kiriyaaoi

It took a lot of work and rejetting but I've managed to get the Motoku clone carb running pretty damn good on my Quadrunner 250. Part of the idle problem I was fighting ended up being a fuel pump issue, there was no fuel in the vacuum line but I think there was a pinhole leak in the diaphram. After replacing it I no longer have issues with it stalling every time at idle when warm.

This is my experience as well. They come with incorrect jets and an improperly adjusted float level for the named application. They seem to do fine once you manage to get them dialed in properly and install proper Mikuni jets.

Niche seems to be one of the better cheap parts manufacturers. I've had quite a bit of experience with their parts on Jetskis, mostly with a 1995 Yamaha Wave Venture 700. I tried a DB Electrical starter, it lasted about a month before it died- the front, heavily loaded bearing was not greased at all, and it just shredded itself and caused the rotor to contact one of the magnets and grenade. I picked up a Niche one (which was actually half the price of the DB Electrical) and was pleasantly surprised to find it was better built, and had a proper roller needle bearing at the front end instead of a cheap bushing. I've also had good luck with their starter relays, and ignition coils. I just put a set of tie rod ends on my new to me Quadrunner 250. They seem very high quality. Definitely one of the few "cheap replacement parts" companies that seems to actually care about quality.

I think you made a god decision on the outback, though personally I'd have looked at the Tiguan/Atlas, those have real 8 speed Aisin transmissions still, though Subaru has made big strides with their newer chain-based CVTs. Just remember to change the fluid regularly. Most CVT failures are because people never change the fluid, and they do NOT tolerate poor maintenance, at all.

To be honest I don't understand the trouble people have with auto start stop. Maybe the VW and Stellantis versions are just better, but the start stop on a previous Jetta and my current Taos is excellent. It starts fast and smooth, and is quick to restart with just a hint of steering input, or just slightly raising pressure on the brake pedal without fully removing it. The fam's 22 Grand Cherokee L V6 is similar, I have no complaints with either. The only ESS I remember not liking was a rental Ford Escape from like 2016, it would shut off power steering when stopped. If that is the case, then I can see how people get annoyed. But in general once you figure out how your specific ESS system works it's a breeze and you don't even have to think about it. I do personally disable lane keep assist though in 99% of cases, don't like it.

Ended up getting the cylinder bored and honed by G&H Discount ATV on ebay, $200 and included a new Namura piston and rings, a Hi-Caliber top end gasket set. Picked up a used cam and head on ebay, they were both in pretty good shape to start, I cleaned up the journals and the cam, with some 1500 and 3000 grit with WD40, they came out beautifully. Had the fight with one of the rockers, the PO broke off one of the valve cover bolts that holds the rocker shaft in place... Had to drill it out and absolutely wreck the shaft and even further wreck the valve cover, but at least I was able to save the follower/rocker itself, those aren't cheap. Cleaned up the contact patch on those with the same 3000 grit and they polished up nicely. Other than fighting ongoing chinese carb issues it runs great and has excellent compression now as you'd expect.

You always will want to double check the jet sizing and float level on these. I picked up a Motoku for my 02 Quadrunner 250 (with the BS29SS) and everything was wrong. Had to replace the pilot jet with a #15 (had a #40 in), main with a 67.5 (original was unlabelled), and adjust the float level (came at 12.5mm, these spec 17.1). I'm fairly convinced they just are configured at the factory to run pig rich for some reason.

I've recently (in the past few days) been through the wringer with these Chinese clone carbs. I ordered a Motoku that is suppose to be a direct replacement for my QR250 (same basic engine as the Arctic Cat) and it came all sorts of wrong. Came with a #40 pilot jet (factory spec is #15), an unlabelled main, and a just barely oversize needle jet (120). I replcaed the pilot and main with genuine mikuni jets, they are cheap after all. I then fought with the pilot screw. I also have one of the fancy 90* screwdrivers but for some reason it flat out does not work, it just gets caught in the housing. And I have one of the expensive motion pro ones. After fighting continuous flooding and rich running I pulled the bowl back off and found that the float level was set way, way too high. It was at 12.5mm, factory spec is 17.1mm. Fixed that and it runs a whole lot better now. These CV carbs are a right pain in the butt, they are so sensitive. I'm still not convinced the needle itself is on the right slot, but still workng on it...

I've seen this in a few videos, if the regulator has failed and is outputting crazy high voltages, like 18v- it will cause the ignition system to not work properly. Running with the lights on puts just enough of a load on it to pull the voltage down to a level that the CDI doesn't freak out.

Thanks, I decided to just order some from ebay after asking the seller (it's a large ebay seller) if it should fit. If it doesn't, well I tried. Actually the bore isn't quite as good as I thought, there's a bit of light damage- maybe corrosion, hard to say, not normal scoring at least- at the bottom of the bore (where moisture would be sitting when not running). I was thinking about seeing if it would clean up with a hone- do we know if these bores are nikasil plated or straight cast iron?

Here's some pictures, they look pretty chewed up. I know that it might be possible to grind down the "bearings" and insert real automotive bearings but I'm not sure if that would be worth the cost versus a replacement. The cam also looks pretty rough and I'm not sure if that's salvageable at all.

Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves. From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next. 1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match. I have no idea what this would cost. 2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover. #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option. However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number, 11100-19B10, instead of 11100-19B01 like for all earlier models. What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years. Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical. Would those work as well possibly? I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on. Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.