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2001 Yamaha Kodiak yfm400 FAS.


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Hi , 

I just bought this machine , need some work and I’m looked for repair and manual . All what I found is for different trim model .I decoded VIN and show me is a FAS trim , all repairs are for FAR or FAM . 
It’s any difference between them with parts or repairs? 
Thanks for any help . 

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Hi , i have electrical circuits diagram and started following cables . Up to “engine stop switch” #29 on drawing everything is ok . From #29 R/B (red/black) should come out . Mine is only red and was cut or damaged and somebody connect him with black/white strip . I can’t find anywhere free red which could be the broken one from #29. From drawing I know red should go straight to CDI box . 
Can somebody help me with this. 

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I am working on 2000 big bear wiring and my start stop switch has black/white and black, I only mentioned that because you said your red was hooked to black/white I ran into problems with aftermarket switches put on and the color codes didn't match the harness, yours may be different I see you have r/b and r/w going from switch on your diagram I don't show that in my manual and I think it also covers the Kodiak I just assumed they were wired the same.

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You have voltage and when you turn it to off it goes to ground contacting the black wire, I think your CDI is different from mine, not sure of that, but I do have a B/W and B going into CDI from stop switch , I haven't got mine to spark yet and everything else is working, im suspecting my CDI is bad, but I have been chasing electrical problems for a while. I was just reading your other post do you know what the trim letters mean, I did a vin search on mine and it came back YFM400F/YFM400FH. I have a post 2000 Big Bear it was in bad shape and im documenting everything I find as i go along. So far it been interesting.

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Big Bear must be different because I have B/W and B at the start/ stop switch, just checked the Diagram I also have red from stator to CDI and from start/stop switch I have B/W going to CDI and black going to ground(earth). I have R/W and Bl in my aftermarket starter button, that connects to L/B and B in the original wiring harness . 

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I've got three different versions, and they all claim to cover that year kodiak, and two of them say they also do big bears for the same years..  Different markets though, even if they are the same model, can have different components.. local product.. There are several different main switches, and several different kill switches, and I think some switches can be used in different wiring configurations.

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I downloaded and using same drawing like Mech posted , but I’m not sure is correct one for my atv . My vin get me to 2001 yfm400 FAS . 

I got 12 V on red coming out of kill switch when On, 0V when Off, assuming is like suppose to be. And from then I lost for now . Previous owner used wire nuts to connect cables and at this point B/W was connected to red . 
Gwbarm - can you post electrical drawings from your bike - maybe that will help me to find correct connections. 
At the back of a harness , close to CDI I got two plugs , one red(violet), second white . Both connected to I believe relays with same colors , red to red , white to white . 
What’s is that ? 
White clicking on when key is turned on . 
Thanks . 

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I think Kuba that you need to check the bikes wiring to see what sort of kill switch system it's meant to have, earthing or switching power off, Those seem to be the two common systems. Then you need to check withing that main divide what sort of main switch system it uses, and then get the right switch for there..    I think that will get you to the problem..

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Mech , 

I checked first drawing what you posted 

Big bear-Kodiak and this looks like mine , most cables colors matching with mine harness.I need to print this out, looking in smartphone screen is not convenient. I’m not to strong in electrical , but learning and going through. 
I need to learn more how to read drawings and symbols on them . 
Thanks for all help and yours time , will post later what I find out, and for sure for more help . 

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Ok..  Wires are described by their main colour and then the stripe, so white wire with a red stripe is W/R, lines that cross with a small dot on the intersection are connected, intersections without a dot are not joined, things that have a dotted box around then are all one unit or part, we can tell if they have a wire tail or if the wiring plug goes straight into the unit by the relationship between the dotted line and the joins/plugs.

I'd suggest printing the whole wiring diagram and then using coloured pencils to colour wires in as you trace and confirm them..

I suspect that your bike might have the wrong switch somewhere, either the kill or the main, or possibly both. I'd look at the plugs on the ends of the wiring loom and check the shape and wire colors and ignore the switches for a while.. Figure which wiring loom you have, and then diagnosing the wrong switch or short or whatever should be much easier.

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Good morning, 

I’m happy to say starter circuit is working , thanks for all yours help guys, giving me directions and explaining thing . 
Atv cranking good , but not engine is not starting , now time for ignition check . What I did until now is , checked two used spark plug outside when cranking , looks weak , tested ignition coil primary and secondary resistance, both in speck , same with spark plug cap -9.8kohm. 
pickup coil is little lower than book say , but maybe because is colder - 450 ohm.

Rotation sensing coil shows me 0.2 ohm, but maybe my meter is not sensitive enough. 
I also checked shear key aka woodruff key and is in one piece . Checked timing chain marks , when TDC is set upper sprocket is little bit off , but maybe 1/2 teeth , assuming chain is stretched . 
All wires to CDI looks good .

Will try new spark plug today . 
Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. 
Thanks again. 

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Maybe do a compression check and make sure all is good. 

Does it spit or backfire at all? Maybe try starting fluid see if it will at least backfire. 

I had picked up a Kawasaki a few years ago and trying to get it running I was convinced the spark was not near strong enough. It was, that wasn't my problem. So don't blame a weak spark yet. Visually observing the spark can be misleading. 

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I didn’t mention before , I did valves gap correct , compression is 180 psi ,  with little engine oil in cylinder 190psi , I did try starting spray also , nothing at all , no backfiring, no try to start . 
will keep digging in . 

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As Tiha says, if it has spark it is probably a sign all the individual ignition components are working ok. You could check the HT lead for resistance if that is removable, and, depending on the HT cap, it could be shorting the spark through the rubber cap if it has one. A blue spark is good, even a thin one, but a yellow spark is not, not even if it's a big fat yellow spark.

It's strange the starting spray didn't even get a kick..  Hopefully a new spark-plug will get it going. The oil in the cylinder from the compression test might have fouled the plug. Old fuel can foul plugs too.. 

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