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I just leave half empty water glasses all over my house, just in case. When My wife calls me lazy, I tell her I’m prepping for the alien invasion. 🤣

So I changed out the steel winch cable on my CForce 800-2 to a synthetic I had gotten when I had my old outlander and just never put it on. That wasn’t too difficult but I had to open up the hole in the spool a bit to get the tail thru. But I got it thru put the set screw back in and wound it up. It’s one of those Amsteel type cables, 50’ with an 8’ sliding protection sleeve on the hook end. And I put on an aluminum hawse with a rubber stopper and new hook. (Which is like the Warn Epic hook. Might be a little big. Haha ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) And right before that, I pulled out the halogen headlights. Replaced them with these nifty dual color LEDs. (But because of the heat sinks on them I had to widen out the holes for the bulbs a little and then vacuum all the dust out of the light housing with an improvised headlight vacuum. Haha) But they fit and the lights are yellow on regular beam and high beam switches them white). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey peeps, so I’m about to change out my steel cable for a synthetic with a smooth aluminum hawse instead of a fair lead. (Did this on my old Canam and liked it a lot better) I know there’s mixed ideas on steel cables vs synthetic, but I’ve had that discussion already. for how I use it the synthetic works best for me. What imma ask about here is are there any tips on switching the cable out on our CF machines? Or is it basically the same as any Warn-type ATV winch? Cuz like CFMOTO uses these Winchy McPullerton brand ones (which really does seem to be the same as any other winch I’ve had,) just haven’t messed with this one much in the way of maintenance yet, so I figured I’d ask about any surprises. I also like that the roller fairlead nuts are captured in the frame. That part was a PITA on my canam cuz they were free, but hardly any room back there to brace them. CFMOTO has done (IMO) a great job on these machines making them a lot like what were already used to in terms of design and common style parts so I anticipate this to not be much different. Just figured I’d ask. Thanks for any input. [emoji1598] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

HAha awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haven’t changed the plug on my 800 yet, but the 500 must be different as there’s nothing about a special tool I my manual. Hopefully you can use a pretty standard bit. Let us know how it works out tho. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Huh. I had no idear. [emoji23][emoji23] thanks! So I’m assuming it’s currently at an 8 brightness. I’ll have to check it out my next chance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’ve had this bike for 3 years now. Love it. But there’s one question I never got an answer to. And maybe by now somebody’s figured it out... The instrument cluster has 5 screens... Odometer, Trip, tach, battery voltage, and a screen that says “L 16H 8”. Does anyone know what the sh** this means? See pic. It’s never changed. And those aren’t words. Hahah Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha funny when I bought it I was thinking the same thing. And still do. And now I think I may actually keep it when the SXS comes. AND it may be a cfmoto SXS that I get when I get one. For all the same reasons I got this one. If actually seen a few on the trails and the guys riding them have the same general feeling about those that I do about the atv. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 2016 that I bought new on a similar deal. I’ve had nothing but fun on it since and I traded my Can Am Outlander 800 XT for it. It’s really a sturdy bike with plenty of features. And if you look under it you can tell where they got the design. Haha it’s almost like the front half is a Polaris sportsman and the back half is an Outlander. It’s a great bike for half the dough and I got that “hey dude you get what you pay for” when I took the jump too, but you really don’t. Hahhaah. Cfmoto has been keeping them cheap in the states and taking most deals on trades cuz they wanna get em out on the trails. And I’ve been on more than a few 100+ mile trips now and it’s got great gas mileage and it’s been one of the only bikes in every group that doesn’t break down out there. (Know wood!!!!) but honestly. It’s really well made. And the locking diff is the shizzz. No complaints from me other than mine is from the year they have a foot brake for the rear and a hand brake for the front and it’s on the same side as the throttle. I’d rather thee be a hand brake on the opposite handle for front and rear like my can ams always were, but not a deal braker(See what i did there?). You get used to it. But I think they’ve fixed that in newer models. Not sure tho. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also have a Cforce 800. And I experience the same. The bike has to move a hair to get the gear shift to drop in to park and reverse. It’s actually not unlike the Canam I had before this. So when you’re stopped on a hill trying to shift into park or whatever, just stand up and give ‘er a little wiggle front to back. That said I really wish these had a handbrake lock like most other bikes. ESP for hauling. CFMOTO says not to tie it down and haul it in park cuz you can damage the “gear” lock. Normally I would put it in neutral and lock the brake, but this one I have to crank down and chock the front wheels in the truck bed. And some of them are actually made with parking brakes now if you look at the US manuals for the newer models. Just really inconsistent with the configs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk