HeWasRidinDirty

I pulled the stator cover and stator off today. It looks like the key on the flywheel is ok. Is there a way to check the timing with a timing light? I really don't know. If it was an old car or truck, then.....LOL. I'll post up some pics of what I found inside the stator cover a bit later.

Oh, ya, the lobes. They seem to be in about the same location. If they are aftermarket cams, then, the keyway is probably irrelevant.

Didja look at the pics that I posted? Those 1 2 3 marks aint on there. That's the crux of the matter. 😉

I'm going to email hot cams inc. and ask them if these look like their stuff. These are definitley not OEM camshafts. IDK what else to do.

Hmmm IDK. If you look at the diagram that you put up, and also on the video, you will notice on the intake cam that the keyway is at about 1 oclock and 11 oclock on the exhaust. Now, look at the first pics I put up before I took it apart. On the intake the key is at about 11 and on the exhaust it's at about 3 oclock. Fuuuuuuuu... something smells here. LOL

Here's the back. It ain't on backwards

There are no marks on the sprockets other than the IN that you can see at about the 10 o'clock position in the first pic. There is an EX stamped opposite side. Same on both sprockets. You might be onto something about them being on backwards. I'm gonna pull them out.

So ,here is the cam sprockets. This is at TDC. I didn't do any of the paint. Notice those bolts? The white dots on the cam lobes denote the center of the lobe. I did those. Aren't those supposed to be 180 from each other at TDC?

Backwards?? that may be it. These cam sprockets have bolts in them that look out of place. Like someone "made it work" at some point. I'll put some pics up later. On this video there are no bolts on the cam sprockets. Weird

I may have to take a look at that. It did the same before I took it apart and checked the valves. Someone has had it apart before that, tho. Read my 2nd post. It doesn't have marks on the cam sprockets like described in the Y.T vids that I watched.

Thank you. It seems like the spark is ok with a new plug. But also when I crank it over it struggles when ever it hits the compression stroke. I thought it was a weak battery so I got new larger lawn equipment battery, fully charged, and I hook it up via jumper cables and it does the same thing. You think the starter is bad/weak? It pops and acts like it wants to start, but, it seems if it was spinning faster, it would. I wonder if I could bump start it with a truck or quad? That might answer that question.

Oh, and also the camshaft timing seems odd to me. I watched a couple of utube vids and both pointed out a "3" on the intake cam sprocket and a "2" on the exhaust sprocket. The one I'm working on has neither. Each sprocket has EX on one side and IN on the other, not directly opposite each other, either. Someone had painted IN/EX on the sprockets and put some white dots on them where they line up with the top of the cylinder head. IDK if these are some aftermarket camshafts or what.

I got this 400, that wouldn't start. It would try, but wouldn't catch. I checked the valves and the L intake was tight at .002. The compression came in around 120. It didn't improve after a couple of drops of oil into the cylinder. So,I figured it was the valve causing the problem. So, I got the valves squared away, but it still won't start. I checked the spark and it seems like it's getting an intermittent spark. It fires a few times then nothing. If l let up on the button and then hit again immediately, it will fire a few more times, then repeat. So, what am I looking at as a possibility? Electrical issues are not my strong point. LOL

Ok, thanks. I'm gonna look into that. 👊

Idk if it can be milled down far enough to get a smooth surface again. So, that piston is 3mm over stock. That's a big jump. So the stock head can be used with that big of jump?

What would cause the corrosion like that? Extended sitting?

Yep. Here we go. It looks like some corrosion on the cylinder head. It's right on the edge of the combustion chamber. That's gotta be where the water is leaking. I noticed that there is water in the oil too. Looks like someone put a big bore kit in this thing? 95mm is stock bore.

I haven't quite got the head off yet. I'm close. The thermo switch for the fan is no good. I've checked that. I'm studying the service manual some before I go tearing the head off. It's close to coming off. I just gotta get the camshafts out and the head bolts off. Everything else is off/ disconnected.

I haven't been able to tear into it yet. Other things....... But, I did notice that it says Athena on the cylinder. Aftermarket cylinder right? Oh, boy.....😬

Thanks, peeps. I'll probably start on it tomorrow and see whats what. Merry Christmas! 🎄

Hello all. I got this yzf for almost nothing. It's in pretty good shape. However, it's pretty stubborn on cold start-up. I noticed while cranking it over that there was water dripping from what appeared to be the exhaust where the pipe bolts on. It did fire up and I could smell coolant in the exhaust. The P.O has installed a toggle switch for the cooling fan. I'm thinking that maybe it overheated and cracked the head or something? Any tips/ advice is much appreciated.