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kgrant

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Everything posted by kgrant

  1. kgrant

    kgrant

  2. Fixing up a 1998 King Quad 300. The rear brake was locked up, and the owner tried to force it free and snapped the axle. I disconnected the brake cable, and tapped on the backing plate with a soft mallet to get the brake freed up. When I pulled off the brake drum a bunch of nasty rust water came out. Once I had the axle out, I popped the boot off so I could see the inner u joint so I could phase/synchronize it with the outer. There was a flat steel disc floating around in the boot, looks like it used to be pressed into the end of the axle. Glad I got that out of there before it munched up the joint. The book says the yokes should be aligned, I couldn't get mine aligned. They were always 7 degrees off from each other. A bit frustrating, maybe that's within the tolerance limits? But I got it all back together and it runs great.
  3. I would go with a Deka or Yuasa AGM battery. The Dekas are often rebranded with other logos, same battery though. Around here Napa, Auto Zone and Oriellys have Deka with their own logo on them. They should say made by East Penn in the USA. Stay away from Batteries and Bulbs Extreme AGM batteries.
  4. It might be easier and cheaper to buy a new ignition switch.
  5. You don't need a clutch alignment tool if you pull the clutch off. Just torque it to 40 ftlbs when you're putting it back on. How much pressure should it hold for how long?
  6. Check out this article. https://atv.polaris.com/en-us/self-help/article/KA-01001/
  7. I'd like to see some pictures of your shifter!
  8. I would double check that the choke is adjusted correctly and the plunger isn't stuck. Check the pilot screw adjustment, should be 2 turns out from lightly seated. Test the needle and seat, should be able to hold 5 psi.
  9. I've used this shop many times, they're always great to deal with. Often times it's cheaper to have them make a power steering or oil cooler hose than buy a new one, and they use arctic grade hose that I've never had fail. This was the first time I've had them repair a brake hose. I had them add 1 inch of hose so it wouldn't rub like the old one did.
  10. I had to have the rear brake hose repaired since it's no longer available. Local hydraulic shop was able to reuse the metal ends and replace the rubber. New brake pads came in too! Slowly whittling away at it.
  11. Have you tried giving it a little choke while the engine is dying, just to see what happens?
  12. Measure the cam lobe, there's not much room but I was able to measure mine to see if it was within spec.
  13. Maybe both carbs have a leaking needle valve?
  14. Looks like it's right next to the carb. Here's the filter.
  15. There should be a hose with a white filter, like the one in this picture, connected to that fitting. The other end of it goes to the airbox. Some oil coming out is normal.
  16. It's the crank case breather. Should have a hose going to the air box.
  17. Thanks! I had time before work and was able to get the gearbox in the frame.
  18. Gear case parts came in! I read through the service manual a few times and dove into it. Went really smooth! Ready for install, probably be tomorrow's project.
  19. Well, good bad news and good news. The bad; I was idling the engine tuning the carburator, and it seized up! Couldn't budge it with the starter or recoil. Pulled the spark plug and recoil cover and was able to break the engine free using the flywheel. Loud squealing from the cylinder. Put oil in the cylinder and turned it over a dozen times. Put the recoil cover back on, and used the electric start and turned it over a bunch more. Then I decided to drain the oil. Normal 2 quarts from the tank. Then I pulled the oil filter, it was bone dry! Pulled the crank case plug, about 4 drops came out! WTF! There's normally about a cup in the crank case. So I'm thinking man, I guess the oil pump failed? The good; Started looking at a drawing of the oil system and compared it to mine, and found the hoses on the oil pump were backwards! The previous owner had three oil tank off, guess they goofed up on the hoses. Swapped the hoses, started it up and the motor sounds a little better, but now there's lots of blow by because it's getting oil, lol. I'm glad I found the reason why it wasn't getting oil before I took the oil pump apart. Ran it a bunch more, no smoke from the exhaust. Just the crankcase vent. So I guess a minimum I'm going to need rings. This thing is turning into more of a project than I anticipated! Looks like I can remove the cylinder without taking the engine out. I know, I should go through the whole engine. The plan for this is to take it to the cabin, where it might get 10 miles a year put on it. I'll risk the rest of the engine as long as there's no big peices that come out when I change the oil again.
  20. You're checking the gearbox oil level, not transmission. Either it works out doesn't. If it's difficult to shift into gear the linkage might need to be adjusted. If it grinds when you're trying to shift it, the engine idle is too high. You have a CVT system, that's the transmission. Sounds like combination of worn belt and clutch springs. I would download the service manual and go through the troubleshooting section.
  21. I went through the carburator today and got her running. Doesn't sound very healthy! I listened all over the engine with a screwdriver to my ear and couldn't pinpoint the noise.
  22. Yes, this is the same trick. You can put anything in the hole that won't compress. I've read where people have even used bread.
  23. Post #6, I'm wrong on the valve clearance specification. The spec is .006", not .0024". Too late to edit my post...
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