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  1. I am hoping that someone here can give me some more ideas. Our poor old red 300 won't start. We rode it, running fine, shut it off and now it won't start. Have gas to the carb and spark at the plug. Valves are adjusted. Still won't start. Tried a little starting fluid in the air chamber and still won't start. This poor old machine has 7000 miles on it. That has to be an Arctic Cat record! And I have never touched the engine besides setting the valves. Unfortunatly it looks like it only has 60 psi of compression. Don't understand how it could be running fine and then nothing. Someone give me a clue as to what I am missing or what to check. I was going to rebuild the top end this next spring but didn't want to do that this winter in a non-heated garage. Any help?
  2. Is there some way to adjust the choke cable on these quads? Wont hit a lick with cable in .You can pull choke cable out of the carb putyour finger over the hole and it will fire rite up.LEt your finger off and it will idle high .Put your finger back over the hole and it dies .I have put a new kit in the carb and everythng was done to factory spec .But jst cant figure out whats up with the choke .Any info would be helpful and greatly appreciated.
  3. I have a 2007 Arctic Cat 700 EFI 4x4 and while i am riding it keeps jumping in and out 4x4 to 2 wheeler drive how do i fix it ? thanks
  4. Need some advice... The exhaust coming out of the engine glows red hot when running for a few minutes. I have been told it is running too lean. How do I fix this? is there an adjustment on the carb? if so, where is it located? Thanks!
  5. I have a 2013 Honda Rancher ES that wont start. Last night after running the atv for 10 minutes I parked it for 2 minutes. When I came back to start it up the atv would not run. It was turning over. All electronics are working properly. The battery is strong. I sprayed a little bit of carb cleaner in the intake with filter off and the atv started for a second. I changed the spark plug and it still wouldn't run. Whats the next step to check before giving up and taking it to the dealership?
  6. Ride Review: As the owner of a pretty tricked out 2008 Kawasaki Teryx, I am very familiar with the Teryx. My Teryx did not stay stock long, but I recently spent three days in a bone stock 2008 Teryx on a ride to the Grand Canyon. The 2008 Teryx is a great machine, but my biggest complaint was that it came out with carbs instead of fuel injection. In less that a year since the first Teryxs hit dealer floors, Kawasaki dealers are already selling 2009 Teryxs with EFI. The New digital fuel inject on the Teryx is really nice. The engine starts right up and idles smoothly. On acceleration, the 2009 Teryx felt more crisp and seemed to get up to top speed a little quicker. While it is not a night and day difference, I definitely preferred everything about the EFI on the 2009 over the carburetors on the 2008. Next up on the list of what's new is a fuel gauge. I know it doesn't seem like something to get that excited about, but I do some long distance rides, and the fuel level display takes the mystery out of "I wonder how much fuel I have left?" The Teryx Sport has upgraded aluminum wheels which not only look much better, but are also 2.2 lbs. lighter than the standard steel wheels. Losing unsprung weight not only requires less energy to get the tires spinning, but also helps the suspension work better. And as a little bonus, the aluminum wheels are actually strong that their steel counterpart. Suspension is on the 2009 Teryx Sport has a few upgrades as well. The gas-charged Kayaba shocks have reservoirs all the way around to help reduce fade in rough terrain. The preload adjustment is step-less, and they have fully adjustable rebound and compression (high and low speed) damping. Although we did not have any opportunities to jump the new Teryx Sport, we did get into some nasty whoops and hard g-outs. I felt the Teryx Sport suspension handled the terrain better than a standard Teryx suspension. The ride through the light chop was a bit smoother than a standard Teryx and when we got into the whoops I felt a little more comfortable as well. Although I was able to bottom out the front shocks on a few hard g-outs, a standard shock would have gone to the stops more often and with more force. Overall, even though I did not spend any time trying to fine tune the adjustments on the new Sport shocks, I think they are a worthy improvement over standard shocks. The Lime Green plastic on the Teryx Sport is a great color. Much more sharp than the drab green found on the 2008 Teryx. And with all the UTVs out in the dunes in Glamis, there is no doubt that you are in a Kawasaki when you are driving it. The 2009 Kawasaki Teryx 750 FI 4x4 Sport has a MSRP of $11,899. A full list of all new 2009 Kawasaki Teryx improvements and photo galleries can be found here. Links: 2009 Kawasaki Teryx Sport Press Intro 2009 Kawasaki Teryx 750 FI 4x4 Sport Review Teryx 750 FI 4x4 Sport - Kawasaki More...
