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By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike/ATV. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
I have a 110cc atv not sure of a brand its a Chinese model. I put on a new harness with cdi solenoid and all those. I have put a new starter on, and carburetor. I bypassed the start button cause it was just making the solenoid click. with the new button switch the atv will crank but not start. I tried to jump the solenoid and it did nothing. I am stumped. also I noticed gas leaking from the carburetor and when I took the filter off there was gas in it. I cleaned the carburetor and nothing was stuck or clogged. can someone help me out.
Ok another three questions to help me get up to speed on getting my first ATV...
1- It's after the court clerk has closed and you're standing there with the guy after your test drive and you've decided you really want the machine he's selling, and if you don't put cash in his hand now it might be gone tomorrow. So how do you know there's not a lien on the title or that the machine is even his? Just wondering how you go about purchasing a machine and make sure you don't get ripped off somehow title wise.
2- How much do private parties generally come off their asking price if they haven't put something like 'FIRM' in their advertisement? Also, how much do dealerships generally come off their price?
3- I've been told to stay away from ten year old Polaris from a number of different people, but that they've come a long way since then. How old is the oldest Polaris I should consider buying used? Around when did they start to improve in quality?
Here's the deal... I'm a first time atv buyer and have been studying hard all aspects of buying and evaluating these things for a used purchase. Now after months of looking everywhere I finally found a local private seller through word of mouth that may be offering a hell of a deal. Story is...
Guy's got a 2012 Yamaha Griz 550 w/ EPS with 2900 miles and 250 hours on it and hes asking $4900. Says he got it from NPA? in Cincinnati for $4400 and paid $125 to ship it. After new tires, brakes and oil he says he's got $5000 into it coming from a dealer-only wholesale auction. I've only got $4500 to spend and really stressed that and he says he'll sell it to me if the guy coming on Friday doesn't pay the full $4900 price he's asking.
So yeah fairly excited about the prospects here. This one blue books for something like $5500-$5800 retail.
But I'm still a little too wet behind the ears still to be confident about evaluating these things used so I'm cramming as much info as I can before I go take a look at it. So don't want to get burned.
So couple questions...
1- I've seen some with more and less miles than the 2900 this one has. But have been taught it's not so much the mileage as how they were put on. Anyone have insight about this specific model with almost 3000 miles and 250 hours on it?
2- Are there any special problems the 2012 550 EPS Griz has that I should be looking out for?
So, I got this 07' Polaris Outlaw 90 in the shop to rebuild top end and transmission. Replaced all bearings and gears in the transmission. Replaced cylinder and piston with brand new parts. Put the engine back on the frame and fired it up. Started great, but had a taping sound in the lower crank case. pulled the flywheel cover off and found the flywheel was wobbling and hitting the stator. I then replaced the stator and flywheel with brand new parts. Timing is all set on the timing marks now, but when I turn it over it kicks back when it fires and ends up stripping the starter idler gear. I've replaced the starter gear once already and now have to replace it again. Is it possible that the timing marks on the flywheel are off or maybe this flywheel is not for this exact model? Thinking of advancing the timing to try it, but don't want to keep going through idler gears.
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I have a 1994 Kawi Bayou 400 which had been running well until it sat for about a month. I left the carb dry while it was park and the temp had dropped below 0C in this time. Pulled it out last night to go for a ride and it fired up just like it should but noticed when I started to head down the road I could hold it to the bar and it didn't seem to accelerate. Lower gears weren't as noticeable but 4th and 5th it just seemed to have no acceleration and half or full throttle made no difference. if I tried to go into 5th gear with any throttle it would stall. I turned around and just poked home very slow and it seemed to stay running but this was between 15 and 20 km/h max.
I have taken the carb apart and it appears to be clean and nothing stood out on inspection to have dirt or ice. Is there something I should dig more into?
I have checked the plug and it appears to be sooty with easily rubbed off carbon. I plan to get a new plug today and test.
compression with the throttle wide open is 175 psi.
I have opened the drain plug in the exhaust thinking there could be a mouse in the exhaust or something but no difference.
I do find the engine is tickity compared to my 2000 Honda but I am not sure if this is just me looking for issues or if it has always been this way.
If anyone has any insight I would appreciate it.
In the last 6 months I have done new oil and filter ( mystik synthetic)
new Peak RPM CDI
I have noticed the fan comes on more often with the new CDI, could this be a program thing?
Looking for Kawasaki ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Kawasaki ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Kawasaki ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Kawasaki ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.
The following Kawasaki ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
CycleVin.com - Use Our Off-Road Vehicle Search to look up ATVs and more!
NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
After purchasing a lightly used 2018 570SP (300 miles on it) I noticed that the display was flashing on and off. I remember reading awhile back that this was a common problem on the 18 model. I can't remember what the fix is. It also turns over slow even though the battery is charged. Anybody know what the fix is on this issue?
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