rgeiser

just kept packing with grease and thread taping the puller after about five more attempts it finally popped with enough force to take someones head off lol. i did not use heat just did the insanity thing and kept trying over and over again. thanks for advice!!

also took everything fron a 1lb hammer to a 10lb sledge wouldnt pop till it wanted to.

So a costumer braught in a 2018 general and the damned clutch wont come off.......       I had one of the old style polaris pullers so i packed the shaft with grease and ran the bolt in. bolt got tight smacked it with my purse. didn't budge.   so I had the correct puller ordered and got it in today "Super atv"  greased the bolt shoved it in tightened by hand and what do you know puller bent when hit with impact now its useless so yep thats where im at.   gonna order another puller but i dont see a factory tool.    thaughts?

IS it ok to heat the primary on a polaris?
 

just a update cheapo pump worked for me

still took some playing with carb but now runs  

thanks for the help

has anyone found a replacement bulb for a 98 Polaris sportsman 500. the bulb that's in it has the number 81169 on back Polaris parts diagram doesn't show just a bulb. when i put that number in amazon bulb is $40.  any suggestions

do you have voltage on r/w? do you have voltage after switch? i know some one messed with wiring so then go to cdi box and check to see if power is coming in at the connector. also would help if you posted whole diagram for us to look at to help you.

got the engine to idle. seems to be running rich but is running. at first wouldn't take throttle. i had forgot rzr 170 limits engine speed to almost idle if p-brake is on. so hooked air solenoid back up ran fine. hooked up fuel pump and wouldn't run.  p.s. I've been running it on a bottle to rule out fuel delivery issues.  fuel line from fuel pump not hooked to motor. got out my vacuum pump and tried applying vacuum and fuel came out of the vacuum port on fuel pump and hold zero vacuum funny thing is it still wants to pump fuel. has anyone seen this before? going to order cheap fuel pump for diag. purposes.

black wire to batt neg 0.5ohms   body of reg rec to batt neg 0.3ohms

talked to owner and he told me he already replaced reg rec and it didn't change anything.  

all 6 diodes seem to be working. less than 0.5vac when hooked to output "red charging wire."  guess I'm gonna let the costumer decide what to do.  really dont want to pull the motor just to look at sator that seems to be working ok

so the ohms between each leg are less than 1. no shorts to ground. each leg is putting out 7vac at idle just above idle 15vac half throttle 25vac 50vac at high revs. sorry cant give exact rpms costumer removed speedo. but only getting 12vdc from reg rec at high rpm. seeing as the motor has to be removed to check stator do yall think its a reg rec?

also manual says 10 to 12vac on each leg at idle.

in IL you can get city permits that allow you to ride on the road just no highway. and next year they are going to offer county wide permits. mainly because everyone is riding the back roads anyway.

I love street bikes. now you say what? I started working at the kawi dealer ship. found myself working on more off road than anything else. after working there 6years decided to open my own shop. and once again working on more off road. living outside of town it's so much fun to drive other people's stuff around. now the sport bike just sits there looking pretty.

I got one in my shop right now that has rhino lined grill on it. I've seen a whole quad done before and it holds up really good and looks badass.  you can even use the roll on stuff. and now it comes in all kinds of crazy colors

I'd hate to see the driveway after plowing. lol

so i was wrong its not a egr its air injection. 

has spark will pop off when at idle but wont run. and when i give it full throttle blows smoke smells like raw fuel will run wide open. pulled factory carb back apart. and its spotless. double checked all idle circuit passages and they are clear. going to reinstall factory carb. same issue. with mech's advice I stuck a piece of vacuum line on the two ports on intake to rule out an air leak. and what do you know it idled like crap but its a start hopefully with some tuning it will run 

thanks mech!

ill post again when i get it sorted

will check.  im glad i found a forum that everyone wants to help each other instead of making fun of people. ive been kawi master certified for years and sometimes you just need someone else's thoughts to nudge you in the right direction.  thanks will respond after i check it out some more.

compression is at 200psi which seems high

the only vacuum lines go from intake runner to fuel pump and from intake to egr. 

also pulled inspection plug and cam cover to verified timing

improper shock adjustment can cause a camber problem. so don't forget all suspension components affect tire angels. 

so who wants to help figure out a no start on rzr 170

brought to me.  brakes don't work bleeder screw snapped off caliper in rear. went to remove and bleeder ripped threads out of caliper. so i need a $300 part for that.

wont run unless WOT. fuel pump works. tried cleaning original carb. that didnt work. tried a cheapo carb that didnt work. tried fresh fuel. new plug.  spark seems to be weak but everything test ok according to the manual, did valve adjustment nothing seems to help.

doesnt help that when i got it there was 4inches of mud on the motor and the cooling fan was clogged. any direction to go would be helpful thanks.

personally  i would remove oil pressure sensor and hook up gauge before continuing.  You don't want to find out the hard way you aren't making ang oil pressure. plus it will rule out if the pressure sensor is working

just wondering if i pay the thirty dollars how soon will i be able to access the manuals?

did you put all factory air box pieces back in? honda is terrible about messing with the airbox.

thats what i was worried about.  ill find manual thanks

2004 Bombardier Outlander 330 does anyone know if you have to split cases to get to the stator? Have a costumer who wants a quote but from the parts diagram makes it look like stator is in the cases. is any one familiar with this machine?