Lance Workman

Ok so here’s where I’m at. I bypassed the Oiler and went to 40:1 mix. Pulled carb and cleaned because it wouldn’t idle. Runs perfect now, but hangs rpms.... if you rev it slowly revs back down. Normal on these old 2 strokes? I checked to make sure nothing was sticking on the throttle. It drops right jack down. Also what is the air mixture screw setting suppose to be? I’ve seen mixed thoughts from 1 turn to 2 1/2 turns..... would sucking air cause it to hang rpms? Doesn’t do while riding that I notice just when you free rev it.

Is there a reason to block it off? I’m positive it’s dead, I replaced the line from the pump to the carb and see nothing. And that working the pump at idle. Can I just leave it and run 40:1? See how it goes? Get it magically starts working again, I guess I’ll know quick.

The CDI box had no resistance between any to pins. It was totally dead.

Simple question, but just want to verify... I do not think the Oiler is working. While running I can work the pump and doesn’t smoke anymore or do I see oil flowing in the line. Can I just mix gas and call it a day? Leave the pump tank etc?

I got it, pickup coil was fine. Ended up being the CDI box hopefully. Ordered one, so we will see.

I still don’t see numbers for the pulse coil?

Awesome! Thanks Frank!

What manual did you use to find that? The manual I have from here for the Bayou 300 does not have these pages? Also mine is a 2000 so not in the supplements section.

What are your compression numbers? Whats the spark plug look like?

I’ve went through the manual til I’m cross eyed. That is the only thing I can find. I already have the info for the ignition coil. Which is reading high on the primary winding. But I now need to check the pickup. I’m not concerned with the charging portion of the stator just yet. Does the 30-300 mean 300 +-30 across the bk/w and bl wires? That would be the wires coming straight from the pickup inside the stator assembly. Isn’t the ignition coil ignitor same term as the ignition coil pickup?

Ah yea possibly. So if I’m reading this correctly pickup coil should be 30-300? What exactly is it meaning by that? I know it says 1k ohms. I think I’m mis understanding what my reading should be....

That’s what I needed! Thanks! Any idea what the green and red are?

Engine will not run. They are ohm readings in the manual but I’m not understanding where it’s wanting it checked at.

Bayou 300 has an occasional missfire. I can pull the plug and it’ll spark every once and a while. I’ve read the service manual but don’t understand the testing of the excited. Here is the wire I have coming from the stator area. Also primary winding resistance is high. Thanks guys!

Also it a 2000 year model

Yea it looks like someone started and then stopped drilling, almost like they thought it was the idle mixture and then realized it wasn’t. I’m still having the same issue, it’ll crank and idle. I have the idle mixture set but have to crank the idle adjuster all the way down to idle, and has a pop in the air box and sometimes will just die. Ha plenty of power and runs out fine, but I can’t for the life of me figure out why it’s popping and occasionally dieing!!! I check valve clearance and intake is a little on the high side around 0.005-0.006 but I don’t think that would cause it? Will adjust when I find my correct feeler gauges. I just bent a 0.007 and I can cram it in there. So I know it’s larger than tolerance allows. 

I pullled the carb again in fustration, double checked all passages etc. Put it back together and it runs but at idle it has occasional back firing through carb. I set idle screw at 2 1/2 to 3/4 turns. Also have to make out idle knob. Files fine and  revs fine, even has power riding it, just keeps popping in the intake?!?!

I think your seeing that wrong, that is the bowl. The idle air screw is on the left side of the carb

Here’s a picture of the brass plug I’m referring to. I’m pretty sure someone drilled into? 

2005

Well its running, but It only runs with mixture screw set at 3 turns out. Runs with only choke til it’s completely warmed up, then runs fine without the choke. Seems like it takes forever before I can let the choke off. Wondering if the valves need adjusted?

I have it back together now but it’s like a brass plug.

Does any have picture BS29 carb from a Ozark 250 they could send me. I need a pic of inside the bowl, carb side. Looking at the jet. I think something has drilled into that brass plug but wanna verify.

Not sure why it happened, I suppose just stretched chain.

And then got bound and jumped time?

Yea it’s toast, went ahead and ordered new chain and tensioner. Also ordered an oil pump chain, it seemed to have a lot of slack. Figured it wouldn’t be bad idea while I had the clutch pulled off. I do believe the valves are fine!!! I pulled the rocker assembly and put some air to it. I don’t hear any air escaping. So fingers crossed. I couldn’t get my leak down gauges to work.... so couldn’t get real numbers.

Well got home early and went ahead and pulled the clutch cover. Yea it jumped time.... Such an odd time to decide to jump time, right after redoing the upper end. Hoping it didn't get happy and smack a valve, not sure if they are interference or not?

Thanks man! Yea you can get to the timing mark on the flywheel, but I’m gonna have to pull the whole front cover to see the cam and timing chain assembly. I’ll update when I get it pulled.

Thats what I figured? Anyone have experience pulling the clutch cover? PITA or easier way of checking the cam to crank timing?