Finnforest

I had a similar problem on my 350, but if it runs on choke the pump must be working, since the fueltank is lower than the carb. Maybe you have a clogged carburettor? When I crank the 350 for a split second the pump starts and build preassure then it stops. I do this everytime i start it to "prime" the fuel lines so i dont have to crank it so long. Inside the fuelpump is a preassure switch to that cuts the power to the pump when there is enought preassure in the line, The fuel relay somehow works with the rpm of the machine. I hate this setup, almost thought of putting a gastank from a 300 trx on it 😃

I changed the brake shoes on mine with the axle on. Removed the two nuts (maybe they where left threads) and pulled the drum. I just let the drum be on the shaft, or you can remove the rear wheel hub and take it all off.

You want to take the rear wheel hubs off anyway and clean and lubricate with copperpaste or something similar, the splines have ha habit of corroding due to loose fit. Worst case scenario you can always weld em to the shaft =)

Edit. Sorry it was on my 250LT 1987 i change the brakes. Dunno how to delete the post =)

just want to say the the rear axle have the brakes inside them , that why the call for the mobile oil, i have a tracor with wet brakes that uses the same mobile oil

Common issue, replaced the speed sensor on my dads kingquad twice, he extended the skidplate now for better protection.

Had the same issue on a suzuki , reverse light worked but not the neutral, took the "sender" apart and it was filled with oil, so the contacts where burnt.

My advice is to remove it, measure it on the bench first, maybe try and clean it inside with some brakecleaner. Make sure it isnt binding in anyway.

When i unsize wired i clean them as good as i can, try and blow with compressed air  then hang then vertical and a couple of times a day i put  drops of ATF oil on the wire, usually take a week or two, finally you should see oil at the wire at the bottom. if you can get it to move even the slightest its just a matter of oil and pull it back and forth. But its importent you hnad it up so lube can get to all the wiring not just the ends or it will size up after a short time.

or maybe its welded in place like my 300 Oo

I have a 1991 300trx and a 1992 trx and the wiring is not the same, the speedometer is not located at the same place (moved about 10cm and the 1992 have a cooling fan) other than that i havent noticed any difference, the cdi is in the same place, starter, alternator, charge regulator, handlebars is the same etc. If you call honda i dont think they can tell you if it works , they only see part numbers. My approach would be to try and start it and fix the wiring issues along the way.

Hello again, working slowly on the cdi, got alot of other things to do, like 4 kids 😃 , i used my function generator to simulare the pickup coil and the signal reaches the thyristor just fine, so i belive the fault

is the thysistor itself or perhaps the large cap that discharges to the coil, i have ordered a desolder gun so i can delsoder and measure off circuit.

The pickup coil was given out 1,5V and the airgap is very tight.

No shorts, pulled the CDI apart now, almost got all silicone off. I post some pics later 😃 , alteast no diodes where burnt inside, no shorts in the capacitators either. I have to pull the microscope

so see at the markings to id some of the circuits.

Im getting 24,7V AC into the cdi, its 8V from the output to the ignition coil. No green crust anywhere, took every connection apart.

Had some time to take some more measurments, the source coil is putting out AC 24,7 Volt when i run it on the starter. Hooked up an oscilloscope to the pickup coil and it vas about 1,2Vols up n down. So they "seem" to work atleast there is some life in them. Measured the output from the CDI to the coil and dint get any DC reading but 8V AC. I think the cdi should output DC and waay more than 8V. Turned off the light in the garage and there was actually a tiny tiny spark. My money is on the CDI atm. Please prove me wrong 😃

Sorry for double post but i dont know how to edit my previous post, if you follow my link No12 and No13 are gaskets under the nuts, may its from there the oil is leaking? Or the plug No17.

Doesnt seem to be a gasked there, but a little bit of the liquid gasked  Permatex the rightstuff, its expensive but works good, gasolin resistent aswell 😃

Here is another site in EU, i have bought a lot of stuff from this site.

https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-lt-f300f-king-quad-2wd-2001-k1-usa-e03-kingquad-king-quad_model34571/partslist/BLCK0015.html#.YO7FCUyey70

i broke my cdi on my honda last year and got one from ricks electronics , and i know they listed atleast two types of cdis so i had to remove it first and double check.

You can get a Noctua IndustrialPPC NF-A14, takes 0,55A 12V , its a computerfan with 6 year warranty. But it takes some work to protect it if you are riding alot of offroading. I have a honda 300 trx and its getting very hot when im driving slow in the terrain, just hooked a fan up in zipties to try it out and is "seems" to work. Dont have any tempgauges on it so i really dont know how much difference it makes.

i took it off after a while because i dont do offroading so much in 1st gear.

Hello everyone, my name is Henrik and i live in Sweden. Riding atvs for 10+ years. My family and I usually makes ATV trips every weekend at our summer cabin to go swimming / looking for animals / berry picking or just joy riding. We ride old machines with kickstart / pullstarts so a dead battery wont leave us stranded in the woods 😃

Honda 300 TRX, Suzuki 250F, Suzuki LT80 and Yamaha Champ 100

Not really what you asked but i removed the separate oil mix all together, got rid of the pump, hoses and the oil container and premix the gas for it. Feels alot safer for the engine. The little metal piece

that runs the pump looks very weak. I used the space i got where the oil container was and made a big battery box so i have a 18Ah battery in it now.

Hello everyone, this is one of my first posts here 😃 , im having some trouble with the kids bike, no spark. What i measured so far at the CDI is:

Shutoff wire works ok

It has ground

It has connection to the ignition coil.

Pickup coil measures 325 ohm

Source coil measures 393 ohm

The ignition coil seems fine when i measure it. new sparkplug too. Flywheel spins and the key is in place.

Havent found a service manual for the champ so checked the pickup coil and the source coil values in a yamaha badger manual.

Is the cdi a common problem on these old machines? And where can i get a new cdi? Used ones i can get from ebay, but i have kids in different ages so i got like 10+ more years of use for it 😃

Hello, sorry to ask you this but did you check the fuse (5A) for the charging system? Always start with the little things 😃

Seems you have the same tire size front and back, on my Honda (300 trx) i have different sizes front and back, have you changed the gear ratio somehow? I want big fat tires on mine aswell but i think rip the 4wd apart if the ratio is not correct.

Hello, i had a similar issue with my 300 TRX , no spark (1991) , thought it would be the CDI but it was the connections to the CDI that had some green crust on it. Cleaned it and runs like champ now.