Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
I just got a 1996 Kawasaki Bayou 220. The wiring is a bit of a mess. My question is I have a white wire and a black/yellow wire that aren’t connected to anything. They’re both located under the seat. The bk/y wire comes from where it splits I think 3 different ways. I’ve checked the diagram and I’m still having no luck. Also are the only wires connected to the ignition switch the brown and the white one? Any help it’s appreciated. Thanks.
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well. So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual. Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F) My Reading: 8.90 kΩ Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F) Reading was within the specified range. Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) Reading was within specified range. Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) My reading was 0.3 Ω
Hi everyone! I have a 1986 yamaha moto4 200 that's been sitting for a while! Cleaned the carb, replaced engine oil, put fresh gas in it. Got it running and went for a ride! It was running great just a little backfire once in a while! I barely made it home on the way back and now the bike won't run at all since then! It will start if I give a little bit of throttle but dies instantly as soon as I let go off the throttle! And even if I try to rev it up it'll sound like its not getting enough gas.. it revs up a couple hundred rpm's and backfires through the carb.. it almost sounds as if I was trying to take off from zero in 5th gear! Nothing is seized though! I dissasembled the head and the piston and cylinder are fine! Rebuilt the carb, replaced the ignition source coil.. I don't know what to do anymore.. compression test shows 90 psi Specs are 128 psi but i'm not sure if I trust my compression tester.. any ideas? Thanks!!
i have a 2005 Polaris magnum 330 4x4 when i would turn the key to start it nothing is getting power so i replaced the switch and still nothing ive checked all the wires they checked out ok but if i run a wire from the battery to the switch everything works dont see and fuses or any relays except the fusible links by that come off the starter solenoid and they test out ok