opiewhitaker

hey opie .. its already fixed lol... aparently you didnt read all of it b4 you posted ...

ok if you have any troubles let me know and il do what i can.

make sure your tank not clogged or your brake line hasnt clapsed internaly check your brake pads maybe worn out and your calipher may be fully extended as well as your rotor.

Got all my pieces for Christmas and installed the new drive sprocket (13T) new driven sprocket (38T) and a new 520 xtg chain. Made the chain same size as factory chain and it was too long. It would touch the skid plate. I removed another link and side plates. Now the chain is half a link too short. I cannot get enough adjustment on the slack adjuster. To topf it off on one end i broke a roller so that link has to come out too. Would i be able to add a half link and maybe rivet the repair in?? I know DID has a rivet link but i cant find one for sunstar.

I repair non oring chains (#40 - #120) alot on industrial equipment so im familiar with half links and adding aditional links with cotter pin style links and master links. But thats low speed 200 - 300 rpm and high torque.

520 chain seems to be voodoo magic to me.

What should I do at this point?? Help im dying to try this sprocket combo..

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did you losein the four bolts on your swing arm and roletate your axle forward ajust your slack while your sitting on the bike if you dont the chain will be to tight when you mount your bike resulting in streaching your chain and sproket wear before its time.

i have a 2010 honda rancher trx420tm (footshift 2wd). i have on a couple of occasions accidentally shifted up without lifting off the throttle (known as a flatshift, or no-lift shift). i assume this is bad for it, but can't find any information thats says either, "yes, its fine" or "no, never do that".

it doesn't make any unusual noises, or do anything that would suggest improper operation (no sudden jerking motions, no hard shifting at other times).

any ideas?

it definately is quicker than shifting normally, just hoping this won't cause anything to break.

speed shifting can cause damage to cluthes and most of all damage to your clucth basket notch wear breaking of clutch basket ears if done repeatedly bent shifting forks it wont shift because clutches cant float/slide inside the basket.

hey guys got another ? bout my ex..... today i was losenin up the bolts on the back of the swing arm to tighten my chain and a bunch of liquid started runnin out..... it ran out for like 5 min any idea wat tht is?

Also i have been having problems with the sprockets feelin like they r slipping..... today i was tryin to make sure the loose chain and wore sprockets were the problem...... i held in the front brake and started to take off slowly and the back by the sprocket was makin a grinding sound but chain doesnt look like it is slipppin at all....... wen i am turnin it gets worse any ideas wat tht might be?

sounds likre the carrier bearning is out and causing the axle to run in a angle the fuild is water that sucked in over time

check master cylinder inner rubber brake line could be calapsed calipher could be maxed out due to wornin padds or worin rotor most of the time its the slave cylinder.

well my buddy has a quad thats been sitting since 09, it runs and everything just needs a few parts. The quad is a 2001 Honda 400EX sportrax, the parts is needs is a left rear hub, battery, chain, and a new exhaust(muffler only). he told me $600 and it was mine. this would be my first "sport" quad, just not really sure if its a good deal or not. its never been rolled er anything just trail riden by his father. if this is a good deal what do you guys think id be looking at for parts, money wise like $300?

its gonna cost more then 300 dollars an excust pipe is more then that i preffer a trinty drag pipe it comes with a new header and pipe for 400 a good chain is about 80-120 dallars rear hubs usealy start around 150 and a oem battery is around 120.

Just out of curiosity does it pull to the left when you get a wheelie going?

it may vere do to the chain being on the let side low tire pressure bearing carrier being out the way you are setting on the seat. tread tire wear differnt size tires in height and in wideth

I have an 02 400ex and it pulls to the left any idea wats wrong with it... thanks

it can be serveal things tie rods out of wack bent sterring stem or a wropped frame mitch matched tires on beenng taller then the other.

well i went and bought my first sport quad. a 2002 honda TRX400EX quad for 600 bucks. it needs a new bearing carrier, tail light, battery box,battery, airbox lid, muffler, chain and 1 more set of brake pads. this is it i just got it home.

my questions are,

1. on the rear end of all the 400ex's on the left hand side i see a cyclinder type deal on the sub frame what is that since mine doesnt have it?

2. when i put an after market exhaust on here do i need to rejet? since all these pipes ive been looking at so no need to rejet blah blah blah

3. on the airbox theres a 2nd tube running from the box to the top of the motor what does that do and do i need it? since theres no filter on it so i didnt figure it did anything.

the round container you see is the fractory tool box the the tube you are talking about is a vent to releave the crank case pressure and recirulates the air back into the air intake boot alot of people will disconnect this and replce it with a small micro filter that can be bought at oreilys auto parts do not leave open drit and grimm will result in engine damage. it suggested to jet most carbs with after market pipes dealing with air/fuel and back pressure that is needed to make any motor to run.

wat have u guys beat with ur quad???................. i have beat an 08 400ex with a yoshi exhaust and rejetted, an 07 400ex with hmf performance pipe rejetted, yamaha dirt bike 125

4-stroke, a honda 100 dirt bike 4-stroke, outlaw 525 with stock pipe with baffle out and rejetted, 300ex with mods,and a couple of other good quads....... my 400ex has white bros exhaust and rest is stock.... let me here wat u guys have beat?

my bike has out run 400s 450rs 350 banshees and 450yfzs 700 raptors and chevy pickups.

