Kelby 746

Okay so I fixed the rough idle situation, the air fuel screw backed itself off by 2 extra turns, it still does not want to start cold, it takes about 10 seconds of cranking instead of about 20 though but another issue has shown up, there is a catch inside the motor, I think the starter is going bad but it cranks and sounds fine even runs fine. The motor will spin once without issue but as soon as it gets about half way through a second revolution it hits something and you have to keep bumping the starter (about 5-15 bumps of the starter will free it up) and sometimes it’ll catch again about 6 revs later.

I say “rebuild” I found a cheap carb we had around that had the same part number and took the jet inlets and used them, used some of the gaskets and a few of the screws because when I took of the bowl some of the screws stripped. I have the fuel mixture back off 2.5 turns From the bottom. I have played a bit with it and that seems to be the best running position. I’ve found people have the screw backed off anywhere from 2.5 to 3.5 turns. I’m still using the OEM jets, I was able to clean them out and used air and carb cleaner on them, shook them in a gas and oil mixture (90% gas 10% oil) and then cleaned them off again with carb cleaner, they didn’t seem to be that clogged besides what little trash was in them.

Hey y’all I got a kfx 400, rebuilt the carb put bigger inlets on it, adjusted the fuel mixture screw 2.5 turns out and cleaned the fuel petcock. It starts up not so great, it takes full throttle with full choke and cranks for about 10-20 seconds before it fires and while “ideling” it surges very bad and I’ve messed with the idle set and it changes nothing, if you ride it casually it runs fine but as soon as you get on it for more than 4 seconds it stumbles and falls flat on its face and you have to wait for the carb to fill back up with fuel, I’ve checked everything and nothing is blocking fuel, I even put a bigger hose to see if that made a difference. Thanks for reading hopping to hear someone has some advice.

Yes I checked them, read out fine.

But tell me does anyone know if it’s compatible? Does the circuit have to be a complete loop or can I have lighting connections missing and it’ll still run?

I’ve already opened the original one up and every single wire is burned up, twelve volt surges don’t do too good on those little bitty wires. A 92 is also compatible? I’ve looked literally everywhere for one and could not find a compatible one.

Okay so the original harness got surged when I was testing connections and it burned the wires up and you cannot no matter what you say, can not convince anyone to replicate a 1989 harness, so I started looking for a used one and found a so called exact same one on Craigslist, I bought it along with a brake caliper for a spare. Got the harness it fit and the lights turned on and the started clunked, it’s no good, which was a lot more than what it did originally, fast forward a few months I get a new ecu and get a used complete left side cover for a 2002 220cc not a 300cc, again curtesy of idiots not knowing what a vin number is on a bike. Switched of the pickup coil because the original was no good, now it has a good pickup coil, good ecu, same regulator that has backwards readings, and a harness that is for a 2000-2004 Kawasaki bayou 300 2x4.

Okay following up to my wheeler I found out the year, 1989 Kawasaki 300c 4x4 and turns out I bought a used 2000-2004 4x2, does anyone know if the extra wiring for the work light, difflock, and brake light sensors would cause a problem with spark? I got a new pickup coil and it shows good, new ecu, and proven good stator, proven good, key and shut off switch. Anyone have any conversion information?

so I did what you said and everything reads out as follows: two ohms with it set on 200 ohms but reading set at 2 ohms and none set at 20 ohms. There is no short within, it does not register a reading from probe in stator to probe on ground for any.

The starter is completely shot, the generator inside is completely flat. And I did all the connections with the stator and it read 8 ohms all the way through, a little low but by hand seems about right to me at least.

Okay I switched around connections on the pickup coil and now it’s reading .45 ohms all the time and .70 when I crank it with the hand because the staters bad. I also have a book with all the wiring diagrams for every year. I look at the 1987-89 klf 300 4x4 for mine and it matches up perfectly.

Another thing, I cannot find a vin. It just has the KLF 300c Made in USA sticker.

I’m testing right at the pickup coil and I know everything moves freely because I had charge at the stator, I’ve been trying to deal with this for about 9 months now and up to about $500 in parts. I’ll try the new stator idea thanks.

I have a 1987-89 (not sure on the year) Kawasaki bayou 300 that has electrical issues, I have replaced the entire harness with a proven good/used one, new CDI box, and two brand new coils, problem is that it tests no charge at the pickup coil, so I replaced and tested again with a so called good one that had been salvaged out of a blown up 220/250 (not sure which, the left side cover is smaller than my 300) in Missouri. It has a proven good OEM stator. I am trying to avoid buying a new start and pickup coil because it is so expensive so if anyone has a suggestion please let me know.