  7. Hi, I have a 2008 Odes 400cc ATV 4x4 and Im having a problem with the four wheel drive , its not working. Does anyone know if the limited slip differential has any adjustment and know how to do the adjustment?
  8. I have a 1994 Yamaha Timberwolf 4x4. The electric start button worked fine when i was out hunting in the early hours of Sunday but in the evening all i was getting was a click click click when i pushed the starter button. Pull starting, it fires up no problem. I removed the battery and one of the cells was half empty so i topped it up and charged. Still goes click after i put the battery back in it. Posts are clean too. I heard that the starter brushes can be replaced. Thanx for the help guys. Gary
  9. Hey guy and gals I'm a new-be here an just need a lot of help So please forgive me if I'm doing this wrong! First off My name is Rob and thanks for having me here you'll. I just acquired a 1997 farm hand bayou 300 4x4 that is in need of a lot of TLC I traded the fella even up for and old Yamaha street bike I had about $850 into that ran good and did not leak or burn oil but still needed many minor things like brake worked seat and so on So about the Bayou-it runs starts right up and all but is missing some things like the front and rear racks clutch lever and small plastic cover in front of handle bars My issue is that the fella said he put new piston & rings in it about a week ago and checked out the clutches like I said it runs and I know I should have taken more time to check everything out so when I got it home I found out there was no air breather and I can't see how one would have even fit on there the way the carb is so close to the inner frame rail under the seat on it and it started leaking oil pretty bad from the clutch cover (it was clean oil though light in color) The quad is not bad lookin and I can weld up some racks for it but I really need a service manual for this old work horse!!!!! I have no issue following directions other than sometimes giving my own creative touches LOL ANY HELP WOULD BE SO MUCH APPRECIATED THANK YOU AND HAVE A BLESSED DAY ROB
  10. I need the correct timing for my 650. Can anyone help?
  11. Electronic Power Steering? Did you guys see this? Features & Benefits New for 2007 Honda's revolutionary Electric Power Steering (EPS) system offers speedand torque-sensitive steering assistance for increased control and comfort under tough conditions. Front and rear suspension are revised specifically for the Foreman with EPS. Unique Features EPS is a unique system consisting of an ECU-programmed electric steering assistance motor and multiple sensors. These sensors measure the handlebar torque applied by the operator as well as the ATV's speed to determine the correct amount of steering assistance required for all conditions. More assistance is provided in rough terrain and at low speeds to decrease the amount of steering effort required, while less assistance is provided at higher speeds and in smooth terrain. This innovative technology also decreases bumpsteer and kickback through the handlebar in all conditions. The sophisticated Showa system includes separate ECU programming for 2WD and 4WD modes, while spring-loaded steering-motor gears minimize play to increase steering feel and feedback at higher speeds. Traxlok® enables the rider to shift between 2WD and 4WD with the simple push of a switch and provides quiet, smooth engagement with shift-on-the-fly capability. Torque-sensitive front differential reduces torque steer for less steering effort and, when combined with EPS, provides unmatched 4WD steering effort and precision. Dual front disc-brake calipers feature a patented built-in scraper system to remove mud and snow from inside the front wheel. This helps to prevent buildup of debris between caliper and rim and ensures consistent braking performance. Brake pads feature thick, long-wear material with improved mud durability, feel and control. Pads have an internal scraper that gives audible warning when pad life is low. Standard-equipment oil cooler. Engine/Drivetrain Powerful four-stroke 475cc OHV air-cooled longitudinally mounted engine allows direct driveshaft alignment to both front and rear wheels for improved