Quantcast
Jump to content

Params_sweden

Members
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Params_sweden

  1. @Gwbarm Thanks! I thought so as well, but this carb copy is most definitely produced from the original blueprints, all of the parts are interchangeable as in I actually took the bottom half from the copy and mounted it on the original, perfect fit (original had the drain screw totally stuck). I guess most copies aren't that exact @Mech Thanks! I guess we will just use the ATV and see if this happens again 40 hours down the line... Hopefully it lasts 🙏 Yeah I was lucky that the carb copy was an exact replica, but obviously something really important is differing between them. Well, another problem solved, ATV running better than ever, thanks for your input once again everyone!
  2. I cleaned the original carb in a ultrasonic bath and rebuilt it as well by the way! I used the float, float needle, pilot jet needle and diaphragm from the china carb. The original carb makes SO MUCH DIFFERENCE, the engine works very well now. With the China carb it made a lot of backfiring, always had to warm it up with choke and stuff like that. We have about -5c outside, and she firing right up without issue. I have compared the original and china carb, everything really looks exactly the same! It must be some of the internal "drillings" that makes a lot of difference, jets and everything are exactly the same. Very happy
  3. Hi guys, took some time to get the coil, because I ordered it to an old address of mine. I installed the other day, and guess what, it fired right up! It was the coil once again. The new coil is a bit below spec on the secondary, but gives a good visible spark. I will test the "broken" coil again today because when I removed it I noticed that the cable going to the spark plug was a bit loose, just to make sure. @Gwbarm I think you're right about the moose, I did a bit of searching and couldn't find pictures of other Bayous (1994) with the moose! Surely, the moose must've greatly increased sales in Sweden Anyway, a theory of mine, the coil is mounted around 10cm from the cylinder where it might get a lot of heat, especially since the engine is often running too hot. Could that be causing the issue?
  4. I've checked the ignition coil (IC) resistances, both within spec but a bit on the lower end. I've compared with the measurements from when the IC was new, and both primary and secondary are about 10%-20% lower now. I also did a quick spark test on a bench (by the instructions in my other post), with just the coil, battery and spark plug, and the spark is very weak compared to a couple of months ago when I last did it. The spark plug is new, that was the first thing I tried changing before doing anything else the other week I ordered an ignition coil earlier today, cost 30EUR, hopefully it will arrive this week. I remember that the old ignition coil also acted in a similar way, it made super weak sparks, it had resistance although it was out of spec. Maybe some electric component is damaging the coils. I'll try to wait until the new IC arrives, and hope it's within spec (it's a lottery with these..), before jumping to conclusions. It doesn't spark at all when I crank like crazy There's a good flow of fuel when I unscrew the carb drain, and I also checked the float and the little spring assisted needle when it was disassembled. I could've missed something of course, but the spark situation really feels similar to last time.
  5. I have gone through the carb after watching a rebuild video for the KLF300 '95 (link below), no issues there as far as I can tell, looked clean and well functioning. However, when I checked the spark again it appeared MUCH more erratic and weak, and it didn't spark at all for many engine revs. Battery is charged and has good voltage. My next step is to test the ignition coil like @Mech instructed in my previous post, and see if it gives spark on the bench. Yeah it really looks good, both the shape, build and color 🤩 Kawasaki did some great choices with this exact revision of the Bayou! The moose is the cherry on top, it's actually the decals that Kawasaki chose for it which is funny since Sweden is well known for it's mooses Rebuild video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJVXOJGK1XY
