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By Scott Sirr
I need to figure out how to clean/fix or replace my neutral switch assembly On my 2008 Yamaha big bear 400 as generally the neutral light doesn’t come on when it is in neutral. To get it to come on I have to wiggle the foot shifter and hold it in just the right spot.
I have googled it and can’t find much on the 400’s. I can’t find a service manual online and the parts manual is super vague.
I think it is in the right side engine cover area, but not certain.
Any help would be great. thanks
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
Hello everyone, did a search and not successful. Purchased new 2017 Sportsman 570 sp and my power steering is not working. Seems to have a mind of it's own. Works then it doesn't. Dealer says there's not a fix. Thought it was just me and it being a brand new machine with 4 hours on it. Dealership said it's this model only ? Not sure what a person in this spot is suppose to do and wondering are your thoughts mite be. Thanks
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