans is http://www.u-roast-em.com/. Owner Jim Cameron has a wealth of knowledge and is anxious to share.
You won’t believe how easy it is to roast coffee. And enjoyable, too. I roast only one-week’s worth at a time—about twenty minutes. Green coffee beans have an indefinite, useful shelf life of at least a year, and probably two or longer. But I’ll never know. Coffee beans just don’t last that long around my house!
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By Banshee898
2014 Honda Rancher TRX420TM1: Unit starts right up, once it warms up it stalls and more difficult to start but once it does start it won't stay running. I have replaced the fuel assembly, IACV, O2 sensor and fuel injector. There are no active DTC codes. Disconnecting fuel line at injector and turning on key there is a steady stream of fuel. Plug looks good did not see crack in ceramic. Is there any way to test the ignition coil?
Thanks for any help.
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By jmeier1981
Ok so I bought the 05 brute force and after putting about 60miles on it I have some concerns.
The engine seems to run REALLY HOT, like almost burnning my legs through my jeans hot but no warning light comes on and it doesnt seem to "act" hot is this normal, does it have any saftey feature to prevent over heating or heat damage?
It also seems to have a slight miss, or hesitation? When you slightly crack the throttle open and hold it at a steady RPM to give it a slightly higher idle it will run smooth for a couple seconds then miss and sometimes backfires. It also seems to sometimes have a hesitation if you jump on the throttle, what could cause this?
Also a couple times when shifting from reverse to high it sounded like it got hung up in between and there was a slight squeal as if maybe the belt was slipping and there was also a slight burning plastic of rubber smell. The belt IS new and it doesnt feel as if it is slipping when accelerating and the belt light hasnt come on.
Anyone have any suggestions?
It does seem to run really well and HARD accept for the slight hesitation or cough and the occasional backfire, I ran it up to 69MPH with both me and a buddy of mine on it, combined weight of almost 500lbs
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By Hagbard
Have a long story that I'll attempt to make brief. I picked up what was advertised as a 1987 LT230E with no cam or valve cover, harness dangling, no plastics, and all kinds of slop in every bushing and bearing, but hey, it was free and I love a challenge. Local guy had a couple 87 230E motors he was selling on craigslist, picked up one of those and a pisspounded DG RCM and header for $100. Went through the harness to start sorting things out and noticed a few key differences, like the stator connectors didn't mate up, one round and one square. Rubbed some of the grime off and found a VIN, Lo and behold - I have a 1990 LT160E, not a 1987 230E... By the grace of who knows what, the 230 just so happened to mount up directly to the 160 frame with no mods. Wasn't until I had broken the seal on starting to chase down the harness leads that I found out.
As it stood, advertised as a 1987 230E
After a bit of elbow grease and some eBay raiding.
Made a new seat cover and found a set of plastics, New carrier bearings, and brakes all around.
Pulled the steering and front suspension all apart and gave it some love with new bushings and tie rods
Ordered a small fortune in NOS and China parts from eBay and RockyMountain and after a couple weeks of wrenching and soldering I have a nearly complete wheeler, in pretty decent shape. Cleaned up a Mikuni carb I had laying around and mounted it up with a cone filter and a Lowe's Racing™ intake boot, and fed it some gas, primed the carb and tugged on the started rope a few times, and sure enough it belkched out some soot and fired up, ran for a couple seconds and died. No sputter, just shut off. Checked for fuel startvation, vacuum in the tank, no problems there, plenty of gas in the carb. Suspected clogged air jets, so I pulled it out of the boot and gave it a shot of ether, and it did the same thing, fired up, ran strong for 2-3 seconds and shut off. Then suspected I f*%#ed up the wiring harness somewhere, and re-traced all the leads with my newly colored wiring diagram, thanks to my kiddo's Crayola marker collection, and everything looked good. Started to suspect the CDI, solenoid, or coil might be faulty and was flipping thru the manual when a buddy stopped by with a pair of boat seats for me to reupholster for him.
He's a little bit of a savant with engines and electronics, and he got curious when I told him my predicament. Three minutes later he said "Hand me a pair of needlenose?" which he used to short the neutral switch to ground, and had me give it another tug. Fired up and ran great, no shutting off, so we deduced that the neutral switch must be at fault and after he left, I pulled it off to troubleshoot, and decided to flick the shifter a couple times with it off to see the little nubbin go around in a cricle. It didn't. I should mention at this point that I had previously changed the oil and while doing so, I took the opportunity to adjust the clutch without consulting the manual because I'm the dumbest guy I know. I did it according to the procedure I had learned for the LT185 I have, and figured the adjuster itself looked the same, they must be the same thing. I loosened the 10mm lock nut, and started turning the adjsuter screw clockwise waiting to encounter resistance, and then back it off 1/8 turn. I was really surprised when it kept turning and turning, but figured it must have been WAY out of adjustment, and went on with business. Figured I might need clutch plates at some point.
Encountered this problem, and actually read the manual and the procedure is entirely different, and I realized that I had basically "adjusted" it into oblivion. I have since drained the oil and tried to re-adjust it twice, with no luck. Anyone have any idea what I can or should do to correct the issue, or am I missing something else entirely here? (chain is off and sprocket nut is loose, if that makes any difference.) Any insight or advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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