ZacUSNYR

check the relays for broken wires and proper operation. they'll let the machine crank but not spark. there are two relays near the starter relay under the rear fender near the battery.

That's an awesome price - I assume you have standard travel arms? Ishock will revalve them and send them back to you when you get them for no charge - just tell them what arms, weight, and type of riding.

The Ishock stuff is fantastic. You won't be disappointed.

How about a review from someone who actually owns one? Kawasaki built the thing to be a woods racer (hense the 46" wide wheelbase and reverse). With some money dumped into, it is a very potent MX quad. The factory gearing is really short. Outside and inside the transmission.

I have an 08 KFX with -2 rear sprocket on it and it still is slow, top end. I had it pinned WFO and i'd guess 60MPH out of it. But it accelerates like a beotch. And first gear is really tall so it likes to stall if you're not clutch happy. Factory suspension is fantastic. Suffers from minor body roll, factory stem is 1" too low. Factory foot pegs are too narrow.

With some bolt-ons. The quad is an excellent machine. It's small and light with a very nice power curve and smooth power.

by stance do you mean that you want it wider? A stock 660 or 700 is not really any wider than a stock Warrior.

And changing a rear shock is not going to change teh stance either unless you are meaning something different.

there is not alot of people making aftermarket a-arms for the Warrior. Lonestar is probaly your best bet for after market a-arms.

Yamaha ATV Parts - Yamaha Warrior Aftermarket and Performance Products | Lonestar Racing

heh a raptor 700 is 4" wider then a Warrior.

Chinese food isn't healthy for you

lol

I love the new 700s. Would love to be able to go pick one of those up

I lust over them every time I see them at the dealer (ask lildaisygrl, she'll tell ya!).

I'm not sure what year your previous Rhino was, but a $5200 trade in is a good deal for the dealer, if they fix it up, esp if you put the stock hood and such back on it. But I think this will hurt you if you bring this to the good ole American justice system. You're entitled to damages. Damages are now longer to repair, it's the value you would have lost on the trade in. Did the dealer tell you how much they would have given you on trade in, if it was mint? I believe used retail value on them is between 7-8500 depending on extras and such. Just an FYI to be prepared on if they try to go this route in the defense. Not sure if you'll have to disclose this in small claims or not.

Would be nice to have the judgement so when he chooses not to pay you can go after his assets/property. Check with local law, if he is a business owner (you're sueing the father I assume right?) or a home owner. You can get a lien placed on either the business or his home. Stick it to uhm

A bunch of people on the raptor site I go to has tried these kits. They say they worked great, just the tie-rod extensions are junk and will fail. If you figure out what you want to run the arms and then spend the extra $100 for the extended tie rods- it's a decent kit that holds up better then front wheel spacers or crazy off-setted wheels.

It's not because of the vague description of Synthetic oil.

Honda says you can run Synthetic in both sides of the motor. Tranny side, run a Synthetic that has no Molybednium Disulfide. (They sell two versions of their HP4 oil, one with moly and one without - your manual I believe suggests GN4 or HP4, without moly).

no, i never heard of that before, but i shouldnt have to do that, the only mods are a stage 2 cam, supertrap exaust, and open airbox(no lid). so it shouldnt be to much pwr for it .

The Warrior is notorious for slipping clutches.

LT250R is right, lildaisygrl doesn't always translate my wordings right You want to run an extra steel plate in the stack.

These motors also heat up and the oil breaks down quick. You may want to consider doing an oil cooler mod.

What clutch kit did you put in it? It wasn't by any chance Barnett was it?

And synthetic motorcycle oil will not cause slippage. Automotive Synthetic will if it has friction reducers.

It's been ridden around the yard and up and down the street a few times. It'll be dirty tonight unfortunately heh.

It's running. Crummy CDI box. New one in and it's a kicking

Cool we're magazine racing. Dirt Wheels picked the craptor. :lol:

Bad wheel bearing(s), warped rotor, loose axle nuts. Sounds like you're getting movement of the rotor.

Wowsers.

Does everyone realize that these frames are painted from the factory? Tons of bikes leave the factory with painted parts.

Powder coat is very strong... I have/had plenty of things on my R1 powder coated. Powder coat is a fantastic upgrade and will hold up better and longer then paint.

We'll have no problems going the season with paint. The good thing about the northeast is you get 2-3 months of off-season and you can strip/clean/touch up. I have had plenty of dirt bikes that I have rocked painted frames on for an entire season and only seen wear in the factory wear location (heal, lower frame rails, underneith plastics and tank).

The good about painting is it's cheap, and later on down the road you can still get it powder coated.

wheelies?

I lost more then that by not eating heh

I feel for you. Diesel is $4.30 a gallon back here in NY

Drive safe!

Power washer works good. Set the nozzle to be thin and adjust your angle and that sucker will blow right off - get it like 1/2" from the plastics. I take off all my stickers this way and most of the time it doesn't even leave behind the sticky residue

But WD40 works great for removing the residue. Then clean with rubbing alcohol.

She is the coolest dog I've ever owned.

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This is her as a very little girl.

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My cat is the best. He'd sit on that little dog :lol

I've been wrenching for as long as I can remember. I Fear nuttin :lol

did you try heat?

Well dang I didn't think of that.

Problem with this little bastard is it's location. you can't get any thing into it. Machine shops don't want to touch it because you can't get a Lathe to it. Would have loved to have had that option - but truth is it'd cost more to have a machine shop get this thing out then to ebay a new frame. Which is the route I feared we may have been going.

So I tried a last ditch effort to persuade this nut it wanted to come out and it did. But I didn't use heat this time, just a die grinder with a dremel attachment and an air hammer (what a sweet little air tool)

won't be able to snap pics till later. I just brought it to a garage that the company I work for owns and I put 600lbs worth of impact power on it. Didn't budge. Went both ways.

They didn't have the time to put the torch to it. My little propane torch doesn't heat it enough I think.

Not sure how it is on other quads, on Yamahas, the bearing drops in and then you thread a retaining nut into the shaft, the shaft is threaded. It is real low torque and comes out with a 29mm Allen wrench. Then the bearing will pull right out of the top.

The issue is the retaining nut has snapped a 1/2" Ratchet which had a 4' breaker bar on it. This sucker is in there. Heating it to red hot then muscling it may just bend the bracket and not break it free.