Tim-ANC

The tools you have are fine. If you get into deeper work like CV joints and crank case separation, the manual will tell you. RTFM right. Or ask me. I might have a work around. Ive been to the bottom of 2 of these.

My blog details the valve adjustment. I think I posted something else there about timing chain. Join that site. Hunting and fishing stuff you might be interested in.

And semper fi. Thank you for your service.

I did a similar job on a 93 a few years back. Detailed here: Suzuki King Quad project - Forums - 907Outdoors

Sounds like the rig was pretty beat up. Do a valve adjustment first per the routine mx section in your manual. Next rebuild the carb and make sure its getting fuel. That its back filling into the carb could mean the timing chain has jumped. To check you have to remove the head cover.

i get most of my parts off used from Ebay. Mufflers are hard to find cheap. Try local salvage yards.

Good rig for a kid to learn on. All the mechanical controls and poor breaking system teaches them to operate the machine rather than just hanging on.

How is it changing these? The manual elaborates on measurements and cautions about damaging the seal if its mis-aligned.

No thats just a protective cap for the air inlet tube. Dont really see a need for it. Now if something is restricting the air inlet I would say it is a problem. Easy way to check is to open the air filter cover and try to start.

The valve faces wear as they bang up against the head seats. This creates a gap on the sealing face that intake and exhaust gases can pass through. Hence on the compression stroke, it leaks. Cars have hydraulic lifters that compensate for this. Wheelers don't. You have to back off the rocker arm stems to facilitate full valve travel. My kids ride these old king quads about 400 miles a season and I have to adjust valves every year.

Not hard to do, just a bit intricate. Get a manual and read up on it.

I wouldnt go for a new carb yet. You have the original carb right?

My first thought is valves. You said they were checked. Was it done at TDC and did you have slight play in both the push stems? Gap should be around .005 inch.

How is your spark?

How is the compression?

Back firing suggests a rich fuel mixture. Check that the choke is not stuck open and the fuel delivery system vacuum tubes in the picture. Should be no fuel in them.

Clymer is the best in my opinion.

You will have to get a wire diagram for the original model. Guessing could cause major problems.

Oil will drip out the fwd cap, put a rag over the exhaust pipe. Since, I dont have a feeler gage that fits in there well, I cut a strip of aluminum out of a beer can. Beer can walls are .005 inch thick. I assume you have a manual for this.

I`m with Ox. Check that your timing chain hasnt jumped. Put the piston at TDC. Pull the head cover and check the cams are neutral, and the alignment mark on the cam shaft is right. Check the valve push pads and adjusters are not damaged.

Just happen to be tearing into the crank case on my 94.

Wires out from stator:

Wires into frame connector:

BLK/YEL goes to BLK/BLU

GRN/WHT goes to GRN

Excellent. I had a tank venting problem on an old LT230. Would run for a bit then just sputter. After a while start back up again. Rebuilt the carb, changed the pet cock and in general banged my head on it. Vent wasnt big enough on the tank cap. Good idea on the needle jet adjustment too. I still recommend a valve adjustment if its never been done.

You been wrenching a lot. Definitely adjust the valves. If you have one sticking open a bit it will effect your compression. Do you have a pet cock with a vacuum line on it?

Yeah, looking at the bike bandit parts breakout I only see one fuse. There is an engine running check on the stator for voltage out. Supposed to be 55 volts AC from each of the three wires. You might want to check while cranking to see if you get any juice at all. Otherwise, check your wiring and connectors. Especially for chafes to the frame.

Does it crank? Have you checked fuses?

If you have the 1987-1998 model manual, should be in the wire diagram section

Great, you have a 1996 King Quad.

If that 10th position is a T, then you have a 1996 King Quad.

vin decoder site Universal detailed VIN Decoder - free check vehicles from US/EU market VIN-Decoder.NET

jsaak42a312103699

It is JS, check the character in the 10th position. Should be a letter.

The Clymer is what I have and it's a good manual. There was some question before about what rig you have. Might be a King Quad. Did you ever find the full vin number?

That sounds right. The yellows go to your volt regulator. The other two go to the CDI. What manual were you looking at when you said they dont match?

I think you have a short somewhere. Check wiring where they contact the frame first. Right side under the seat is where Ive insulation rubbed off and shorting to ground.

Unbolt the sprocket from the came shaft then drop it down to remove the chain. Be sure to keep tension on the chain so it doesnt slip off the drive sprocket in the crank case. Engine needs to be TDC. However, before you do this work, I suggest you get a manual.

What color are the wires coming out of the stator?

Yes, the reverse switch does need to be connected because the neutral switch feeds through it.