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About ZacUSNYR

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  • Birthday 08/23/1981
  1. check the relays for broken wires and proper operation. they'll let the machine crank but not spark. there are two relays near the starter relay under the rear fender near the battery.
  2. That's an awesome price - I assume you have standard travel arms? Ishock will revalve them and send them back to you when you get them for no charge - just tell them what arms, weight, and type of riding.
  3. The Ishock stuff is fantastic. You won't be disappointed.
  4. How about a review from someone who actually owns one? Kawasaki built the thing to be a woods racer (hense the 46" wide wheelbase and reverse). With some money dumped into, it is a very potent MX quad. The factory gearing is really short. Outside and inside the transmission. I have an 08 KFX with -2 rear sprocket on it and it still is slow, top end. I had it pinned WFO and i'd guess 60MPH out of it. But it accelerates like a beotch. And first gear is really tall so it likes to stall if you're not clutch happy. Factory suspension is fantastic. Suffers from minor body roll, factory
  5. heh a raptor 700 is 4" wider then a Warrior.
  6. Chinese food isn't healthy for you lol
  7. I love the new 700s. Would love to be able to go pick one of those up I lust over them every time I see them at the dealer (ask lildaisygrl, she'll tell ya!). I'm not sure what year your previous Rhino was, but a $5200 trade in is a good deal for the dealer, if they fix it up, esp if you put the stock hood and such back on it. But I think this will hurt you if you bring this to the good ole American justice system. You're entitled to damages. Damages are now longer to repair, it's the value you would have lost on the trade in. Did the dealer tell you how much they would have given you
  8. A bunch of people on the raptor site I go to has tried these kits. They say they worked great, just the tie-rod extensions are junk and will fail. If you figure out what you want to run the arms and then spend the extra $100 for the extended tie rods- it's a decent kit that holds up better then front wheel spacers or crazy off-setted wheels.
  9. It's not because of the vague description of Synthetic oil. Honda says you can run Synthetic in both sides of the motor. Tranny side, run a Synthetic that has no Molybednium Disulfide. (They sell two versions of their HP4 oil, one with moly and one without - your manual I believe suggests GN4 or HP4, without moly).
  10. The Warrior is notorious for slipping clutches. LT250R is right, lildaisygrl doesn't always translate my wordings right You want to run an extra steel plate in the stack. These motors also heat up and the oil breaks down quick. You may want to consider doing an oil cooler mod. What clutch kit did you put in it? It wasn't by any chance Barnett was it? And synthetic motorcycle oil will not cause slippage. Automotive Synthetic will if it has friction reducers.
  11. It's been ridden around the yard and up and down the street a few times. It'll be dirty tonight unfortunately heh.
  12. It's running. Crummy CDI box. New one in and it's a kicking
  13. Cool we're magazine racing. Dirt Wheels picked the craptor. :lol:
  14. Bad wheel bearing(s), warped rotor, loose axle nuts. Sounds like you're getting movement of the rotor.
  15. Wowsers. Does everyone realize that these frames are painted from the factory? Tons of bikes leave the factory with painted parts. Powder coat is very strong... I have/had plenty of things on my R1 powder coated. Powder coat is a fantastic upgrade and will hold up better and longer then paint. We'll have no problems going the season with paint. The good thing about the northeast is you get 2-3 months of off-season and you can strip/clean/touch up. I have had plenty of dirt bikes that I have rocked painted frames on for an entire season and only seen wear in the factory wear loca

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