1911Neil

https://cycleterminal.com/ Fast shipping and I think he sent like 7 connectors in case I messed up a couple. I used one to replace a connection on my neutral safety relay. I hope posting links isn’t against the rules.

@MarkinAR, thanks for the tool rental idea. I hadn't thought of that. I was able to rent (temporarily buy) a slide hammer and a claw type attachment from the neighborhood O'Reilly auto parts store. I started on the right side bearing and it only took a dozen or so medium pops with the slide hammer and the bearing came right out. I removed the seal and replaced the seal and bearing, no problem. (See my 2nd youtube video above starting at 3:30 to see what I'm talking about here) I moved over to the left side and hooked up the slide hammer just like the other side. I gave it increasingly harder hits with the slide hammer and got zero movement so I ended up taking the left side axle tube off. After removing the seal and cleaning it up a bit, I found the problem. There is a big snap ring there. A better pair of snap ring pliers probably would have made removing that a quick job but I managed to get it out with my cheapies and a small screw driver. Putting in the new bearing and seal and putting everything back together was easy enough. One more job crossed off my list. If anyone is looking at a rear wheel bearing job, I highly recommend the slide hammer trick. All you need is the slide hammer with the three point puller attachment, a 3/4" washer (don't want to mess up your hub nut washer), and a pretty nice pair of snap ring pliers, plus the normal tools you'll need to remove seals and seat bearings and seals. I used a socket to seat the seals, the old bearing to hammer on to seat right side bearing and the bottom of a trailer hitch ball for the left side bearing.

I think I'll try the blind puller first. I'll have to borrow one but I know a few people that will probably have something that will work.

Thanks Mark. Think this will do the trick? It's the cheapest one I can find on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Bearing-Drivers-Removal-Bushing/dp/B00WHHAA90/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Seal+and+bearing+driver+kit&qid=1592107599&sr=8-16 Also, do I need gaskets or a sealer for putting the axle tubes back on the diff, or do they just mate up?

I got the front brake shoes and cables done today. It was almost too easy. The shoes fit perfect with no modifications and the cables were simple enough. I did have to make a trip to Ace Hardware for some replacement cir clips and cotter pins. I got the rear brake cables and drum cleaned up. The rear shoes are going to take some work to get them to fit and I ran out of patience working on it tonight. I'll get back on that tomorrow. My big question at the moment is how I'm going to attack the rear bearings. I've seen two different methods. This guy takes the whole rear end apart. Seems like a lot of work for bearings. https://youtu.be/XnYBaxfCBjs This guy uses a puller/slide hammer and makes it look a whole lot easier. He's working on a Bayou 300 though so I don't know if this method would work on my 220. https://youtu.be/vexbLgLNaXc Anyone here done rear bearings on a Bayou 220 and have any tips or tricks? What about the slide hammer deal from the video? Think that will work?

I'm old enough to remember ordering stuff from the back of a magazine or a catalog where it was normal to "allow 4-6 weeks for delivery." Screw that, waiting a week or two for my last parts orders was killing me. But the rest of my parts trickled in this week. I had to spend a little time the last two evenings doing a tune up and valve cover repair on my lawn tractor, but tonight I was able to get back to the Bayou. I got the newly painted exhaust put back on. I sure could have used another set of hands wrasslin' that back on but I managed to get it. Looks much better than the rusty pipe it was when I took it off. I got the new kingpins installed too. That was a fairly easy job but I did manage to bash a knuckle with the hammer driving the old bushings out. The old set hadn't seen fresh grease in a long time and were pretty gritty. There wasn't as much slop in them as I thought, but a little bit is really magnified by the time you get to the outside of the tire. The front end is nice and tight now. Kingpins were the single most expensive part I've bought so far and worth every penny. Tomorrow I plan to work on the front brakes. I have new shoes and cables. I've already had the hubs off so that won't be a problem but the right cam is pretty stiff. It was pretty much locked up when I got it but some oil and a little work I got it moving. I'll spend more time on it tomorrow to get both sides moving right. Depending on how that goes, I may start on the rear bearings and brake.

Not a lot to update at the moment. I got the studs for the exhaust clamp straightened out. I pulled the exhaust, cleaned it up and painted it with stove black. Looks a lot better than I thought it would. I have all the carrier racks sanded down and ready for paint. Mostly just piddling with aesthetics while I wait for parts. I have ordered rear seals and bearings, brake shoes all around, a front brake cables set, exhaust pipe gasket and kingpins. While I'm waiting, what's a good way to clean the bearing grease out of my rear drum? I've hit it with brake cleaner but it didn't put much of a dent in it. Soak it in gasoline? Engine degreaser? I have until at least next weekend to let something work on it before I get into the rear bearings and brake job so I'm open to ideas.

