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By Stacy Hanks
I have 2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 - igniton relay and starter relay both were replaced also the neutral switch indicator was replaced-- bike will not show light on for neutral or start when button is pushed
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By Shook
Hi I have a 2000 big bear 400 and i just put a new carburetor on it and it idles fine but when you try to accelerate it sounds like it is going to die, so when it sounds like it is going to die I will give it more throttle then it will go just fine.
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By Dimelol
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
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By Walter Awe
I HAVE a 2002 big bear 400 4x4. I have two wires atacking to the front of the carb. What are they for?
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By Lank Firdmont
I have seen other posts and I'm not ableto download resources.
I was gifted a Yamaha TerraPro and can find 0 online for help getting this running.
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By Steve Westby
i have an issue with my brakes.it seems every time i ride through water or mud and then the brakes began to freeze up.I was wondering if anyone has total change the brake system from drum to disk or a different drum set up?
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By Alan Callison
I just got a 2004 Yamaha that needs some work.Its got wet brakes on the front that Im trying to get working.My problem is the brake lever.This the lever on it now.On the master cylinder it has a cable in it that has the wire that fits in a slot inside the lever itself but this lever isn't made for that.I dont know if whoever had it before didn't know what they were doing or what but its the wrong lever for this machine. Can someone point me in the right direction here? I looked at the Yamaha website and the schematics only show a part that looks like this one here. Again,I have a 2004 Yam 400 Kodiak 4x4 and its an automatic model. BTW,the master cyl. was bone dry. I was gonna change out the rear brake shoes and when I went to pull off the wheel,get this, each wheel stud had 2 different sized washers holding the lug nuts to the wheel rim. The stud holes were so worn out it had worn away the base of the studs and the holes were the size of quarter! Im lucky someone didn't die while riding this! A word to the wise.Pay attention to what you buy.Look carefully and keep a keen eye out. This was my fault because it was the 1st ATV Id ever bought and I didnt notice alot on this machine so I guess I count myself lucky in that I didnt get hurt nor did anyone else who rode it either.
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By Arctic Snowdog
Hi Guys,
I have a small Sled Dog business and I train up to 14 Huskies pulling a Yamaha Grizzly 550, that is quite a lot of Horse (Dog) power. Sometimes in order to make the ride smoother for Dogs and us we ride in Neutral but on a few occasions I have noticed that the right hand (front) brake seems to loose pressure and does not brake at all. Is there a particular reason for this ? Is it a fault or is it something to do with us riding in neutral, I only use the ATV in this way a few months a year before the snow comes but I am sure I recall the same thing happening last season.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated because I am a far way from being a mechanic.....
Have a super day and thank you all.
Craig
Lapland
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By switch
I have a timberwolf that I love. It sat and the carb got gel from this wonderful ethanol. I cleaned it and put a new kit in it. it always started right off. now it cranks forever before it hits and then it will not idle. set according to instructions 23mm float, 4th notch on the pin, 1 1/2 turns out on the AIS. I have tried tweeking all of these some but nothing seems to make a difference. The biggest problem is that I got it back out because the wife has claimed this bike and now it will not run for her. Any help would sure get me out of a bind.
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