  6. Hi! I got my KLF300 running again with your help a couple of months ago, at that time it was the ignition coil that had failed. It has been in use since then without issues until two weeks ago. When the new issue showed I was going at about 10km/h and it suddenly slowed to a halt. I started it again after that with choke and I drove it 400 meters and parked. Next time it was really hard to start, and since it was low on gas I thought that was the problem. It didn't get any better with a full tank, so I assumed it was the cold weather, and adjusted the pilot slightly. After that it I actually got it started again with full choke and some slight gas, I drove about 300 meters and then it slowed down to a halt again. After that, it hasn't started again. The compression is 165psi. The spark has good intensity, the ATV has functioned before with the same spark "intensity"/light. I *assume* that it has gas as well, there is definitely gas on the spark plug when I remove it I have checked the carburetor slightly, the float works, diaphragm looks ok, but I haven't disassembled it to really look for dust and such in all the small places. My theory right now is that it might've been some dust in the gas tank that went into the system, it's just a theory I'm thankful for all the help and pointers I can get, don't hesitate / Pär, Sweden
  7. Thanks for your clarifications @Mech, I've adjusted the carb. Now the bike is starting right up and stays in a stable idle! When the motor is still cold I have to use the choke to start driving, just to get it moving, and when I slow down to a halt the first time during a "driving session" it dies *once*, I start it up again and it's working perfectly. It's always the same procedure now, probably a carb issue, but at least it's totally reliable You can notice that the carb is a bit off when stopping, the RPM goes a bit too low, and then catches up to the idle pace - when the motor is cold during the first stop this causes the motor to stop I think, because the RPM goes too low that one time. It's a working ATV now, but I'll try to fix it so it runs perfectly / Pär
  8. Good morning I've tried to adjust the pilot screw back and forth a couple of times now when the ATV is warmed up, with some success, it starts and runs quite reliably but I think the screws are totally wrong since I didn't notice much difference when messing around with the pilot and lost count. I'll try adjusting it later today again.. I have a question though, should I have the mixture screw at the lowest point i.e. no extra gas at all? When I set it at that point I can't start the ATV at all like there's no gas going in, it's surprising to me because I though that the carb should have a "minimum idle gas" and that the screw would just add on top of that 🤔 I'm asking because I'm trying to understand if I should have the mixture screw at like a low setting or completely screwed out when initially adjusting the pilot screw. / Pär
  9. I'll do this procedure tomorrow, thanks! Is the idle speed screw the same as the "pilot screw" in the attached screenshot from the manual? / Pär
  10. Thanks, an air leak would make sense! Today I fired it up again and surprisingly it worked much better, the only difference was that I put some more gas in the tank, maybe it was almost running out yesterday... 🙈 I adjusted the idle screw a bit until I got an idle RPM that was ok, however the idle is not entirely "stable" in my opinion, nothing extreme but it's misfiring at times and acting slightly weird. Note that I find it slightly off, no extreme reving like in many recordings you can find of "bad" idle. I sprayed CRC 5-56 at the carb rubber connection to the engine, on both sides and everywhere, it didn't affect the idle. 🤔 I'll add recordings of the idle when it's warmed up, and also a recording when I take short ride speeding up, stopping etc. Didn't think of recording the cold start and idle Let me know what you think of the "clonk" noises etc, maybe it's to be expected? The carb and CDI is aftermarket btw, chinese ofc / Pär driving_about.mp4 idle_bayou.mp4
  11. Hi, my KLF300 Bayou 1994 from my other post can now ignite and run for a little while. It's running very rough, the idle is way off, I have to use both choke and gas to get it in a somewhat "idle" state otherwise it dies. Let's fix it I think that the first priority is to get the idle stable, right now I can't get it to idle at all, it's either too high or too low and dying off after a few seconds. The setting of the idle screw doesn't seem to stabilize it, it's either too low or too high, if I get it between those states it's only running for a few seconds before dying. The ATV could idle and run last summer btw. What do you think I should do next? / Pär
  12. Thanks! I'm starting another thread for my Bayou, she's starting but the idle is a bit rough to say the least ☺️ No video in this thread, saving that for the new one.. / Over and out, Pär
  13. @Gwbarm Yeah feels good! I bought an aftermarket China part from a Swedish seller, unfortunately it's a no-name product, when I got it it didn't match the image on the sellers site. Here's a link https://www.merafritid.se/tändspole-kawasaki . It came without spark plug cap, the "ignition wire" has a black outer rubber and a white center.
  14. @Pod It was the ignition coil all along, came to the conclusion in my other post yesterday This NGK spark plug is now mounted and the spark is blue and consistent.
