kgrant

Fixing up a 1998 King Quad 300. The rear brake was locked up, and the owner tried to force it free and snapped the axle.

I disconnected the brake cable, and tapped on the backing plate with a soft mallet to get the brake freed up. When I pulled off the brake drum a bunch of nasty rust water came out.

Once I had the axle out, I popped the boot off so I could see the inner u joint so I could phase/synchronize it with the outer. There was a flat steel disc floating around in the boot, looks like it used to be pressed into the end of the axle. Glad I got that out of there before it munched up the joint.

The book says the yokes should be aligned, I couldn't get mine aligned. They were always 7 degrees off from each other. A bit frustrating, maybe that's within the tolerance limits?

But I got it all back together and it runs great.

I would go with a Deka or Yuasa AGM battery.

The Dekas are often rebranded with other logos, same battery though. Around here Napa, Auto Zone and Oriellys have Deka with their own logo on them. They should say made by East Penn in the USA.

Stay away from batteries and Bulbs Extreme AGM batteries.

It might be easier and cheaper to buy a new ignition switch.

Pressure testing a Polaris 250 trailblazer with motion pro tester. Atv leaks down from 6 psi to  3 and hold there and I can’t kind a leak with water and dawn soap. . New to pressure testing a atv but have done 100s of saws etc. was going to order clutch puller and flywheel puller andCheck seals. Also notice that there is a clutch alignment tool, do I need this if i pull clutch? 

Check out this article.

https://atv.polaris.com/en-us/self-help/article/KA-01001/

Thanks!

I'd like to see some pictures of your shifter!

well, I replaced the cam shaft, rocker arms, adjusted valves. same thing. excessive fuel. I took apart the old carb and inspected it, it looks really clean and all jets were clean, float doesn't stick. I put the inline spark tester on, looks great, great spark, no breakdown. fuel pump arrived yesterday and I will hopefully install tonight. I holding out hope, but not sure. I really don't understand why out of no where I would have an issue with too much fuel on two different carbs????? hoping for the fuel pump, but not sure how a simple mechanical fuel pump would cause over fueling, would not the float stop this from happening? I have adjusted the eclip up (reduce fuel) still same issue..... ill post the results of the fuel pump upon replacement.... any other ideas....

That great. I’ve walked into so many places and no was the answer.  Then you walk into the right guy that says yea I can splice that! 
Thats great news brother.  Little by little, keep at it.  
Keep us posted and the pics coming!! 

I had to have the rear brake hose repaired since it's no longer available. Local hydraulic shop was able to reuse the metal ends and replace the rubber.





New brake pads came in too!

Slowly whittling away at it.

Have you tried giving it a little choke while the engine is dying, just to see what happens?

Measure the cam lobe, there's not much room but I was able to measure mine to see if it was within spec.

Maybe both carbs have a leaking needle valve?

Like ti the bottom of the air bix? And what kind of white filter is that?

There should be a hose with a white filter, like the one in this picture, connected to that fitting. The other end of it goes to the airbox.

Some oil coming out is normal.

It's the crank case breather. Should have a hose going to the air box.

I'll look at mine tomorrow.

Awesome pics brother.  Doing great, keep up the good work.   

Gear case parts came in! I read through the service manual a few times and dove into it. Went really smooth! Ready for install, probably be tomorrow's project.

Well, good bad news and good news.

The bad; I was idling the engine tuning the carburator, and it seized up! Couldn't budge it with the starter or recoil. Pulled the spark plug and recoil cover and was able to break the engine free using the flywheel. Loud squealing from the cylinder. Put oil in the cylinder and turned it over a dozen times. Put the recoil cover back on, and used the electric start and turned it over a bunch more.

Then I decided to drain the oil. Normal 2 quarts from the tank. Then I pulled the oil filter, it was bone dry! Pulled the crank case plug, about 4 drops came out! WTF! There's normally about a cup in the crank case.

So I'm thinking man, I guess the oil pump failed?

The good; Started looking at a drawing of the oil system and compared it to mine, and found the hoses on the oil pump were backwards! The previous owner had three oil tank off, guess they goofed up on the hoses. Swapped the hoses, started it up and the motor sounds a little better, but now there's lots of blow by because it's getting oil, lol. I'm glad I found the reason why it wasn't getting oil before I took the oil pump apart.

You're checking the gearbox oil level, not transmission. Either it works out doesn't. If it's difficult to shift into gear the linkage might need to be adjusted. If it grinds when you're trying to shift it, the engine idle is too high.

You have a CVT system, that's the transmission. Sounds like combination of worn belt and clutch springs. I would download the service manual and go through the troubleshooting section.

I went through the carburator today and got her running.

Doesn't sound very healthy! I listened all over the engine with a screwdriver to my ear and couldn't pinpoint the noise.

Since I don't know  just how the clutch is removed , I  can  only comment  on the  water trick.  It sounds like the same trick  used in the automotive trade for removing  bushings in blind holes (  mainly  the pilot bushing in  the flywheel on cars with standard trannies) . Instead of water,  use  grease. no worry  about  it spilling out of the hole no matter what angle it is on.

Post #6, I'm wrong on the valve clearance specification. The spec is .006", not .0024". Too late to edit my post...

Thanks, just what I was looking for!