Bobby Belmain

I bought a 1995 Polaris scrambler 400l 4x4 out from under a pine tree here in northern Maine the only action it seen was a plow truck hit it twice in 9 years when I got it home I tore it down the starter and rewind was full of rusty mud cleaned the carburetor put a new plug 3.2 ounce bc oil gear case oil mustard bottle shot of gas in the cylinder wrapped a rope around the clutch and pulled wow sled motor right got about 20 hours of pure full throttle fun then I buried it in a little place we call fiddlehead run black mud that I swear locked up the tires on a Kawasaki brute and snapped a shaft I flew across the top anyways long story even longer I killed crank bearings complete engine rebuilt in my or I should say my wife's living room it was hard on her now its fleshly installed I ported and polished it new everything inside I want to out drag raptor 700's I hate guys that can't change a plug I want to keep the 4x4 but alot of weight also sprockets what's the best combination and my main jet should I change it and I want to know if I can add a nitrous kit to it does anyone know if it will take down a raptor 700 if not I'm gonna put an xc700 shortblock sled motor in it 

Good luck atv stolen around here all the time 

I went and got a 3/4 fine thread bolt and stuck two sockets roughly 4" long and when I put the impact on it it seems like it wants to strip the threads on theclutch 

Can't remove the clutch off my atv 

On 10/1/2009 at 12:31 AM, DirtDemon said:

If the kill switch is good, and you have no power at the coil, then there is a problem with the connection between the kill switch and the coil. Get out the electrical tester and start at the battery and start checking for continuity between every junction, switch, component and what not. Check your ground wires. Double check that kill switch, with the key on, there should be power at one pole of the kill switch, when you turn the kill switch to on, there should be power at the other pole.

I keep blowing the fuse

On 9/22/2009 at 6:09 AM, ATVmechanic said:

Try these tests:

Check the main switch which is located near the headlight I believe. It should be a 2-pin connector, white. Touch the one probe to the brown wire terminal and the other to the red wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the on position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the off position.

Check the start switch. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the 6-pin connector. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the black wire terminal and the other to the blue/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is pushed down and no continuity when the when the switch let off.

Check the kill switch, you'll need to remove the front fender. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the black two-pin connector with brown and red/black wires. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the red/white wire terminal and the other to the red/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the off position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the run position.

Check the clutch switch. Trace the wires that come out of the clutch switch and disconnect their two-pin connector. the clutch switch connectors from the clutch switch.

Touch one meter probe to the black/yellow wire and the other to the black wire. There should be continuity when the is pulled in and no continuity when the when the lever is released.

Solid information thanks