I got the new exhaust studs and nuts today. I should have my new lefty drills/extractors tomorrow. The intact stud came out really easy even being bent quite a bit. Glad I bought a set. I hope the broken stud comes out as easy. I changed the oil and filter. The oil was very dirty. I changed the rear diff lube again. It was still pretty dirty . I'll keep changing it pretty regularly until it starts to stay clean. I also put slime in the front tires and pulled a nail out of one of the rear tires and plugged it. All are still holding air after a few days. I pulled the rear wheels again. I originally thought I could live without replacing the bearings but I'm going to have to add that to the list. Both sides are pretty sloppy and the seal on the right side is shot, which trashed the brake shoe. Guess I'll go ahead and replace the brake shoes all around. They're cheap enough. Hopefully I can salvage the brake cables. After all that, I'll start on the front end. The kingpins are shot and the alignment is off. This free 4 wheeler is getting kinda spendy.

Thanks. I got lucky with my motor. With everything else going on with mine, I probably would have scrapped it if I had engine trouble too @MarkinAR 's advice on lapping the valves sounds like a good plan. I hope it works out. I'm assuming this is in reference to your 2000 220 Bayou cam, valves, timing thread. I'll be watching that thread for updates.

Well I just found my next hurdle. I noticed when I first got it that the exhaust pipe holder was loose and missing a stud. I just confirmed it's not missing, it's broken off. I was planning from the beginning to remove the whole pipe, clean it up and paint it, but now I have to deal with the broken stud. I have a new set or order and should have them in a couple days. I'm going to try removing the broken stud with an EZ out, but I'm sure I'll end up having to drill it. After the oil change today, I'm going to start soaking it down with penetrating oil and hope for the best when the new studs show up.

Good thing about the starter button, once it hits, it fires right up. Bout half a crank it all it takes. Worse case, I have the rope.

I played around on it again this morning. I disconnected/reconnected a bunch of bullet connectors and got my neutral light back. Starter button still didn't work but I was able to get it to crank by jumping the solenoid terminals. I quadruple checked the starter button for continuity and it still tested good. I put the new solenoid back in then went to put the left control housing back on the bars. While doing this, I accidentally bumped the starter button and not only did it turn over, the damn thing started. Kinda freaked me out for a second so I shut it down real quick. I put a few things back together and was able to start it up and shut it down every time. The starter button is kinda tricky, though. Sometimes it hits right off, sometimes I have to move it around a bit. Not sure what do do with that, if anything at this point. Tomorrow I'm going to start it and let it warm up a bit, then change the oil and filter. Probably take it for a test ride. I had dirt bikes as a kid and rode a Harley for about 10 years, but I've never ridden a 4 wheeler.

I already had a new relay and a new starter solenoid installed. A couple of the reviews on the solenoid on Amazon said they had faulty units out of the box so I put the original one back in. I must have accidentally shorted it when tightening the bolts, because the started kicked over. Cool! I hit the starter button for a second and it cranked again. Real cool! I pulled the spark plug to check for spark and when I went to hit the starter again, I noticed my neutral light was out. I thought maybe I turned off the ignition switch? Nope, it was still on. Then I realized the neutral light was on, just very, very dim. Crap! I rattled some wires around and got the neutral to get bright for a second but couldn't locate where there might be a short. I checked and got continuity in a few places but was limited on time to play with it. I had to cut grass before it got dark. I did test for spark with the pull cord and got a really good spark, so that's good. So not a whole lot of progress, but in the 30 minutes I had to work on it, I verified I have a good neutral safety switch, I have spark, the starter, starter button, and starter solenoid are all good. As I expected, I'm going to have to spend more time with the multi meter to find any shorts. Over all, I feel better about this project knowing I've eliminated at least a few potential problems. I think I stand a reasonable chance of getting it running this weekend.

I installed the new neutral safety relay and starter solenoid and put the battery back in tonight. I turn on the ignition and get a bright green neutral light on the dash. I hit the starter button and get nothing. I took the left switch housing apart and the starter button and kill switch both tested good with my multi meter. I haven't tested jumping the 2 terminals on the starter solenoid yet. I also still don't know for sure yet if I even have spark. I have a helper coming by tomorrow after work to check that. Kinda hard to pull the rope on the left and check the plug on the right at the same time. Any obvious things I should check next? I expect to be spending lots of quality time with my multi meter over the next couple days.