Tiha

Yep tongue weight should be around the same 10%. Tandem axles have a few advantages, like a lower deck height because you are using 2 smaller tires instead of one big one. But then you have 2 more tires to maintain. Deck over is the best use of space if you are going to side load. I love single axles, lite, easy to tow. Easy to move around. Just didn't work for me. I ran out of storage so enclosed when the best solution for me. Everyone's situation is different. Problem with any trailer, not just single axles is being over built, or buying too much trailer. The closer you can load a trailer to it's gvwr the better it will ride. Single axles will ride rougher in general, especially when empty, it doesn't have that second axle holding the first one down.

I use T4 in everything now. 15w-40 usually. Started using because of the wet clutch system. Like the heavier weights for air cooled engines. Normally I don't spend the money on synthetics because I usually don't have cold starts and I change it way more often than needed. Running it in kawasaki, suzuki, yamaha, john deere, new holland, and whatever the stupid push mower is lol.

Personally I would get something with a manual trans like a kawasaki bayou for pulling at low speeds. Anything with a CVT trans, that is going to be hard on belts at those speeds.

Late to the party like always. So if your SxS is 10ft a 12 trailer will still not be enough for you to side load the atv. I started out with a 4x8 trailer for ATV, hated it. Could not see the trailer behind the vehicle. Bought a snowmobile trailer at auction for $100, Put new deck on it. Got another machine and started side loading it. But it was tight if either had larger tires. I have since moved on to a Thule enclosed trailer. Love it so much better. Tall enough to ride into, or for side x side. If we take the side by side we take one atv in the pickup bed. Otherwise it has room for 4 atvs. It is 8.5ft x 14ft. Aluminum. Very light, nice pulling trailer. You can move it around on the concrete by hand. It is aluminum, all of it. It is 20 years old and no signs of cracks or rot in it anywhere. Best part is, when we get home, atvs are already stored. LOL I prefer a lot of tongue weight, less chance of the trailer pushing the tow vehicle around. When you look at gvwr on a trailer you need to remember at least 10% should be tongue weight. So a trailer with 3500 gvwr, weighs 1500 pounds. Leaves 2000 pounds payload correct? actually not. 10% tongue weight would make payload 2350.

Sometimes the chinese carbs are our only options unfortunately. I have had mixed luck. On a kodiak the previous owner put one on and then sold the machine because it ran so bad. I tried everything I could think of to get it to run right and never did. Found a used OEM and problem solved. Swapping jets and setting the float is minimum. Seems like they never cold start or choke right either. have gotten carbs where air passages were never drilled. Total fail. Seems like on lawnmowers they work much better. Not perfect but same scenario, OEM is just not available new or used so you have to make something work. I was fighting random problems with a 300 bayou. Bought a chinese carb just as a process of elimination. Ran pretty decent. So I swapped jets and been running it ever since.

Need to follow the voltage. You said you checked resistance but didn't mention voltage. Have to get a wiring diagram and follow voltage from the battery all the way to the CDI then back to the coil. As well as the pickup coil voltage.

I know some guys that run SxS and larger off road trucks, but the ATV areas I have no idea. I am in iowa, not sure if it is worth the trip for me or not.

Maybe do a compression check and make sure all is good. Does it spit or backfire at all? Maybe try starting fluid see if it will at least backfire. I had picked up a Kawasaki a few years ago and trying to get it running I was convinced the spark was not near strong enough. It was, that wasn't my problem. So don't blame a weak spark yet. Visually observing the spark can be misleading.

I think I looked up that exact same thing and found the crankshaft ends were different, so in theory they will not interchange. I think I was going to put my 2001 400 into a blown 2004 450. But I did not look up the clutch parts individually.

Kawasaki adjusts the same way. Be interesting to see how it goes for you. First time I did it after I bought the machine (used) it shifted really stiff. As much as I have tried over the years it has never been as easy shifting as it was before I first adjusted it. And I have adjusted it frequently over the last 20 years I have owned it.

Very cool, Always wanted one. There is a mower deck that is supposed to go with it. That is what the PTO is for. Would have been perfect for the property I had at the time. Hope you get it going. Looking back I always kind of figured the mower deck would be underpowered but who knows. Mowing around ponds, side hills that was a great solution.

You said jumping the solenoid it will try to turn over but doesn't. Can you put jumper cables right on the starter and see if it turns over? If it does then you have a battery, wiring, or cable issue. If not, then you have a starter or internal damage issue.

My first ATV was a Bayou 300 with a manual trans. It has been a work horse for over 20 years now. Pushing snow, pulling trailers and joy riding. Great machine. Couple years back I bought a suzuki twin peaks, which is the same as a Kawisaki Prairie. It is auto (cvt) trans. It also has the down hill braking. Gotta say, sure is nice riding and not shifting all the time. But I only joy ride with it. Since I have added a couple Kodiak 400s. Both machines are auto CVT. Very simple, light machines. Too light in some cases. But great for joy riding. Growing up with CVT on snowmobiles I am probably hyper sensitive. They have come a long way and seem to be holding up well, but when we are out riding I am constantly riding and thinking, What was that smell? Was that burnt belt? I put the high dollar belts on when I buy the machine and have not had to replace one since yet. If me and the kids go riding we are always waiting on the person with the Manual trans (usually me) not for lack of power or top speed, Just the added time it takes shifting up and down instead of just mashing the throttle. We don't normally do mud or deep water. So the belt always stays dry. And don't buy cheap belts. Over and Over I read of people burning up cheap belts in 100 miles or less. Last time we were riding there was some SxS guys at the park. We followed them through the obstacle course. First guy tries an obstacle and you could hear the engine screaming and SxS not moving. Started seeing smoke. He fried his belt, that was it, he was done for the day. Made it 100 yards from the trailer. LOL short day.

And that may very well be the case, On more than one occasion I have came across a guy with a new CDI that says it works on the 2000-2002 models but does not. They all have created a no crank situation. In each case the purchased CDI said it covered multiple models instead of being model specific. Thought it might be applicable in this case as well. It seems like those years are the hardest to find the correct ones. I keep thinking with some time and ingenuity a different model CDI could be adapted, but luckily I have always been able to scrounge the correct one up somewhere, so far.

So just thinking outside the box. Does the CDI look new? I have read over and over about generic CDI boxes off ebay and amazon that will not allow the starter to crank.