Tim-ANC

Radiator fan was not turning on. I did the test per the manual. While running, disconnect wire connector from the temp sensor near the thermostat. Fan is supposed to default to on. Mine didn't. Found the fan relay lose in the fuse box. Works great now.

My problem is the drive belt. I installed a used belt the previous owner gave me. It's better but not optimum. I wish those things weren't so expensive.

Does the idle change when you turn the handle bars? Could mean throttle cable needs adjustment

The green is old gas that has gelled up over time.

Get a good carb rebuild kit for it. You need a manual for the rebuild. If you can't find one for free, it is worth buying it.

I have tried to download a service manual and not having any luck can someone please help. I have a 1998 Suzuki king quad  Lt- f4wdx  engine is a 280.  Thx for the help

Wish there was a way to check spark for people like me that only have the recoil working, ha! 

Centrifugal clutch system using friction plates that is gear driven. All you need to do is move the gear lever and give it it some throttle to engage. Designed to shift while moving also.

Gear grinding is not good though. Check the manual about trouble shooting the problem.

You are correct, the sight glass is for engine oil. Should be hash marks on the case for min-max level. Or just fill it half way up the circle.

The fill port is in an awkward place because it is hard to poor oil into it from a quart bottle. I used to use a funnel attached to a long tube. Wipe the area off before removing the cap. Lots grime builds up here. The positioning of the fill port could have been designed better.

Go to the manuals section in the forum to download a shop manual for your machine.

I agree

Are the lights stock? If you have 2, what happens when you disconnect one?

Good luck on your hole drilling. Helps to have a spotter to keep you square on it. You could try a steel roll pin for better security. Have you looked on ebay for the part you need? Usually good deals on used parts.

Snatch block

Some four wheelers are designed so they can be stood up on their as* end for transport. Check your owners manual to see if it's an option.

Will be a 17 digit number (with letters too). Look on vertical front frame pieces first.

I recently acquired one. My wife borrowed it from a friend then decided she wanted to buy it. First side by side experience for me. Not sure I like it yet. Feels claustrophobic. To be fair, I haven't rode (drove?) It in anything heavy.

New to the RZR. The clutch engagement is jerky. Takes a fair amount of boot on the pedal to get it to grab and then it jerks into motion. Is this normal for RZR's? The guy I bought it from seemed to think so but he is not mechanical. I took the clutch cover off. Had a fair of amount of the glacial/volcano ash silt we have around these parts. Hosed it out and wiped down the bevel faces and belt with acetone. Going to let it air dry for a few days. It seemed a bit better when I drove it briefly with the cover off though the clutch doesn't engage smooth. Rather jumps into engagement.

PS, does QC have an app to use on a phone?

Thanks AJM. Last week it overheated, steamed up and bypassed blowing coolant everywhere. Filled it up again today and did the air purge per the manual. No white smoke. I think it was low before. Will monitor. Still get steam off the radiator after it idles for awhile.

Been wrenching on a 2009 RZR 800. Took it out a couple times and the overheat indication came on. Found the coolant low. Filled and same thing happen the next day. When I run it at idle, steam pours off the radiator and it smells like glycol. No visible coolant leakage when it sits overnight. I suspect the radiator has several pin holes that retain liquid but leak when the coolant is vaporized. Can anyone else have experience with this?

Well done and glad you found the problem. Sounds like it was a PITA though. Good of you to post feedback for the rest of us.

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Possible, but you can check the timing yourself first to see if it's off.

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To those ports on the carb I labeled in the picture I posted.

back of the fuel pump and back of the petcock.

The breather lines are from the back of the carb. The just sit under the shift panel. you dont have to connect them to anything. They simply vent the carb.

Definitely seems like you are getting flooding from somewhere. If you dont find in these tubes. Try disconnecting and plugging your fuel line and running it dry from the float bowl to see how it behaves.

Check the vac tubes that provide suck to your fuel pump and petcock. If fuel in them, the diaphragms form those components are leaking.

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