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I want to hear about your favorite lift table brand! And why do you prefer it?
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5 YEAR WARRANTY ON STRUCTURE
2 YEAR WARRANTY ON HYDRAULICS *FREE SHIPPING * 1. Free Shipping to Commercial Location with means to offload.
* 2. Home Deliveries: We still pay the shipping, but customer is responsible for home delivery charges.
Air/Hydraulic control unit
2,500 lb Capacity Lift with Maximum Lift Height: 48"
4 Piece Side Extension Kit, expanding the lift table to 60" wide
40" Detachable Drive-On Loading Ramp Set (3) features low angle to protect vehicles and stays positioned on the ground when lift is raised, easily moved aside
Adhesive Back Grip Strips for Loading Ramps Drop Panel for Rear Tire Change Rubber Lined Wheel Vise Super Heavy-Duty Hydraulic Cylinder Assembly
High Quality and Dependable Locking Mechanism
Extra Wide Roller Bearings in Scissor Mechanism Smooth Finish Table Top for Easy Cleanup Work Table has multiple welded cross members underneath to support the heaviest of vehicles Equally Spaced Holes on Table Edges to Accept Tie Downs 9 Position Safety Locking System secures lift in place while working, max height 48"
Grease zerks on X frame maintains smooth operation
Powder Coated Finish for durability
PRO 2500 48" High Rise Air/Hydraulic Lift Specifications: Weight Capacity: 2500 lbs. Method of Lift: Air/ Hydraulic Power Unit: Air Control unit Full Raised Height: 48" Low Height: 7.87" Metal Thickness: 11 gauge steel Table Length With 40" Loading Ramp: 133" Table Width without Sides: 29.5" Table Width with Sides: 60" Loading Ramps: Main ramp 40"L x 29 1/2"W (1), side ramps 40" L x 15 1/4" W (2) 9 Locking Positions: 22 3/7", 27 1/6", 31", 34 1/4, 37", 39 1/2", 41 3/4", 43 3/4", 45 2/3" Lift, Air Control, Wheel Vise, and X Wide Side Extensions Weight: 1043 lbs. (4 separate packages) Call 603-234-2612 VISIT https://www.nhproequip.com/pro-2500-48-high-rise-air-utv-motorcycle-lift
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I'm having a heck of a time trying to calculate the middle driven gear shim for my 87 Big Bear 350. I've followed the service manual and gotten all my numbers... but when I do the calculations, I always end up with a negative value... I'm so friggin frustrated!
As per the manual:
d = 33
f = +08
c = 50.3
e = ???
I couldn't even figure out what my crankcase said... looked like gibberish! However, even if I took a guess at e, my answer is still negative because d seams like such a low value compared to the manual.
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ride Chad Wienen Wins Round 2 of the 2017 ATV Motocross Championship on his Yamaha YFZ450R. View the full article
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Most of the area we rode in is now cleared, flat, hayfield in the making. Video is unedited and uncommented .
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Hi. The starter relay has burned out on my daughters 1998 LT80 ATV. Im pretty sure the relay is bad, because if I jumper the 12v constant and the 12v switched to the starter at the relay connector, the starter will turn over. I have already ordered a new relay and a brush kit for the OEM starter I have in a box (it has a Chinese made starter installed now, and I dont know what condition it is in, other than it turns when I apply 12v as explained above).
The relay will not be here until next week, and what I want to do is wire in a regular automotive 30 amp relay until the new one gets here. I will leave the connector intact and I have already made 4 male-female jumper wires. What I need to know is which wire goes where on the 5 pin relay, seeing as how the old one is not marked. Typically, the constant 12v goes to terminal 30, the push-button start wire should go to 86, the output starter wire goes to 87 and I am left with one more wire, which is the white/black tracer from the engine stop switch. I dont know where to connect this, and I also dont know if I need to hook up a ground to terminal 85.
Any help with this would be ideal. I am pretty good with wiring, but its been awhile since Ive played around with relays, and I would rather have some advice before continuing. Also, the optional pull starter is not installed on her ATV, and if anyone knows where I could find one, new or used, reasonably priced, that would be nice too. Preferrably in Canada. Thanks.
this air tube just sticks out, port on the other side of it needs to go somewhere but i cant find it!
it attaches to this.
quad runs ok, boggs at 1/4 throttle, but i havent cleaned the carb and service it yet. just got it a week ago, and havent had tome to fool around yet, besides seeing how it runs. still need to touch up some things on it, but this part is stumping me.
Hello everyone I am new to this forum.
I am working on a Quadmaster for a friend. The only thing I have left to replace is the rubber diaphragm in the carb. I think I have cross referenced it to some other models that actually offer the rubber part only but I am not sure. The rubber part is screwed on on this slide and not pressed on. Has anyone replaced just the rubber on this model? I have seen a website that offers aftermarket rubbers but they all look much thicker than the one that came on this bike.
General Mikuni carb question. I cannot find solid manual information for this year and model online. Everything that I read says that it has a Mikuni BST34 Carb. However all I find is BS34 and all of these appear to have a round slide. This carb has a flat slide. All the Mikuni flat slide carbs that I find online do not look like this carb. I would think that I should be able to order a rubber diaphragm for the specific carb regardless of what it came in...
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I have an engine out of an 87 big bear 4x4 that I am going to put in a golf cart, and am needing to do some block mods. what I need to know is how the oil runs in the transfer case? I know that the oil comes out from the bolt that holds the 90 degree gear that turns the out put shafts, and I am guessing that it is a drain hole on the back side. Will it hurt anything to block these off? I will not be using the t-fer case because I want to turn the engine sideways to shorten up the distance needed to the rear end. If this wont work, What other engine would be good to use?
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