drivetrain efficiency. The overhead-valve arrangement features angled valves in a hemispherical combustion chamber for straighter intake and exhaust flow for improved engine performance. Rubber-cushion engine mounting and gear-driven counterbalancer reduce vibration. Snorkel-type air-intake system is specially designed to resist water intrusion. Integral electric carburetor heater system improves driveability and ensures smooth operation in cold conditions. Closed crankcase vent system safeguards against engine oil contamination. USDA-qualified spark arrester/muffler is constructed of stainless steel. Traxlok is easily engaged by pushing a switch on the right handlebar. An electromagnetic mechanical clutch unit located on the center of the propeller shaft engages 4WD with a quiet two-way roller clutch. Traxlok ensures smooth operation by employing a magnetic switching mechanism that engages when front and rear wheel speeds vary by less than 6 mph. A 4WD indicator light on the LCD meter shows "actual" 4WD/2WD engagement status. Electric Shift Program (ESP) provides push-button upshifting and downshifting. The rider shifts simply and precisely with the press of the upshift or downshift button mounted on the left handlebar. An onboard electronic control module (ECM) monitors information from four sensors--engine rpm, countershaft speed, shift drum angle and shift spindle angle--to control the speed of the electric shift motor's gear and clutch engagement. Gear-engagement speed varies according to rider style: The transmission shifts more quickly when riding style turns sporty. A neutral lockout at speeds greater than 2 mph ensures available engine braking when descending hills. For smooth shifting, the transmission cannot be shifted from Neutral to First gear or Reverse gear at engine speeds above 3000 rpm. ESP is not battery-dependent, operating whenever the engine is running. Should the rider ever need to shift manually, the ES model is also equipped with an auxiliary shift lever in the tool kit. Super-heavy-duty automatic clutch for excellent driveability and towing capacity. Convenient five-speed transmission with Reverse. Maintenance-free shaft drive with torque-sensing front differential routes power directly from the longitudinally mounted engine without inefficient directional changes. Convenient electric starter with auxiliary recoil starter features an automatic internal decompression system. Wet-sump engine carries a large 3.2-quart capacity. CD ignition with electronic advance for excellent performance and reliability. Reusable foam air filter. Chassis/Suspension Rugged frame and suspension provide an exceptional 7.5 inches of ground clearance. Independent double-wishbone front suspension uses KYB shock absorbers to give 6.7 inches of travel. Steel swingarm and dual KYB rear shock absorbers give 6.7 inches of travel. Rugged, large-diameter 25x8-12 front, 25x10-12 rear tires provide added ground clearance while maintaining precise handling. Dual 180mm front hydraulic disc brakes combine with sealed 180mm mechanical rear drum for excellent stopping capabilities.
  12. Hi, brand new to the forum and first time ATV owner at 46. I picked up what is believed to be an 87 to 89 big bear 350 4x4. The owner was not sure. My big question is it appears the shifting is neutral at the bottom and five up unlike all my dirt bikes. Is this right? There is no Manuel and I have not had enough time or area to get it up to speed and run it through the paces. Any help, owners manuals, and an order of things to inspect and service first? Thank you, Dan
  13. Hello, can someone please hook me up with a repair manual for my 2000 Suzuki eiger 400 4x4. Thank you very much, Mark
  14. I bought a 96 bayou 300 4x4 would like a little more clearance underneath as i plan to use this to plow this winter for a few people. the problem is that with the plow on i cannot load the atv on my own as the mount area of the push bars catches on my tailgait. Would a high lifter lift and wheel spacers to maintain the width be a good idea or a bad idea? let me know as i have never used either and this is my first Utility atv. thanks I have heard about problems with lifts and cv boots being a problem is this true?