While going on a neighborhood run,I lost my rear brake. Well not lost as in missed placed but my brake pedal went instantly to the lever stop. When I am pushing the atv by hand I can stop the quad with the rear brake but above 15 mph its like i am not using any brake. Rechecked the pads at half way. I have about little more than half way between full and empty marks on the brake resevoir of fluid. Should I bleed or did I just blow out my master cylinder?

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check your master cylinder and check your brake pads if they worn bad the calipher is maxed out and wont apply the brakes plus your brake rotor can be worn.

While going on a neighborhood run,I lost my rear brake. Well not lost as in missed placed but my brake pedal went instantly to the lever stop. When I am pushing the atv by hand I can stop the quad with the rear brake but above 15 mph its like i am not using any brake. Rechecked the pads at half way. I have about little more than half way between full and empty marks on the brake resevoir of fluid. Should I bleed or did I just blow out my master cylinder?

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check your master cylinder but also check your brake pad thickness the best place to order your parts from that found out is to buy from motorsport .com.

I know Im detuning but its getting annoying riding with an open airbox. I ordered a closed lid cuz sucking in water is not fun. I have the chain drive apart and im waiting for my 13t front sprocket to come in. That should make up for any torque loss with the closed box right?

My questions are, while I have the carb apart for its winter cleaning do I have to rejet for the closed lid? It already has a Dynojet stage 2 kit in it. Also should I go back to the colder spark plug (DPR8Z). In there already is a DPR9Z

no it wont it can give your bike more launch power but make your bike run slower in mph it will make your bike wheelie more your gear ratio will be differnt for every tooth you take off the front sprocket you will lose 3 teeth off the rear srocket your oem is a 15 -38 hondas biggest rear sproket is a 42 i would go with a 14-42 thts what i run on my bikebut my motor has been upgraded 4mil crank 460 big bore kit with astage 2 hot cam and a 38-42 electron carb on a open are box actualy the air box has been removed and added a k/n air filter but remember the more jetting done to your carb the more air is required.

i was wondering if anybody knows if there is a oil filter cover gasket. this is for a 2000 honda 400ex with a big bore kit. the reason i ask is because i changed the oil and filter once i changed the filter and put the cover back on and oil started leaking out around the cover.

it takes a oring not a gasket

How easy should the idle screw turn? I can turn mine with my fingers and little pressure.

Is this too easy? If so how would I tighten the screw itself:

your idle scerw is missing the spring

i would use vipers on douglas ultra lites

i would use vipers

check your intake boot for dry rot cracks and pin holes will cause this and check choke pistion check and make sure the choke is not closing when reve the motor.

cool thanks for the help!

i would change it at least 4 times a year.

My atv broke down 4 months ago and I cranked it every other week and had no problem. Now I got every thing put back together and tried to start it and now I am not getting any fire to the spark plug . Anyone have any ideas ?

check your kill switch it may have shorted out im guessing need to know what type of bike would help.

Im about to buy a 2002 400ex and my buddy is selling it to me for 300 bucks he told me he was out riding it and it ran out of oil and locked up. when he got home he said the oil drain plug came out and all the oil drained. he hasnt messed with it since last summer. i need your guys input on whether i should buy it and what to look for when i pick it up. oh and what you think could be wrong and what ill have to replace

Thanks guys

its a good price junk ones here are going for as mush as 1500 and look like junk replace oil pump crank oil filter and piston and maybe the sleve.

Well my husband did adjust the valves, but i am thinking thats where the sound is coming from. As for the howling, it doesnt make that sound its just the phone we took the vid with that made it sound that bad.

Thanks all for the input so far :-)

400/ex s are bad about ticking mine does it and it completely new check your timming chain tensor when you rebuild a 400 always check ur timming slides and crank gear and replace the timming chain the howling part sounds like the oil pump not pumping enough oil you always need to replace the oil and oil filter at least 4 times a year i change mine every 4 races on a average as many times as 20 and you do deceide to change out the crank go with a welded on i would go with a 4mil hot rod crank with a 460 big bore with a stage 2 cam.these motors genarate a lot of heat and friction so oil changes are a must.

thats great that you got your bike going what did you find out to the problem?

sounds like head gasket problems or cracked head and its allowing water to mix with the gas creating more water than gas when reve it up now you have more gas then water let it die check plug for water beads.