boutselis

thank you

I found it I think 2000 yamaha Yfm400n atv is that a big bear

Thanks. I have an email into them. yes. I checked it and re checked it. the vin is right in the spot it is supposed to be and doesnt appear to be altered in any way. I did find this site that was able to decode it http://en.vindecoder.pl/5Y4AH08W9YA007113 . and it gave me this info but the actual model was missing Vin number analize Entered VIN 5Y4AH08W9YA007113 Corrected VIN 5Y4AH08W9YA007113 Squish VIN 5Y4AH08WYA WMI 5Y4 VIS identifier N/A VDS AH08W9YA Year identifier Y Serial number 007113 VIN type normal Check digit valid Check VIN number: 5Y4AH08W9YA007113 and learn more about the history of this vehicle. General Information Make Yamaha Model year 2000 Manufactured in United States

I just purchased a yamaha big bear. I was told that it was a 2003 400 big bear. Now I'm not so sure. I have put the vin in a few different decoders and got 3 different answers. One told me the closest vin was one of 3. another told me they couldnt find it and the 3rd said it was some 2 stroke model (which I know it isn't ) the vin is 5Y4AH08W9yA007113 could any one help me out

I have noticed something odd. I tried turning over the motor with an auxiliary batter by connecting the positive to the starter and the neg to a spot on the motor with the use of short jumper cables and I could not get the starter to turn. when I hooked up the same battery to the old battery terminals on the atc then the starter would turn that way. shouldnt the starter spin a good battery is hooked up directly to it with the engine cooling fin as a ground? this may tell me I am not grounding the spark plug properly when checking to coil

I charged a better battery. on the plus side I found out my starter isnt bad. Even though the old batter would get the head light to work it didnt produce enough amps to turn over the starter. on the negative side , I have gone from weak spark to no spark. so now I am going to test components and clean contacts

the neutral light is always on. I didnt worry about it because it wasnt an issue until maybe now. I am looking into wether the battery is completely dead or not. I know on my mowers, if the battery doesnt charge or it goes bad the mower will stall out. even if you jump it and the battery doesnt have enough of a charge they will stall. wasnt sure if this atc could be similar.

then I guess its kind of a chicken egg thing I have to figure out. did the plug get sooty because of a rich mixture and then it fouled or was the spark weak so the fuel didnt burn so the plug turned black

The plug is black and pretty sooty looking. could that be enough to cause a weak spark?

I checked to see if it was sparking. it did but it seemed weak. but my starter does not work well. I usually kick start it. I could not get any spark kick starting. but it did show a spark with the weak starter. Not as bright as my chain saw though. is this one of those things where the ignition system is either working or it isnt or could it be working in a weak way

I was out riding and it quit on me. I was going sslow when it happened with low rpms. engine feels like it has the same compression. I ahev not checked anything yet what would be the first few things to check on in order of likely hood

It seemed to big to heat up but Ill give it a shot thanks.

I am trying to get the front brake drums off my trx250. both are stuck on. any tricks to getting front brake drums off?

removing the engine turned out to be much more simple than I was making it. it just slid off the drive shaft spline with a little effort.

thank you for pointing that out. my memo page was stuck to page 5-4 so I never saw that. I guess thats the problem with old fashioned paper. I am going to (hopefully) look up some videos about removing that u joint.

I have a manual and it goes through the steps to remove the engine (which is my ultimate goal) but I am stuck on the very last step. which reads: remove the engine from the right side while disconnecting the drive shaft universal joint from the engine. I cant find any info in the manual about the drive shaft or the drive shaft universal joint

Well I have not had time to work the minor bugs out of my atc250sx and I went and bought a 1985 trx 250. I couldnt pass it up for $100 the previous owner said it was running and he heard a clink or snap sound and then everything froze up. cant get it out of gear so he figured it is a transmission problem. my first question is how do you go about removing the drive shaft? any ideas on what the problem may be. motor wont shif out of neutral. It happened right when he shifted into gear. it stalled the engine and never went back into neutral. if any one knows how to work on this dinosaur

according to the manual there is a pilot adjusting screw. Even though it points to it I still havnt found it. not sure if it will help in adjusting the L jet fuel flow or not.

dang. I just paid $4.95 to download that manual at tradebit. thank you though

is there an adjustable low jet on this thing? Now that i think of it it kinda acts like my chainsaw does when the low jet is closed a little to much.

does anyone have a suggestion as to which spray paint is the closest to 1980s honda red. I now have a 250sx and the previous owner painted it all black. before that he says it was pink and scratches. thats why he painted it but he did a terrible job. so I would like to get things back red but without braking the bank. I would like it to look like a honda but doesnt have top be perfect. unless there is an inexpensive paint that is just perfect

Hello; new here. I have not road for a very long time. I just purchased a 1987 honda 250sx and have been enjoying putting around on it. I have only owned it for a short time. It seems to run good. it starts easy enough even though the choke does not work. takes about 4 or 5 kicks cold. then it goes right to a soft idol. but I have noticed 2 problems. When I have been riding and I stop and put it in neutral the rpm goes up pretty high. A little to high to pop it back into gear. and if I take of in 1st without using the L1 it will bog down if I try to punch it. is this because you should always take off stating in the short L1 gear or could there be any other problem. I dont notice any smoke at all and it idols pretty soft so I didnt think the compression was low.