  15. alright here's the deal. I bought i 2004 kodiak for a great price but i has some issues that i need help with. the first is the atv shows a random MPH while setting still and it changes when you start moving but is by no mean accurate. shows something like 5 MPH sitting still and like up to 25 MPH while moving in low range. the second is the atv shutters in reverse and won't back up. it idles fine in reverse but when you give it throttle it shutters like it would if you were backing up too fast and the speedo shows somewhere around 10 MPH but i'm not moving. could both these issues be related to a speed sensor somewhere? any help is greatly appreciated.
  16. It worked intermittenly the last couple times I had it out. Now the switch will not work at all nor the 4 wheel drive. I got the hood off exposing the wires. I checked all connections. The wiring diagram shows the power is coming from the hub safty switch and going to the front AWD hubs and then to the AWD switch. I have no power to the switch. (After 96 & 97 Polaris did away with the hub safty switch.) Any help will be appreciated.
  17. Any ideas on what would make a coil not fire? She was running fine, then began slow start. Now wont start at all.
  18. looking for a service manual someone had the machine in pieces when we bought it and everything is cobbled i need the manual to be able to trace wires and see schematics have tried many times with no results to get this info even from moderators who have broken links to the service manual with no replies i desperately need this
  19. :confused:need a repair manual or help in what to look for thank you Bill for you muddober to make clear to you the neutral light and the gear light do not light up win shifting fuses are good Iuse my CAt for hunting im dissable the atv is my leag s thank you
  20. Hi Everyone This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either. The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again. I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening. Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow. Thanks for reading Kevin
  21. Looking forward to posting some questions on here, doing some reading on here, and enjoying the company of others. So I bought a 1994 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4 from a buddy of mine for $1,000. He has had the ATV for about 2 year. No rear problems when talking about the motor. It has failed to start some, and unfortunately it does not have a pull string. Not sure if that is something I can add on later or not. But we traced the issues to the starter and replaced it. Now it starts easily and has a new battery and starter that he bought . Issues I am going to be working on, and asking questions about: Hours display is broken and doesn't show anything at all Would like to possibly add a speedometer at some point Rear brake doesn't work until the pedal is all the way down to the floor, and then it engages, doesn't really brake. I'm thinking this is a simple adjustment ATV pops and clicks when turning. Was thinking CV axles, but not sure and want to be 100% sure before I order replacement parts Need to learn the braking system better. It has two hand brakes and then the pedal brake. What's the difference and how do they all work together. Assume one is a hybrid brake that engages both front and rear at the same time, but not sure Need to clean/paint the hubs The shifting is tough and some times requires more pressure than I'm comfortable with. Not sure if it's lubrication, or an issue with the linkage. Need to learn that too. Having a hard time finding a manual online, need to buy one probably I have around $500 to invest into the ATV. I am hoping this will take it back to really nice riding condition. Any thoughts on the above issues/concerns? I plan on using the search functions as well. Looking forward to hearing from you all. - Brandon
  22. Clutches are engaging shifting fine I can turn the tires and the secondary clutch spins engaging the primary just not getting power to the wheels when it's running.
  23. I am looking for a downloadable manual for a 2000 Arctic Cat 400 4x4 that I just purchased
  24. I have a 1999 bayou 300 4x4 that backfires through the carburetor. It only starts doing so after warming up for about a minute...till then you can rev the motor with no problem but after it warms up a little it will not rev and bogs down and backfires through the carburetor and exhaust. It has a new stator, pick up coil and carburetor has been rebuilt. Any help would be appreciated.
  25. I have a couple of questions again please. In cleaning the carb i took the needle valve out.... it had a string on it and a rubber ring and a small washer... I need to know for sure how these go back because they fell out of the carb when i took the needle valve out and I am not unsure of how they go back in I think the spring first slides onto the needle valve, but what comes next if so the washer or the rubber O ring? Next I noticed the breather that i purchased does not set tightly into the hose that comes out of the carb would that keep it from idleing correctly? cause i can put something against the hose and it trys to idle? right now though i have the float off cause gas is pouring out of the carb when i try to start it... Thank you in advance
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