dlgg7

I've got the same Quad, 96 model, I've used Sun F tires only, best I've had on a 4x4!

I'll HAVE to remember that one Mech!

Got mine straightened out, have to say their REALLY fun pulling the carb in and out as many times as I had to! My vacuum hoses were messed up, I think that was my fault when it quit running years ago on me and I pulled the carb to rebuild, replaced the fuel petwock, and fuel pump. It runs perfect now and now that you have one too, you'll have to do the shifter mod!

Just an update, IT'S DONE! Pulled the carb back out 2 days ago, broke it all down AGAIN! Pulled the main jet seat? 'Yoke'? whatever it's called, finally got the seat to move out and all the side holes are good. Broke out my cobalt drill bits and pinged the center, kinda?, started small and worked up to one that just fit thru the threads of the other good one. Tapped back out to the 4mm .70 thread and replaced the junk 'security' torx screws w/4mm bolts. Back together, stupid rubber intake boot! Starts perfect, no choke, revs perfect, runs out great! THANKS Mech!

Thanks Gw, I've got some of those too in diff sizes, can't get in to it. Hopefully the 2 different ones I ordered will be able to!

Ok, Mech, the filter I haven't serviced yet, it is still oily by feel, so after that many years it probably needs cleaning and oiled. I've got a right-angle adjusting tool coming, only way I can see getting to that screw! And Gwbarm, my bad, it's the res on the fuel pitcock, your right.

Lol, your right Mech, the fuel valve has been changed over to one that doesn't have the vacuum barb on it, Prime, Off, On. So that was part of the problem, that vacuum barb on the carb is now plugged. It revs up now, but now when I rode it, it starts missing around mid-range, I have to feather the throttle a little off and goose it some to get it to go on and accelerate more. I DID set the idle mixture by the book at 2 turns, It was about 2 3/4 turns prior. Not fun to get to! I'm waiting on an adjustment tool.

Yep Mech, the carb has the vacuum diaphragm on top of the carb. But guess what, I pulled the front fender off yesterday figuring it wasn't any more of a PAIN!! than pulling the carb off the rubber boots again! Tracing the rubber hoses, watched a guy 'Schneid15' I believe on youtube on the vacuum hose routing and traced mine, the 2 AFTER the carb on the air filter side are just vents. 2 hose connections on the intake manifold side are vacuum, vacuum connections have flared ends on them, one on the right side of carb sitting on it is the one to the fuel pump, one under the throttle cable is for use to the fuel pitcock, which I put a new one in before when I couldn't get it going when it stopped running, With the front plastic off, I found this 2nd one not connected, I pulled the hose off and put a vacuum plug over the carb barb and it starts immediately w/no choke even and revs up good. Went for a ride w/battery strapped on the front and it runs just sometimes missing on acceleration and I have to feather the thumb throttle a little and it then will go on and accelerate. Now all I have to work out is the miss sometimes. I have to admit, I've tried cleaning the plugs, went thru 3-4 new ones trying to get this figured out and they where fouling out in no time! I'll have to see how it goes before I want to pull the carb just to try to drill-out that screw! Wish I could find another decent used one to go through!

Mech, you posted on another post on these-Your slide needle should be sprung loaded downwards. There's meant to be a small spring pushing it down, and the spring is held down by a plastic bit with an O ring on it. The O ring is all that holds the plastic bit from pushing up. If the O ring isn't on the plastic bit, or if it's old and hard, or if the plastic bit can be pushed up and out of place by you pushing the needle up slightly against the spring, but without actually pushing the plastic directly with the needle, they you should change the O ring. The needles always wobble around sideways in the slide, that's ok. By my book, the carb diagram for 1990-ON shows only the spring, spring seat, E-ring, then jet needle with ring underneath. Didn't have any O ring when I originally took it apart, am I thinking right?

What I've been trying to pull to clean is needle jet holder, only thing that's not been out, can't get it to budge! Gonna have to go thru some of your previous direction to ck the regulator and see if it's too much voltage shutting down the cdi at higher rpms.

Reckon I'm kinda CHICKEN here! I have cobalt bits, just that small is hard to imagine going good! Already made a big goof while having the slide cover off and turned the slide upside down and where do you think the needle dropped straight down on the motor? Under the starter! Fishing w/fine wire was fun! It is back on the bike, starts TOO easy, but still the same. If I had another backup carb, I'd try it. Have to think,,,,,,

Compression good,

Just to add, book shows #9-Needle jet, which I couldn't get out of that 'Yoke?' that the Vacuum Piston slides on. Seems the 1 screw holding down the ears of the 'Yoke?' is holding it tight in the carb body. Shaking my head on trying to drill out that broken screw in the carb body, any suggestions or thoughts?

Well, yesterday pulled carb again after trying to ck spark, rebuild kit was same jets as the OEMs I took out. Set mixture screw to 2 turns by book, Got the stupid idea to pull main jet seat, yoke?, the Y shaped piece, those 2 security? screws were lock-tighted in, but I have the bits for them, BUT, broke the head off one. Cleaned passages thru and O-rings are shot, found 2 new ones and replaced. Finish getting it back together today. Good spark looks like, good fuel.

Spark is too hard to tell in daylight! Good spark at idle, at higher rpms, I can't see it even tho no studder in rpms till it starts bogging to die.