Quantcast
Jump to content


Josh Cornelius

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Josh Cornelius

  1. just rebuilt the carbs because it sat up for a few years and wouldn't run at all. now it idles, but only with choke. you can give it just a little throttle but not much before it tries to die, take choke off, it dies (warm or cold temp). air fuel mixture doesn't really effect it at all and it'll still idle with mixture screws all the way in. any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!

  2. I don't believe they made the bear tracker in 4x4.. but the bear tracker, timberwolf and wolverine of these models were identical.. and it was several years they all looked identical.. that's why it's so hard to tell what it is or the year model.. and yes, both bikes are complete except the mystery bike is missing the pull cord assembly and if the big bear had a factory winch, it's missing but if it didn't come with a winch then it's 100% complete.. no manuals for the big bear, but haven't checked the mystery bike yet.. I'm gonna go out on a limb tho and say it's gone.. lol.. but I'm gonna get new ones for both.. and it's gonna be very awesome seeing them revived considering they haven't been ran in close to 9 years.. they've just been sitting up in a grassy tomb.. as far as a budget, I didn't really wanna be over 1500 to 2000 because if I ever decided to sell them, that's about all I would get out of them.. but considering I got both together for 200 bucks, I should be well under that mark.. and I always use eBay for just about everything.. that's where I've gotten all the parts for the bear so far and found the hotshot performance cdi for it.. thanks, and hopefully I can be of help to yall one day and return the favor..

    • Like 1
  3. aight.. it'll be a bit, I'm at work till 7 so it'll be dark but I should be able to get enough light on it.. this specific model the bodies were the same on the Timberwolves, bear trackers and wolverines.. but if I'm not mistaken, bear trackers only came in 2wd, this bike is 4wd so that should rule out bear trackers.. I hope.. lol.. and yes, waiting on parts sucks but well worth it.. if I'm off and I know the parts will be in, I sit outside and wait on the mail lady antsy as hell.. lol

  4. wsu's? and will do.. after this one, I have another bike I bought that's supposedly out of time.. but the big question is why.. also, with the other bike, I don't know what it is or the year model.. that's another problem.. no stickers and it had a like a paint stamp serial number and that thing is long gone.. I do know it's either a Timberwolve or a wolverine 250 4x4.. I'll post pics of it too and see if anyone can guess what it is.. lol.. I got it and the big bear together for 200 bucks.. so even if they needed new engines they were worth it.. but both are complete bikes and all plastic is in good shape so I couldn't pass em up..

  5. I jumped it at the end of the wire where it plugs into the switch, so it's definitely the switch.. well there are 2, one on top of the motor and one on the bottom by the shifter.. the top one triggers the relay so I believe it's good, but the bottom one does not trigger the relay and I didn't test it, but I'm pretty positive it's the neutral light culprit.. and I recon I'm gonna spring for the cdi and key switch and see where that puts me.. plus at least at that point I'll know they are new..

  6. yeah, they on up there.. I have 200 in the bike and a hot shot cdi is 195.. lol.. key switch is only 9 bucks tho and a full harness is 100.. so even if I replaced it all 500 bucks ain't bad at all.. but yeah, so far I replaced stator, ignition coil, carb and intake.. yeah, the neutral bulb was bad so I swapped it with the reverse bulb temporarily because it was working and it still never came on until I bypassed the neutral switches.. so I'm assuming one of them is bad also.. but jumped, the light does come on now..

  7. I have not ohm tested it because I just replaced it yesterday.. do you think I should with it being new? also, how could I test if it's sending signal to the cdi? the cdi is getting a good ground to it but nothing is coming out so I figured if I could test to see if something was goin in the cdi then I figured that would narrow it down to the cdi.. my key switch is acting funny too, if I barely turn it towards off, it kicks out the relays before it's even off, and sometimes I have to play with it to get it to kick them on.. seems like the whole electrical has taken a hit from something.. might as well replace the key switch, cdi and whole harness, by then it should work.. lol

  8. ok, update: tested all relays, all are working, used a jumper and bypassed the neutral switches and got the neutral light to come on but still no fire.. also found a blue and white wire coming from the headlight, start, run\off switch that apparently got really hot as most of the coating was burnt off of it but didn't burn any others.. according to the wire diagram that wire runs from the run\off switch and goes straight to the cdi and is basically a ground because it connects with a black wire while in the "run" position.. I'm guessing that may have fried the cdi but the black wire isn't burnt.. any ideas? could the cdi be ok? maybe I could just ground the blue wire coming from the cdi and see if it fires? thanks for all the help.. that diagram was extremely helpful @Frank Angerano.. appreciate that

    • Like 1
  9. @Frank Angerano I'm assuming the neutral relay is Workin because I could hear it clicking when I touched the ground to the switch while in neutral.. I used a volt meter on both neutral grounds and both had a closed circuit while in neutral and broke it when shifting out of neutral.. I haven't tried a jumper wire yet, was tryin to get everything to work on it's on before I had to force it, but that's definitely a good idea.. one of the other relays is reverse and I'm assuming it works because it clicks when I shift to reverse and the reverse light comes on.. I replaced the ignition coil and stator tryin to see if I could get it to fire, but no luck without neutral light.. I also used my volt meter on the neutral grounds and they were both good grounds to the battery and motor.. and by testing the neutral switch I just read continuity from the switch to the end of the wire while circuit was opened and closed.. (no reading opened and got a reading when closed circuit).. I will try a jumper tomorrow and check the other relays and let you know what I find.. if you think of anything else to try feel free to add.. all help is greatly appreciated..

×
×
  • Create New...