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About Dimelol

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  • Location Oxford, AL, USA

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  1. @Frank Angerano @spock58 I put everything back together well enough to start the 4 wheeler to see if it changed anything, no luck. I did record a clip of how it sounds at idle for you guys to see if it gives you any new clues. When I initially start it it hovers at around 2500 rpm for about 30-45 seconds then works it's way down to sounding like this, which is around 1500 rpm (what it should be according to the book). I forgot to record the initial cold start so you won't hear that unfortunately. I figured it couldn't hurt since you guys are experienced with these 4 strokes. I ended up ordering that cheap amazon carb to see if it makes a difference at all. Should be here mid week. 0816192004a.mp4
  2. Yeah, i swapped out all of the o-rings and installed a new needle/seat assembly, pressure tested as well. The old one was shot. You are right that would make sense. I'll see how much free play it has tomorrow, It is hard to see in the pictures but it seems like the needle is resting on one side of the nozzle, as if the needle is a little off center. I don't know if that's normal, but it's the only thing I have been able to find that has made me suspicious. If that doesn't work, I think at this point i am just going to buy this cheap amazon carb and see what happens when i install it. If it solves the issue maybe i can compare it to the OEM one and find out what's going on. Just knowing is worth the 40.00 to me at this point. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FTGCBD4/?coliid=IF4ZSB0FNTMC4&colid=1BQOQJI1T7NLS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  3. Should the nozzle slide freely over the needle like this? Or should it actually create a seal before the taper to stop the flow of all fuel at idle? Also, in that short video clip I posted did it seem like the slide was responding the way it should to you? Thanks again!
  4. I appreciate the advice/link. I found one on Amazon during all this mess for like 40.00. Of course it is a knock off, but it has pretty good reviews. I may end up trying that route. All i know is, I wont be happy if i dump like $100 into OEM parts for this one and it not solve the issue. That's why i was hoping that one of these pictures and my re-inspection would find an obvious problem with my current one. I wouldn't mind spending the money then. I may also consider that used one on ebay that you linked, it may need to be rebuilt as well according to the auction though. It's funny that you mention my carb and what may have been done to it. I had to replace most of the hardware due to whoever was in it before me, and the more i think about that the more it concerns me now. I'm no expert obviously, but i'm not a complete idiot either. I was careful about making sure everything i took apart went back together correctly. I appreciate you fellas trying to help me solve this problem.
  5. I took a few more pics today but some came out crappy, because I didn't realize my flash was going off. So i apologize for that. I can take more tomorrow if need be. There is a short video as well of the slide operating as well. I figured that might be relevant considering i really don't know how one should operate/sound. Thanks again. 0814191634a.mp4
  6. Yes, I have the spring and cap with the o ring that are above the spring on the needle. Does that slide look overly worn to you? I'll get you some more detailed pictures of the jet's ect later today. Thanks for the response fellas.
  7. Yes it is new, along with the o-ring washer and spring. The old one is exactly the same. I have actually been able to put on a glove and turn it as the engine is running (it's a pain in the ass to get to without burning yourself). I have tried both ways and it barely changes anything at all. I have even screwed it all the way in to see if it would kill the engine and it didn't. I have read that can be a symptom of an oversized pilot jet but i have tried both the old one and aftermarket with the same results. They are the exact same size.
  8. So today I decided to dig back into the carb for about the 10th time to see if I would notice any mistakes. It has been on my mind the past couple of days. After we spoke i was afraid that I had screwed up when installing the fuel/air mixture screw and it's components. I decided to take a few pictures so you guys could see if you notice any obvious mistakes. Or parts that need to be replaced (mainly the slide assembly). This is the way the fuel/air screw came out. When i installed it all i did was lightly seat it, then back it off 2 turns. Am i missing something here? Can you guys think of any reason why it wouldn't be having much of an effect when adjusted? I also added a pic of the slide/needle assembled so you could see what I was talking about in regards to it being slightly off center. Or am i just nitpicking that? I didn't see any obvious signs of wear on the needle jet or nozzle. I also inspected the diaphragm by holding it up to the sun, and couldn't find any pinholes or anything like that. I dug back into this thing hoping i would find something obvious where i had screwed up, but now i feel just as confused as before.
  9. I think i am just going to order an OEM needle/nozzle combo along with a new valve throttle (#5) and a new pilot screw set/o-ring/washer . Hopefully that does the trick. You are right, the only rebuilt kits i could find were aftermarket. Yamaha is certainly proud of these parts, but I have already spent enough time screwing around with this thing. I'm ready to be done. I'll let you guys know how things work out. Thank you for leading me down the correct path. I'm going to order an OEM set and make sure it is correct. Thank you for the help!
  10. It's funny that you mention that because now i remember that during all of this troubleshooting, there was one odd thing that I found. When i tried to adjust the fuel/air mixture screw on the bottom of the carb it had basically no effect on how the engine ran either way. From my understanding if it is screwed all the way in the engine shouldn't be able to continue running correct? Because i did try screwing it all the way in to see if it would kill the engine and it wouldn't. Could that be due to the O-Ring you are speaking of being not properly installed? I brought it up on another forum and they told me it was an over sized pilot jet causing it (if i remember correctly), so i swapped it but nothing changed. I haven't really thought about that since, until you mentioned that about the pilot screw. Also, I did replace the needle and nozzle but they are not OEM. I noticed the old one that I removed, and the new one i installed didn't seem to line up perfectly with the main nozzle, it seemed a little off center. Could that be causing it not to seal properly? I'm beginning to second guess myself on everything now lol. Oh one other thing, at idle the exhaust is rather strong smelling. So you are thinking i have both a rich and lean condition happening at the same time from different sources basically? I appreciate the help. You guys have convinced me to revisit the carburetor. I'll be sure to check the battery as well to be safe. I appreciate the response.
  11. TLDR: Could these ignition components being out of spec cause a rough or choppy condition at idle? I know the factory specs are there for a reason, but i just want to make sure i'm not barking up the wrong tree here. My main concern is the Rotor rotation direction sensing coil since it seems to be the furthest out of spec. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F) My Reading: 8.90 kΩ Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F) Reading was within the specified range. Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) Reading was within specified range. Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) My reading was 0.3 Ω
  12. Dimelol


  13. I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well. So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual. Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F) My Reading: 8.90 kΩ Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F) Reading was within the specified range. Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) Reading was within specified range. Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) My reading was 0.3 Ω

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