  15. And she started right away Thanks for your invaluable help every single one of you 🙏 I learned a lot in the process, I'm way more confident when it comes to simple troubleshooting of these things now. Most important lesson could probably be found in that the "old" coil seemed to work judging from the resistance tests, but when tested in isolation it didn't give a spark. Special thanks for your insights @Mech, really appreciate knowing more about the theory behind it. I'll send a video of her running tomorrow for a nice wrap up of this thread. Will also mark one of the posts describing how to bench test the ignition coil as the solution for clarity. /Pär
  16. I think that many of the sparks happened between camera frames, so the sparks look very inconsistent on the video. It looks better irl. As for the spark plug, it's only been mounted for about 15 hours (with the engine running) on the ATV, maybe the fouling is a sign of another issue? I took a new spark plug and also mounted the 5kOhm cap, and made a new video. Looks better right? /Pär spark480p.mov
  17. And we have a spark ✅ I have to get some fresh gas before starting it up though The coil primary resistance is higher than the spec, any clues about how that affects the system? I'm thinking that the higher resistance maybe should be matched with a spark plug cap with a resistance that is lower than the spec. (I have little to none knowledge about electricity) So excited to get her running!! /Pär spark.mp4
  18. Today the locally bought coil arrived, and this one has the primary out of spec and the secondary in spec.. Primary resistance 4.7ohm, secondary 11.3kOhm. It's produced in China, it's not the same one as was mounted on the bike judging by it's size and material choices. I will hopefully have time to try it out today or tomorrow on the Bayou, hope it's this simple 🙏 / Pär
  19. Fascinating, that would make sense, I'll do some reading on this just to get a better understanding Mech! Seems like there's a weak spark epidemic going on
  20. Just to make sure, did you set your multimeter to a high enough setting like 20kOhms when doing the test? I noted that my multimeter just says 0 if I test something with higher resistance than what I've set the multimeter on, like trying a 5kOhm spark plug with the 200 ohm setting I'm waiting for the parts to arrive, I'll get the local spark plug on Tuesday and the China one in two weeks. Quite excited to see if they at least are close to the spec! I downloaded some manuals for other similar 90s ATVs, all of them had similar resistance specs for the IC, about a third of what the Bayou has... seems like the Bayou is and odd bird as I speculated about before. Really wonder why the Bayou IC has such a high resistance compared to other ATVs, if someone with knowledge about these kind of electrical parts has a theory I'd be delighted to hear it! / Pär
  21. Np, I'll measure all my coils as soon as I get them, hopefully they match the OEM specs. Seems like the 1994 Bayou ignition coil specs differ from many other ATVs with 12v ignition, the few specs that I found have much lower and almost identical resistance on both primary and secondary, about half of what the Bayou has. It might give a hint to why the Bayou seems to have a lot of electrical issues, judging by the amount of threads about it, unusual specs and sensitive system overall? Just a thought.. 🤔 /Pär
  22. Hi, Pär from south Sweden I have a '94 Kawasaki KLF300 Bayou in pretty good condition, however she's a bit grumpy right now and I'm doing my best to get her running again with the help of you and Youtube. I'll make sure to contribute as much as I can, I'm not a mechanic, but my troubleshooting process will in itself be worth documenting for future reference 😎 Here's a photo from last summer a couple of weeks after I got her, so far she's been going for 900 hours, so quite a lot more to give! / Pär, Sweden
  23. @Gwbarm I only have one ignition coil, however I have 2 carbs (original and china) and 4 CDIs (1 original, 3 china). I'll rebuild the original carb and mount it when I finally get her to start again
  24. Okay, I ordered 2 coils, one from a local dealer (the one without spark plug cap, 40USD) and one from China (with spark plug cap, 10USD). Hopefully I'll get the local coil next week, delivery from China will take three weeks. For reference I took screenshots of the units I ordered, I'll leave links here as well. When I get them I'll measure the resistance and post it here. Fingers crossed that they will get my Bayou running https://www.merafritid.se/tändspole-kawasaki from Sweden https://www.ebay.com/itm/393606999077 from China / Pär
  25. I went out and did another test run, this time actually following your instructions here, jumper from coil negative to sparkplug (w/o coil cap), then jumper from spark plug to battery negative. Coil positive jumper scraping battery positive... not a sign of a spark, tried two spark plugs just to be sure. Hopefully my drawing is clear enough, test #1 is described in my previous message, test #2 is my latest test in this message.. / Pär
×
×
  • Create New...