Kuba

Like many things on this machine , pull starter is not working , recoil spring is missing , didn’t saw this when buying. Today afternoon I will get grounds wire’s check.

I didn’t mention before , I did valves gap correct , compression is 180 psi , with little engine oil in cylinder 190psi , I did try starting spray also , nothing at all , no backfiring, no try to start . will keep digging in .

Good morning, I’m happy to say starter circuit is working , thanks for all yours help guys, giving me directions and explaining thing . Atv cranking good , but not engine is not starting , now time for ignition check . What I did until now is , checked two used spark plug outside when cranking , looks weak , tested ignition coil primary and secondary resistance, both in speck , same with spark plug cap -9.8kohm. pickup coil is little lower than book say , but maybe because is colder - 450 ohm. Rotation sensing coil shows me 0.2 ohm, but maybe my meter is not sensitive enough. I also checked shear key aka woodruff key and is in one piece . Checked timing chain marks , when TDC is set upper sprocket is little bit off , but maybe 1/2 teeth , assuming chain is stretched . All wires to CDI looks good . Will try new spark plug today . Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. Thanks again.

Omg, I’m sorry for this question. Never thought that is a wire connector, suspected something more sophisticated. Thanks , will work tomorrow on this .

Ok , I got one graphic symbol on drawing and didn’t know what that is and . I looked online for solutions but nothing looks same . Diodes are different . Any ideas what that is ? Thanks .

Mech , I checked first drawing what you posted Big bear-Kodiak and this looks like mine , most cables colors matching with mine harness.I need to print this out, looking in smartphone screen is not convenient. I’m not to strong in electrical , but learning and going through. I need to learn more how to read drawings and symbols on them . Thanks for all help and yours time , will post later what I find out, and for sure for more help .

I downloaded and using same drawing like Mech posted , but I’m not sure is correct one for my atv . My vin get me to 2001 yfm400 FAS . I got 12 V on red coming out of kill switch when On, 0V when Off, assuming is like suppose to be. And from then I lost for now . Previous owner used wire nuts to connect cables and at this point B/W was connected to red . Gwbarm - can you post electrical drawings from your bike - maybe that will help me to find correct connections. At the back of a harness , close to CDI I got two plugs , one red(violet), second white . Both connected to I believe relays with same colors , red to red , white to white . What’s is that ? White clicking on when key is turned on . Thanks .

Hi , i have electrical circuits diagram and started following cables . Up to “engine stop switch” #29 on drawing everything is ok . From #29 R/B (red/black) should come out . Mine is only red and was cut or damaged and somebody connect him with black/white strip . I can’t find anywhere free red which could be the broken one from #29. From drawing I know red should go straight to CDI box . Can somebody help me with this.

Thanks , first electrical wiring, done cables are broken /chewed, start engine and will see from there .

Hi , I just bought this machine , need some work and I’m looked for repair and manual . All what I found is for different trim model .I decoded VIN and show me is a FAS trim , all repairs are for FAR or FAM . It’s any difference between them with parts or repairs? Thanks for any help .

Mech - now I will a headache 🤣🤣🤣. This China’s carb has only two jets sizes #140 and #180. Looking at them I can see holes size difference. I choose smaller cause I did checked how big is in original carburetor and looks like is #135 . For now I can only testing engine without driving, but once I get it ready will do a spark plug color testing . Need to check if a needle jet is adjustable.

I’m from Poland , but living in Streamwood, Illinois.

Carburetor installation update Im sorry for all language mistakes , English is not my primary language 😁. I opened new chaineese carb before installation and noticed main jet size is #180 stamped on body . Package included small ziplock with screws for throttle cable cover , throttle cable mount and also jet#140 and I did swap them . Cleaned all passages with carb cleaner and compressed air , don’t check how many turns was mixture screw in or out , but before engine starting I also replaced fuel tank valve . I go with aftermarket one from Yamaha , Off-On-Res positions. After that I closed vacuum port on carburetor, one which go to original fuel valve . Need to drill out thread inside throttle cable mount , but that was not a problem . Attached enricher cable (all necessary components was inside carb ). Enricher open , butterfly throttle close completely , and started cranking- nothing . Moved throttle adjustment a little bit , just to crack open and trying again . Started nice in a second , keeps high rpms , I let it warm up and turned enricher off , rpms slowdown and starting mixture adjustment to get a nice throttle response. I’m not sure how many turns I did , but finally i got nice and fast response, no backfire, will see how will work after I finish primary clutch rebuild ( parts awaiting). Thanks you guys for all your explanation about carb adjustment and how is it work. This make my job easier . For testing purpose I did keep ATV outside for two days 28-30 Fahrenheit temperature and trying start again. Enricher on , first crank and running smooth and nice . For now I’m happy. Hope going to stay like that . More updates after primary clutch fix and test runs.

Carb ordered , can’t wait to installing and see what will happening. Mech- very detailed explanation, that’s will help me for sure during new carb set up.

I hope it will be 😁😁. If not I’m going to look for rebuild kit with it . If it’s not a problem what rebuild kit did you used?